Log Splitter Fluid, Filter and Crane

[ETpilot]

A few months back I purchased a used Huskee 27T log splitter. I've come to realize that this splitter has the filter on the suction side rather than the return side. It appears to have been manufactured this way as others I have seen have the same setup. So, if doable, is there any value in changing this setup to a return side setup? As it is, changing the filter is a pain as fluid will flow out. I am thinking of adding a shutoff valve. The fluid in the unit looks clean n was recently changed according to the previous owner. Can I save the fluid and reuse if it looks clean? Can different fluids be mixed? I have no idea what fluid was used any idea what I should use? The filter on the unit looks like it has never been changed.

I am going to fabricate an in feed n out feed table to help manage the splitting. Anyone have a free standing or attached crane, that may work with this splitter, to lift heavy rounds? If yes, please post a picture. I have some heavy rounds I will be splitting n I prefer to work with unit horizontal rather than vertical. Thanks

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Wonder why they went on the suction side? VERY good idea to change that setup.

"IF" it was really changed and clean you can. If you plan on keeping the splitter I myself would change the fluid out if any question is in your mind. How many gallons is it?. Any local farm store will have hydraulic oil. Most tractor/equipment dealers have it as well and will be hy/tran oil and such. More expensive but as always it is supposed to be better. I used Case IH Hytran in mine.

On the valve,Little to no pressure there so a good ball valve should be fine, any of the box stores or plumbing supply houses will have them. Just remember to open it back up!

I put an electric winch on my mounted crane and it does a great job for me.

 

[mga]

i agree with kevin. change it to the return side.

my only guess as to why manufacturers would do that would be to protect their asses from warranty work in case some one decides to throw dirt inside their hyd tank.

it's a closed system, and it should always be clean, but the filter won't hurt. return side is the way to go...low pressure easy and to get at. but, i have a question: why all that rust on there? you guys use road salt down there?

 

[lone wolf]

i agree with kevin. change it to the return side.

my only guess as to why manufacturers would do that would be to protect their asses from warranty work in case some one decides to throw dirt inside their hyd tank.

it's a closed system, and it should always be clean, but the filter won't hurt. return side is the way to go...low pressure easy and to get at. but, i have a question: why all that rust on there? you guys use road salt down there?

They must want it to brake so you buy parts because they must be aware of all this.

 

[mga]

They must want it to brake so you buy parts because they must be aware of all this.

true.

when that filter gets sucked into the pump...........lol

 

[Old Goat]

Even with a closed system you are going to get little pieces of metal and hose material due to wear and tear. Dirt will work its way in somehow, it always does. I can understand a suction line filter in theory to protect the pump, but as the filter plugs up with time it may become an issue. Do you have a strainer in the outlet of the hydraulic fluid tank? Maybe the idea was to save money and eliminate a strainer and and the filter is doing double duty.

If you leave it as it is you will need to be quick when you change the filter or you will lose all of the fluid in your tank due to gravity, because of where the filter is installed. If you are going to go to the effort of installing a ball valve you might as well just make sure you have a suction strainer in the tank and install a new filter setup in the return line as others have suggested. Install it as high as possible in the system with the filter hanging down (opposite of the position with your current filter). This will help reduce fluid loss and mess when you change the filter.

Hydraulic fluid from a farm store or auto parts store will work. One of my three splitters calls for automatic transmission fluid. It will be cheapest to buy it in a 5 gallon bucket from one of the farm stores like TSC. It will go on sale, just wait.

 

[Old Goat]

The fluid in the unit looks clean n was recently changed according to the previous owner. Can I save the fluid and reuse if it looks clean? Can different fluids be mixed? I have no idea what fluid was used any idea what I should use? The filter on the unit looks like it has never been changed.
View attachment 399585

It sounds like you have some doubt about the fluid that is in it. Due to the rust on your unit it looks like it has been exposed to the elements. I would wonder about water in the oil. I would spend the money and use fresh fluid. Here are some possibilities for oil and what you are looking at for cost

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Heavy-Duty-Tractor-Hydraulic-and-Transmission-Fluid/16213442
http://www.thetoolworkshop.com/multitractractorfluidhydraulicoil.aspx
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/travellerreg;-all-season-hydraulic-oil-iso-46-5-gal
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/sto...raulic--transmission-fluid-5-gal?cm_vc=-10005

From what I have been able to find out via google your splitter takes 6.5 gallons of fluid.

