Longwood Duel Fuel Furnace Mark VII Manual

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Mark V longwood

Hello I just moved into a rental unit that has a Mark V longwood furnace in it. It looks to be tied into the duct work and has a humidifier attached and lots of wires running everywhere. I know its not the same model but maybe the manual thats been floating around this thread may help me understand this beast a little better. I'm not to thrilled about the baseboard heaters in the rest of the house and if I can't get this thing running the landlord has to find me something else. My email is [email protected] it would be much appreciated. Also any tricks to cleaning chimneys or is it just easier to have it hired out?
 
Hello I just moved into a rental unit that has a Mark V longwood furnace in it. It looks to be tied into the duct work and has a humidifier attached and lots of wires running everywhere. I know its not the same model but maybe the manual thats been floating around this thread may help me understand this beast a little better. I'm not to thrilled about the baseboard heaters in the rest of the house and if I can't get this thing running the landlord has to find me something else. My email is [email protected] it would be much appreciated. Also any tricks to cleaning chimneys or is it just easier to have it hired out?

Humidifier??? :confused: Need some pics of that!

Keep the chimney clean. When it's fall and spring and it's not calling for lots of heat the unit sets and smolders creating creasote. Last yr I had a couple flue fires because of the mild winter. But once a week I open the draft door wide open and shut the power off to the unit. This allows it to burn hot and clean out any creasote thats in the pipes from burning during the week. Go up once a month and sweep the chimney too. Use good seasoned wood! The wetter the wood the worse creasote it creates.

Good luck. And if someone doesn't send ya the manual by tonight, I will send it your way.
 
Manual

Thank goodness I found this. I really could use the manual.
One question. The price of fuel oil is flipping unreal. We have been using only wood and it works great. Is it safe to have that much heat in the unit? I know it is designed for slow burning oil assist, but will wood only hurt it?

[email protected]
 
heating water

I have the longwood and have been using it for a couple years. The first year didn't go so well, as the damper was broke. I have since replaced it and the house is around 70 degrees. Is it possible to heat my hot water also? If so, how would it be done?
 
Longwood manual (belated)

If you would, I could use a copy of the manual.
[email protected]

Thank you in advance.

I don't recall if I responded to this request or not, but I am doing so now just in case (via direct to your email due to size). If it is a duplication, then just trash this copy, it is not anything new that I have. Sorry for the confusion.

Hillbilly Cuz
 
I have the longwood and have been using it for a couple years. The first year didn't go so well, as the damper was broke. I have since replaced it and the house is around 70 degrees. Is it possible to heat my hot water also? If so, how would it be done?

Grassylawn,

I have to confess that I am not technically informed regarding the uses of the Longwood Mark VII. I acquired mine via a home purchase where it was already installed and working. I do not use it to heat our water, however. Surely, it could be done, but I do not know the design details. Sorry...however, others in this tread may offer some assistance regarding your query.

Hillbilly Cuz:frown:
 
I would like to get a copy of the manual if you can send it to me please. I've ran one in my house for years, but never had the manual as it's be problem free.

email at [email protected]

Thanks V
 
blower motor squealing

I hear some slight intermittent squealing coming from the blower. Does that motor or fan assembly need periodic oiling? If so, where? I am not able to see oil ports from a visual scan without taking it apart. I also, am unsure how it comes apart. Could someone provide please provide some guidance with the squealing issue?
 
My motor and fan can be oiled. The fan has 4 1/4" bolts that hold it on. I used a long extinction and socket to remove it but i dont know if they are all alike.
 
I don't recall if I responded to this request or not, but I am doing so now just in case (via direct to your email due to size). If it is a duplication, then just trash this copy, it is not anything new that I have. Sorry for the confusion.

Hillbilly Cuz

Hillbilly Cuz,

I sent you an email but I wanted to make sure I covered my bases. Please send me a copy of the Longwood manual.

Thanks. My email is [email protected].

Thanks.
 
Hey guys,
I've got a no BS download link to the manual on my server. Feel free the share the link with others. I tried to post the link to it here on the forum before but the admin kept removing my posts which I can't understand since it's not like this manual is copyrighted literature or from a company that still even exists. Just trying to help out others like myself that own a longwood duel fuel furnace mark VII.

