log tape repair

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goatchin

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Cracked my log tape yesterday when I released it and caught sideways between two logs, gave it a tug and pop it went. Caught the slack b4 it could unwind. Around 16" from hook. Racked my brain rest of day on how to fix for time being, thought I had small rivets but didn't.

Ended up finding a pack of small fold over brads like what's on the back of yellow manila envelopes. Overlapped tape an inch, drilled two small holes through tape, 2nd smallest bit in your typical set, can't remember exactly. Slid some heat shrink tune over one end and then out together with 2 brads, folded flat then hammerd flat. Slid tube over and heated it. Low and behold it still rewound! But noticed overlap edges would wear through so gave a light wrap of electrical tape and still reminds. Marked the 8'-7", 9-7", 10-7", 11-7", and 12-7" marks with sharpy to remind it's a inch short and marked case too.

I know most won't mess with splicing but figured I would share bc of being only an inch off
 

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I have an extra tape in my back pack.
Its handy for me to keep a few lengths of a broken tape so the splice keeps the measurement true. Then I still have a back up. I learnt my lesson the hard way. Like what northman is talking about. IDK
..maybe they will call me back this year...haha
 
The lost time repairing a tape costs more than the $10 replacement. I keep several in the forwarder. I have found that the first 2ft of tape takes the brunt of abuse. A lot of the guys around here, including me, put a single wrap of electrical tape around those 2ft the same as you would wrap a baseball bat. It also keeps the nail pointed in the right direction and out of my butt when I get in the machine.
 
I tape the first ten inches and it works fine. That way I can still get a quick measurement on the small end of small logs (10" min at sawmill). I used to try rivets and even pieces of saw chain to fix the tape. Turns out just a few wraps of electrical will hold a busted tape for months. I usually start at the break then go four inches or so either way. I run a tape on each hip to save time reaching around and getting tangled up.
 
Worked out Well today. Only pain was that when I start walking out and am not past the tape it catches just enough to spring the hook loose, fine as long as I remember to draw it out some before I go. I may wrap it heavier there to make it stay out like a few of ya's have mentioned, definetly be quicker to grab.

Any idea if husqvarna or true blue Spencer tapes will fit the woodland cases? May end up getting one when I order from Bailey's next anyhow.
 
The woodland appears to be a shameless copy of the husky tape. I've used spencer refills in both husky and spencer tapes. The only difference I know of is the husky brand tape comes with its own end nail. It just so happens I prefer a horseshoe nail myself so I always went for the spencer.
 
I don't bother replacing busted refills since we have so many. I just grab a new one out of the cabinet and rebuild a pile of tapes when I have enough. I think we have about 40 but I haven't counted. We chew up the gears at least as often as we bust the blades.
 
The only time I've wrecked gears on a Spencer is when the tape breaks and I don't grab it in time. For me the casing gets so beat up the spool gets caught and won't turn in anymore. Yes I've bent them out but eventually they are a lost cause.
 
Weird. I'd bet that half of our failures are the gears. I wind them to come up tight at 70 ft so the operator can't walk off of the end of the tape pulling out to a chain for height measurements. I wonder if dudes are just leaning on the gears until they break? I'm gonna have to pay attention to the next few that come in, see if this isn't a training deficiency rather than a manufacturing one.
 
It's more likely free spooling on retrieval. Over speed on return plus that hard stop at the end. Particularly with the spring extra tight. It's another reason I tape the last 2ft. It slows the return and doesn't allow that slam stop at the nail.
 
Can't see how unwinding would hurt the gears, only going to coast to a stop, or hit the spring backwards. Mine have always sorta half unspooled.

Think ya might be on to something with the leaning on em, though a chain is only 66', you'd think that the extra 4' would be enough to back track a wee bit.
 
I can only get away with taping maybe 6 inches because I need to keep the zero uncovered on the D-Tape side. The spring isn't really *that* tight, it's just tight enough to protect the tail of the tape.
wonder if folks is grabbin the case and tuggin on it to unseat the nail, rather then grabbing the tape, or walking off the end and letting it pull the nail, can't be good for the gears to slam on em like that.
 
One thing you old-schoolers need to remember is that prior to about 2000 or so (I'm not sure when the change happened), the gears were made out of stamped steel, which sort of peened to sharp points as they aged. Newer units have sintered gears which break off with a sharp, clean brittle fracture, which immediately spin with spring tension into the next tooth and so on and so forth until you've chowdered the whole works all to hell. I've got a fleet of the new ones now as all of my old ones wore out years ago. I have discussed elsewhen having the middle gear 3D printed out of Delrin which I will do as soon as possible.

Meanwhilst -- good suggestions, all. I'll watch my guys and see if I can't figure out an operational way to prevent gear failure.
 
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