 

[ETpilot]

Thanks all for the replies. This splitter is mechanically sound but cosmetically looks bad. I looked past the rust when I bought it. Not sure how it got all rusted. No salt on roads in my area. I plan to repainted it later. The valve developed a leak after purchase. I resealed it with a seal kit. So far the splitter has been working great. The fluid it has looks clean n no water. I am going with the suggestions to change it with new fliud.

I am going to see if I can change the filter to the return side. Not sure if it has a strainer, so may have to add one. I will also add a shutoff valve to the suction side for any maintenance issues. Is the filter element the same for the suction side and return side? Or will I be looking at a different element for the return side?

 

[Erik B]

Even with a closed system you are going to get little pieces of metal and hose material due to wear and tear. Dirt will work its way in somehow, it always does. I can understand a suction line filter in theory to protect the pump, but as the filter plugs up with time it may become an issue. Do you have a strainer in the outlet of the hydraulic fluid tank? Maybe the idea was to save money and eliminate a strainer and and the filter is doing double duty.

If you leave it as it is you will need to be quick when you change the filter or you will lose all of the fluid in your tank due to gravity, because of where the filter is installed. If you are going to go to the effort of installing a ball valve you might as well just make sure you have a suction strainer in the tank and install a new filter setup in the return line as others have suggested. Install it as high as possible in the system with the filter hanging down (opposite of the position with your current filter). This will help reduce fluid loss and mess when you change the filter.

Hydraulic fluid from a farm store or auto parts store will work. One of my three splitters calls for automatic transmission fluid. It will be cheapest to buy it in a 5 gallon bucket from one of the farm stores like TSC. It will go on sale, just wait.

@Old Goat When I changed the filter on my 25 ton Speeco, I tipped it up so the tongue was in the air and the foot of the beam was on the floor. I didn't lose more than maybe a cup or so. Good idea to put an oil drain pan under the filter when you remove the filter. Picture I posted here got lost with the hack. Erik B

 

[mga]

Even with a closed system you are going to get little pieces of metal and hose material due to wear and tear. Dirt will work its way in somehow, it always does. I can understand a suction line filter in theory to protect the pump, but as the filter plugs up with time it may become an issue. Do you have a strainer in the outlet of the hydraulic fluid tank? Maybe the idea was to save money and eliminate a strainer and and the filter is doing double duty.

If you leave it as it is you will need to be quick when you change the filter or you will lose all of the fluid in your tank due to gravity, because of where the filter is installed. If you are going to go to the effort of installing a ball valve you might as well just make sure you have a suction strainer in the tank and install a new filter setup in the return line as others have suggested. Install it as high as possible in the system with the filter hanging down (opposite of the position with your current filter). This will help reduce fluid loss and mess when you change the filter.

Hydraulic fluid from a farm store or auto parts store will work. One of my three splitters calls for automatic transmission fluid. It will be cheapest to buy it in a 5 gallon bucket from one of the farm stores like TSC. It will go on sale, just wait.

problem with a strainer is you have to have access and being at the bottom of the tank means you have to drain the oil every time.

having the filter on the return line catches anything that might have become loose in the system after the pump.

the oil, being filtered, going into the tank should be clean, hence, no need for the strainer.

 

[wndwlkr]

problem with a strainer is you have to have access and being at the bottom of the tank means you have to drain the oil every time.

having the filter on the return line catches anything that might have become loose in the system after the pump.

the oil, being filtered, going into the tank should be clean, hence, no need for the strainer.