[email protected]
 
If you ever need any advice you can call me.

I have a longwood.

I need to replace the grates soon.
Does anyone know where I can buy them or have them fabricated?

I am considering removing the heat reclaimer and adding a double-wall chimney pipe.
Does anyone know if that will help reduce the amount of creosote buildup in the chimney?
 
No. The furnace is an air tight furnace. When your thurmostat calls for no heat it closes the damper shut. Wood then smolders inside furnace causing creasote.
 
I'm heating 3000sq. Grassy lawn is heating 2000sq. Why would he need 10cord?

Last winter I went through 5 cord keeping my house 76 deg.

Don't listen to someone who has 0 knowledge of this furnace. Longwoods are a good furnace. They may not be 80% efficient but they can and will heat a large home with ease. And with less wood than outside wood burners.

Did you ever install the draft regulator?

If so: did it make any difference?
 
Hi all. I am a bit late to this thread, but I have had a Longwood for the last 26 years. First of all a big thanks to spoonhonda for the PDF of the instructions, don't really need them at this juncture, but ya never know.

For the first few years I didn't use the gas assist, and got along OK, but a friend came by and we figured it out. If you can use the gas or oil I highly recommend it. Fires are SO much easier to start and maintain with the gas. It makes no sense to not utilize the full capability of the furnace if you can. I have never put any wood in that was over 36 inches long and have had good results with the furnace. About 15 years ago it struck me that the reason that I burned quite a bit of wood was that there wasn't much heat sink, or thermal mass in this furnace, so I loaded the rear 2.5 feet of the fire chamber with glacial erratic, or field stone. This greatly enhanced heat retention and therefore reduced the amount of wood needed. As was stated before it is hard to figure out how much wood you need as winters vary greatly. Case in point, we had a high of 53 degrees on Tuesday, and it's near zero today, Thursday. When I purchased this house it had little insulation in the ceiling and zero in the walls. The ceiling had been lowered and there was R10 insulation. This last summer I took out the lowered ceiling and took the height back to the original 10.3 foot cathedral and sprayed foam to 5 inches and then covered that with an additional 2 inches of solid foam board and then 7/8 inch OSB and will cover that with drywall. The walls are 2 feet thick concrete with a stone exterior, and have no insulation which gives an R factor of zip, less than 1. The walls are as we speak being stripped with 1X2 and insulated between with 3/4 inch solid foam and then covered with another 1 inch of foam and then by OSB and then drywall. With just the ceiling finished it is much less drafty and cool in here. The envelope is about 1900 sq. ft. and all the walls and floors inside and out with few exceptions are concrete so it takes a bit to warm them up, but they hold heat like a demon holds a sinner.

The Longwood had been a great furnace, and has been zero problems so far. My only complaint is the pilot light goes out on VERY wind days and is a pain in the azz to light. JR


Can you use any type of rock?
 
Humidifier??? :confused: Need some pics of that!

Keep the chimney clean. When it's fall and spring and it's not calling for lots of heat the unit sets and smolders creating creasote. Last yr I had a couple flue fires because of the mild winter. But once a week I open the draft door wide open and shut the power off to the unit. This allows it to burn hot and clean out any creasote thats in the pipes from burning during the week. Go up once a month and sweep the chimney too. Use good seasoned wood! The wetter the wood the worse creasote it creates.

Good luck. And if someone doesn't send ya the manual by tonight, I will send it your way.

How long do you let it burn with the power off?
 
I leave the door open till i know its burning realy hot. I have one in my basement and one in our shop. Its not my ideal of the perfect stove i wish it had a deeper firebox. I live no far from the factory that built them. People that have them how do you like loading them?
 
Hi johnisdone! I used granite, it is piled next to fields all around here. You just drive up to a fence line and load up as many as you like. Since you just joined today and it doesn't have your location, I don't know if that is an option for you. You need a type of rock which is igneous, or heat tolerant. Limestone for instance would be a poor choice as it has moisture in it and will literally explode and make a mess. Best of luck and welcome to the site. JR
 
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