Long term experience with Poulan Pro 5020?

[Deleted member 83629]

im happy with mine its my beater saw its been through hell but runs good.

 

[Vibes]

I recommended one to a guy I had worked with a few years back. He bought a Craftsman refurb from Ebay. He's put up 3 years worth of firewood with it and as far as I know he's not had a problem. He also has a 9 years old Wildthing so I know he takes care of his tools.

 

[bikemike]

Correct, Spike came on and said he had one brought in with the crank broke off at the clutch. We asked for more info and never got any, it seems we don't know if it was abused with the chainbrake or if it was just one of those things.

Maybe I shouldn't have said any major problems and just said not many problems period??

Point of most owners being happy with them is still valid.

I agree that the saw is happiest with a 16" on it but then again most 50cc saws are. As far as not having enough ass to run the 20" I disagree.

My 46cc runs a 20inch all day and turns it in soft and hard wood no problem with a carlton full chisle

 

[heyduke]

it looks like a superior design to the husqvarna 455 which appears to use plastic for the bottom of the clamshell case. the 5020 uses metal, like an 029. i would agree with an earlier post that it would be a good idea to acquire a splined carb adjuster tool if you buy a 5020. my experience with recent poulans is that they need tuning before use, but the same thing is true of most saws. poor tuning could be the reason that jakewells' 5020 lacks "booty."

 

[zuren]

I took a quick walk around my property last night to get some measurements on trees that are down. The biggest is 19" in diameter and I think it is a cottonwood (I have a ton of them). Anything bigger is so rotten that I will just leave it for the woodpeckers. The rest of it is in the 12" diameter range.

Based on what everyone seems to say about the 5020, I would keep the 20" bar for the occasional big cut but it would probably be happier with an 18" bar, a muffler mod, and a good chain. I know a shorter bar and muffler mod on my 2025 woke it up. Based on the size of other trees that look like they are ready to come down, I wouldn't want anything much smaller than an 18".

So that being said, what would be the best 18" bar and chain combo for the 5020? My local Family Farm and Home has the saw with case for $199; same at TSC. The refurb. units on ebay are tempting but would like to have a case for it. It looks like a case alone runs ~$50.

Thanks!

 

[Chris-PA]

I believe that the PP4818 sold at HD is actually the same 50cc powerhead as the PP5020 but with an 18" bar.

 

[Deleted member 83629]

it looks like a superior design to the husqvarna 455 which appears to use plastic for the bottom of the clamshell case. the 5020 uses metal, like an 029. i would agree with an earlier post that it would be a good idea to acquire a splined carb adjuster tool if you buy a 5020. my experience with recent poulans is that they need tuning before use, but the same thing is true of most saws. poor tuning could be the reason that jakewells' 5020 lacks "booty."

mine is tuned so it 4 strokes out of the cut it runs smooth in the cut.

 

[heyduke]

mine is tuned so it 4 strokes out of the cut it runs smooth in the cut.

rule of thumb, use the shortest bar that works. you'll have more power and it's easier to keep the tip out of the dirt. on the other hand, i tend to stick with 20" bars. i carry a few extra 72dl chains that will work on any of the saws in the back of the truck. if i have to deal with bigger wood, i'll throw in a bigger saw with a 32" bar. for top handles i prefer a 12" bar. if i'm cutting something bigger than 10" diameter, send up a 70cc saw and i'll get the job done quickly.

 

[Deleted member 83629]

or grab my 590 with the 24 or even my poulan 330 with the 22''

 

[Modifiedmark]

I took a quick walk around my property last night to get some measurements on trees that are down. The biggest is 19" in diameter and I think it is a cottonwood (I have a ton of them). Anything bigger is so rotten that I will just leave it for the woodpeckers. The rest of it is in the 12" diameter range.

Based on what everyone seems to say about the 5020, I would keep the 20" bar for the occasional big cut but it would probably be happier with an 18" bar, a muffler mod, and a good chain. I know a shorter bar and muffler mod on my 2025 woke it up. Based on the size of other trees that look like they are ready to come down, I wouldn't want anything much smaller than an 18".

So that being said, what would be the best 18" bar and chain combo for the 5020? My local Family Farm and Home has the saw with case for $199; same at TSC. The refurb. units on ebay are tempting but would like to have a case for it. It looks like a case alone runs ~$50.

Thanks!

I went through about doing a muffler mod on the 5020 and there isn't much really to do to it. Its a open tin can muffler and about all you can do other then adding other outlets is to open up the hole under the deflector some. I did do that and it really didn't make much difference.

As to the 18" bar, you have to remember that a Husky 18" bar uses a 68DL chain so your not changing much going to a 18" on it.

That said depending on where your at, it might be easier to get 68DL chains. In that case just run the 20" till its shot then get the 18" and if you have any extra chains you can just shorten them up 2 links to match your new bar.

These guys rag on the Vanguard chain but if you know the correct way to keep the rakers filed down right, it will cut just fine till you wear it out.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I believe that the PP4818 sold at HD is actually the same 50cc powerhead as the PP5020 but with an 18" bar.

I think your right on that. ..