Maybe you should just take the strainer off the oil pump in your car & see how that works out for ya ! Hello wake up & think about it for a minute. Take the filter out of your coffee maker & just put one on you toilet seat. You get my point !

 

[greenskeeper]

I bought my Huskee 27 ton back in 2000. Has the filter on the suction side. I have never changed the filter or fluid in 15 years of splitting. Seems like the manufacturer knew how to build a splitter.

 

[wndwlkr]

Even with a closed system you are going to get little pieces of metal and hose material due to wear and tear. Dirt will work its way in somehow, it always does. I can understand a suction line filter in theory to protect the pump, but as the filter plugs up with time it may become an issue. Do you have a strainer in the outlet of the hydraulic fluid tank? Maybe the idea was to save money and eliminate a strainer and and the filter is doing double duty.

If you leave it as it is you will need to be quick when you change the filter or you will lose all of the fluid in your tank due to gravity, because of where the filter is installed. If you are going to go to the effort of installing a ball valve you might as well just make sure you have a suction strainer in the tank and install a new filter setup in the return line as others have suggested. Install it as high as possible in the system with the filter hanging down (opposite of the position with your current filter). This will help reduce fluid loss and mess when you change the filter.

Hydraulic fluid from a farm store or auto parts store will work. One of my three splitters calls for automatic transmission fluid. It will be cheapest to buy it in a 5 gallon bucket from one of the farm stores like TSC. It will go on sale, just wait.

This is a right to the point fact, nailed it. I have splitters that have been in service for more than 30 years without a filter, just a strainer on the suction side. If you don't protect the pump, your just up that creek! A big percentage of the motors that run these pumps don't have filters on them, just put a dab of sand in that motor & see how your splitting goes. You can put the sand in my hydraulic tank & I'll keep on going. We're not building a space shuttle ! Hope this helps.

 

[Old Goat]

The strainer is made from metal mesh that will filter larger particles. It is not going to catch the smaller stuff. If it ever plugs up you have some serious problems somewhere else in your system. Not all splitters have them installed in the tank. Looking closely at the outlet of your tank it seems that you do not have one. It would appear as a reducing bushing with a pipe or a hose threaded into it. I would assume that that is the reason for the filter in the suction line. It looks as if even the newer Huskee 27 ton units have the filter in the suction line. One change in the newer Huskee is that the outlet is higher on the tank, probably has a pickup tube on the inside that is drawing the oil from close to the bottom. As a result the filter is turned right side up. Easier to change, less waste of oil.


I would change the filter if your splitter were mine just because of the condition of the filter and it being a secondhand (or third, or forth) unite. You only have the word of the previous owner. Change the filter when you change the oil and you will be good for several years.


This is what a suction strainer would look like. The mesh part of the strainer is installed inside the tank.

 

[timbrjackrussel]

The strainer is made from metal mesh that will filter larger particles. It is not going to catch the smaller stuff. If it ever plugs up you have some serious problems somewhere else in your system. Not all splitters have them installed in the tank. Looking closely at the outlet of your tank it seems that you do not have one. It would appear as a reducing bushing with a pipe or a hose threaded into it. I would assume that that is the reason for the filter in the suction line. It looks as if even the newer Huskee 27 ton units have the filter in the suction line. One change in the newer Huskee is that the outlet is higher on the tank, probably has a pickup tube on the inside that is drawing the oil from close to the bottom. As a result the filter is turned right side up. Easier to change, less waste of oil.


I would change the filter if your splitter were mine just because of the condition of the filter and it being a secondhand (or third, or forth) unite. You only have the word of the previous owner. Change the filter when you change the oil and you will be good for several years.


This is what a suction strainer would look like. The mesh part of the strainer is installed inside the tank.

View attachment 399875

I have a 100 mesh spin on strainer that I added to my tractor. I also use a strainer like the one that you show on my splitter. It has a by-pass in the end of it in case it were to be plugged. A 10 micron return line filter is also on the splitter.
Perhaps it is a strainer spin on type.

