Learning About Husqvarna 562xp's .. The Saga begins. (MUCH more to come BTW)

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Had to stop and snap a picture from the "office". Don't have much to think about except saws after hour 12! So thought up the next iteration of the 562 project. Starting from a blown up early version.
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Bad bearings. What happens when the nylon cage goes away??
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I wish SKF would make a stronger bearing cage, on the ones I have seen the bearings look perfect... maybe the heat melts the plastic bearing cages... So far I have only seen this on the clutch side... Aren't the pto side bearings wider?
Hey weimedog I need a driver for the transfer covers , not sure what they call that type . Kind of a torx with a post in the middle. Size?

I have one with a air leak so I need to get the cover off and put in a new o ring. I need more bar oil so was wondering if anybody has modded the oil pump on a 562? Maybe a 576 oil pump would work.
I run 28 in bars on mine the Douglas fir bark dust and pitch require a lot of bar oil.

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I need more bar oil so was wondering if anybody has modded the oil pump on a 562? Maybe a 576 oil pump would work.

I saw SOMEWHERE (maybe here on AS, but can't find the post) where a person had modified the 562XP pump to increase oil output. As supplied, the oiler output is stingy, even on a 20" bar with nice clean oil ports.

Anyway, in the oiler mod post, they disassembled the pump & removed the pump shaft (the part that gets turned by the worm gear). You'll see a large diameter flat surface that rotates against the oiler output adjustment screw shaft. That flat appearing surface is actually slightly angled, so that as the oiler shaft rotates, it's moving in & out ever so slightly (at a high speed), pumping oil to the bar.

By increasing the angle of the end of this oiler shaft, you increase the amount of oil pumped per rotation & increase oiler output. See the red line on the attached picture. This is a VERY EXAGGERATED picture of what I'm trying to explain. The original poster removed the pump shaft, and increased the angle by just a few degrees (by rubbing the angled end of the pump shaft against emery cloth on a flat plate.

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Thanks for the tip JJ, I have reground an oil pump shaft and will run it tomorrow in some thick barked fir and cedar. ... Wonder how much weight difference in the 6 screw cases..? Ya getting the limiter strap and ground lead in place is a must before putting the cylinder on. I found out the hard way too...lol On the first versions of these 562s the washers and spacers on the muffler bolts gave me grief. Make sure there in place. The dumbbell spacers on the head bolts like to get lost too... sigh
I'm looking forward to checking out your next vid Weimedog keep them coming. What are the auto tune test programs running? I need one bad...

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Well I reground the oil pump shaft on one of my 562s, I must have taken to much off... It only uses 2 /3 of the oil now... sigh ... Maybe it needs another washer and the flat on the impeller end made .050 longer . Back when I used to run ported 262s the oil pumps were modded for more flow , the oil ran out before the gas. The 262s were great for bucking on bad ground.

I had to pack out my 562 on Monday , when working on bigger trees it would get hot and ping a very little... It was hard to restart, I though that I had a bearing going out.
it turns out my custom base gasket was not thick enough. The piston was just expanding enough when hot to just touch the squish band on the intake side... just enough to make it shinny . No damage to the piston that I can see. The ring is still movable ... If you ask me these 562s need .025 clearance running them the way I do... This was one of my early ones I had .020 taken off the base but with no squish band cut , on the bench it showed 20thou squish clearance, it's not enough on these.

I'm going to try to match the intake and strato timing on this jug ..
is this the right direction to give it more torque at the top end? Theses stratos give me brain pain...
Wondering if I should grind on the piston self ...? Or Could I raise the piston intake arch?

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Hey weimedog I need a driver for the transfer covers , not sure what they call that type . Kind of a torx with a post in the middle. Size?

I have one with a air leak so I need to get the cover off and put in a new o ring.

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They are tamper proof torx. Should be available at any auto parts store or decent hardware store. Not sure of the size but most sets should include it and only cost $15 or so.

The o ring isn't available separate so you'll just have to pull the cover and dirko it
 
Ya I figured it out... I just went to Napa and got a set... I guess if you don't use the o ring one of the screws needs to be shortened.. I have a 6 screw case that I'll swap everything over to. I put new mains and a seal in it. I really enjoy working on these 562 , they have there little tricks though... I hope soon they will have an app for the auto tune so they can be checked out in the field. An Android app would be great. When I dream I like to dream big... lol..
 
Ya I figured it out... I just went to Napa and got a set... I guess if you don't use the o ring one of the screws needs to be shortened.. I have a 6 screw case that I'll swap everything over to. I put new mains and a seal in it. I really enjoy working on these 562 , they have there little tricks though... I hope soon they will have an app for the auto tune so they can be checked out in the field. An Android app would be great. When I dream I like to dream big... lol..
How about dreaming about an app where YOU can tweak the timing and fuel mixtures?? Seems like its just driven off tpi and some feedback rpm & possible temps.
 
Has anyone ever figured out why the 562s have the dumbbell spacers on the head bolts? Oh and I have been trying to grasp the strato port timing... With the transfer cover off what do I time off? Is the box above the piston pin just there to lighten the piston or is it part of the strato? On the intake side the strato ports are an angle as they open. I'm just trying to figure out how to time the stratos duration...

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Waking up an old thread, what is the purpose of the cylinder spacers? @weimedog have you ran many 550s and if so what was your opinion of them as compared to the 350/346xp. Would love to see a video of your over these.
 
I really don't know why they have those spacers. I can only speculate it has to do with the heat they have designed into the system and those spacers might allow for a more consistent clamping pressure over the temperature changes. There has to be a differential in temps from the exhaust side to the intake side....and the flange thickness on the transfer ports where they seal to the cases isn't that large so maybe the engineers found the solution to keeping things sealed up over the service life with those spacers.....just a guess.

BTW I did run into a brand new saw where the case halves didn't match perfectly and I had to go back to a standard gasket and machining the cylinder for my mods...there was a measurable .005 difference. A video will follow. The stock base gasket will reliably seal that but a "goo gasket" makes me nervous so on that saw I trimmed the cylinder base .030 and put a base gasket back in.. :(
 
If you have access to machining tools I prefer to run a base gasket when possible. Especially if you plan on tearing it down again in the near future. If I had a lathe like yours all my saws would probably be decked and either a popup or band cut.
 
If you have access to machining tools I prefer to run a base gasket when possible. Especially if you plan on tearing it down again in the near future. If I had a lathe like yours all my saws would probably be decked and either a popup or band cut.

That's essentially what I do.
 
I missed out on a leblond lathe a couple weeks ago at an auction. final bid was $1000, if I had had my fun money saved up I would have bought it.
 
Good thing is I know the guy who bought it, so I may see if he wants to sell it later on. If nothing else I'm sure others will show up.
 
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