 

[bikemike]

it looks like a superior design to the husqvarna 455 which appears to use plastic for the bottom of the clamshell case. the 5020 uses metal, like an 029. i would agree with an earlier post that it would be a good idea to acquire a splined carb adjuster tool if you buy a 5020. my experience with recent poulans is that they need tuning before use, but the same thing is true of most saws. poor tuning could be the reason that jakewells' 5020 lacks "booty."

I went through about doing a muffler mod on the 5020 and there isn't much really to do to it. Its a open tin can muffler and about all you can do other then adding other outlets is to open up the hole under the deflector some. I did do that and it really didn't make much difference.

As to the 18" bar, you have to remember that a Husky 18" bar uses a 68DL chain so your not changing much going to a 18" on it.

That said depending on where your at, it might be easier to get 68DL chains. In that case just run the 20" till its shot then get the 18" and if you have any extra chains you can just shorten them up 2 links to match your new bar.

These guys rag on the Vanguard chain but if you know the correct way to keep the rakers filed down right, it will cut just fine till you wear it out.

Pull the needles out and hit them with a dremel and slot it like all other carbs

 

[old guy]

Pull the needles out and hit them with a dremel and slot it like all other carbs

Oh, I have to disagree, get the right tool off of Amazon, they work so much better, I wish all saws had the splined needles.
I paid $17 for the first one I got but had to get a different one for my dolkita and that came in a set of 4 which included another splined one, the set cost the same $17

John

 

[CTYank]

I went through about doing a muffler mod on the 5020 and there isn't much really to do to it. Its a open tin can muffler and about all you can do other then adding other outlets is to open up the hole under the deflector some. I did do that and it really didn't make much difference.

As to the 18" bar, you have to remember that a Husky 18" bar uses a 68DL chain so your not changing much going to a 18" on it.

That said depending on where your at, it might be easier to get 68DL chains. In that case just run the 20" till its shot then get the 18" and if you have any extra chains you can just shorten them up 2 links to match your new bar.

These guys rag on the Vanguard chain but if you know the correct way to keep the rakers filed down right, it will cut just fine till you wear it out.

I've still got a few of those chains, and randomly run them among others, without problems. Just so long, like Mark sez, as the depth gauges are ALL set to .025-.030". They tend to be a bit variable, left on their own. Granberg file guide, with a flat file in it, can set them precisely. Go there, and there's nothing to kvetch about- just run it and make chips.

@old guy about Dolmars, my 6100 needs a "double-D" tool for the H needle.

 

[heyduke]

Pull the needles out and hit them with a dremel and slot it like all other carbs

it's a pain to pull the carb and then figure out a way of removing the metering needles. just buy the correct tool for the job. the splined tool is actually an improvement on the primitive flat bladed driver. you can let go of it and it will stay on the needle. also, the last poulan i used one on, a new pp4218, did not have limiters. apparently the suits at the epa and carb let them lose limiters in exchange for "tamper proof" splines. bonus, some carbs with slotted needles also have splines. you can use that seditious little driver for them too.

 

[old guy]

I've still got a few of those chains, and randomly run them among others, without problems. Just so long, like Mark sez, as the depth gauges are ALL set to .025-.030". They tend to be a bit variable, left on their own. Granberg file guide, with a flat file in it, can set them precisely. Go there, and there's nothing to kvetch about- just run it and make chips.

@old guy about Dolmars, my 6100 needs a "double-D" tool for the H needle.

That DD comes in that set of 4.

John

 

[Chris J.]

Pull the needles out and hit them with a dremel and slot it like all other carbs

I took a very short drive and paid $10.00 for the spline tool that can be used on several of my newer Poulan saws (5020, 4620, 295) and probably some others.

 

[Vibes]

I took a quick walk around my property last night to get some measurements on trees that are down. The biggest is 19" in diameter and I think it is a cottonwood (I have a ton of them). Anything bigger is so rotten that I will just leave it for the woodpeckers. The rest of it is in the 12" diameter range.

Based on what everyone seems to say about the 5020, I would keep the 20" bar for the occasional big cut but it would probably be happier with an 18" bar, a muffler mod, and a good chain. I know a shorter bar and muffler mod on my 2025 woke it up. Based on the size of other trees that look like they are ready to come down, I wouldn't want anything much smaller than an 18".

So that being said, what would be the best 18" bar and chain combo for the 5020? My local Family Farm and Home has the saw with case for $199; same at TSC. The refurb. units on ebay are tempting but would like to have a case for it. It looks like a case alone runs ~$50.

Thanks!

If a 5020 uses the same bar mount as the old Poulan 3000's and Craftsman 3.3 and the like, I have a few of those 18 inch bars hanging around that I'd like to sell off.

 

[cornfused]

As Modified Mark said, mine has been running great for about 25 cords so far. After about 7 tanks of fuel I retuned & changed to 18" bar & chain...like a completely different saw (retune not b/c length). Bar is Oregon K095/18" Pro-lite & chain is Oregon 72LGX068. As Mark said the B/C didn't make that big a difference in the cut but makes the saw handier/better balance. So far (knock on wood) it's been a great little saw. On sale @ Menards for $179.99!!!

 

[bikemike]

Oh, I have to disagree, get the right tool off of Amazon, they work so much better, I wish all saws had the splined needles.
I paid $17 for the first one I got but had to get a different one for my dolkita and that came in a set of 4 which included another splined one, the set cost the same $17

John

Yeah they find there spot every time but it just sucks to have one more tool you use 3 times a year