 

[timbrjackrussel]

Return filter and a suction intake screen up wards on an angle. Drain on bottom of the tank as well.

 

[ETpilot]

Well thanks. Lots of info here to consider. Most of the splitters I have looked at have the filter on the return. Not sure why this is a different installation. I am going to see if I remove the pipe nipple, can I add a strainer and shutoff valve then move the filter to the return. If not doable I will add a shutoff valve and leave the filter as is. This will make filter change much easier. This filter is long overdue for change.

You should have seen the tank filler plug. It was encased in dirt and the vent hole was pluged. That was the first thing I cleaned. I am slowly giving new life to this splitter. Surprisingly this splitter is not too old. According to the valve number, the splitter was assembled in 2009, provided this is the original valve.

 

[timbrjackrussel]

Well thanks. Lots of info here to consider. Most of the splitters I have looked at have the filter on the return. Not sure why this is a different installation. I am going to see if I remove the pipe nipple, can I add a strainer and shutoff valve then move the filter to the return. If not doable I will add a shutoff valve and leave the filter as is. This will make filter change much easier. This filter is long overdue for change.

You should have seen the tank filler plug. It was encased in dirt and the vent hole was pluged. That was the first thing I cleaned. I am slowly giving new life to this splitter. Surprisingly this splitter is not too old. According to the valve number, the splitter was assembled in 2009, provided this is the original valve.

Check to see if it is a spin on screen or a 10 or 50 micron return line filter first. You can leave that filter base on the bottom of the tank (add a large ball valve) and put a spin on screen filter to protect the pump intake and then add a return line 10 micron filter with a 15 PSI by-pass to the valve out to the tank.

 

[timbrjackrussel]

A few months back I purchased a used Huskee 27T log splitter. I've come to realize that this splitter has the filter on the suction side rather than the return side. It appears to have been manufactured this way as others I have seen have the same setup. So, if doable, is there any value in changing this setup to a return side setup? As it is, changing the filter is a pain as fluid will flow out. I am thinking of adding a shutoff valve. The fluid in the unit looks clean n was recently changed according to the previous owner. Can I save the fluid and reuse if it looks clean? Can different fluids be mixed? I have no idea what fluid was used any idea what I should use? The filter on the unit looks like it has never been changed.

I am going to fabricate an in feed n out feed table to help manage the splitting. Anyone have a free standing or attached crane, that may work with this splitter, to lift heavy rounds? If yes, please post a picture. I have some heavy rounds I will be splitting n I prefer to work with unit horizontal rather than vertical. Thanks


View attachment 399585

The coupling that is welded into the bottom of the tank will be too small to put an in tank suction screen in.

 

[muddstopper]

I have worked with lots of big specialized equipment over the years. They all had one thing in common on the hydraulics, a suction srtainer and a return filter. Some even had secondary filters inline before some of the individual valves. Tanks always have a screen under the cap. Even with all this protection, I still seen expensive solenoid valves stuck because of trash in the system. Return filters can and do bypass, especially if they are getting old and havent been changed in a while. I have built several splitters, dump trailers and other hydraulic systems. I always use a suction strainer and a return filter. The suction strainer might not be changed ever, (on a wood splitter) and they dont cost a lot of money, its just cheap insurance and peace of mind to me. After saying that, I have changed hundreds of suction strainers and saw all kinds of nasties sticking to the outside of those strainers, thats stuff the return filters miss. Return filters are mandatory to clean the fluid an catch the pieces of oring, seals, little bits of metal that comes from the valves, cylinders and the wear of the pump gears. Keeps the small stuff from getting into the tank and the suction strainer gets the big stuff.

I also wouldnt depend on a 5gal bucket of oil being clean just because the can has never been opened. I have taken the top off many a 5gal pail of oil after just pouring it into the machine, and very rarely is the bottom of the bucket clean with only a oily film. There is always some sort of gunk in the bottom of the bucket. 55gal drums aint no better.