Lubricating recoil springs--How to?

[Chris J.]

Recently I've spent a lot of time cleaning my project & parts saws (maybe I'm weird, but I prefer to work on a clean saw).

How do you lubricate the recoil springs? I've seen it mentioned in passing in several threads, but I'm looking for some details. Is spraying the spring thoroughly with WD-40, after removing the rope & protective cover, sufficient?

BTW/FWIW, I'm not real fond of trying to rewind recoil springs :bang:.

 

[blsnelling]

Wouldn't clean and dry be the best?

 

[ttyR2]

Or maybe a dry lube of some sort.

 

[Jacob J.]

Or maybe a dry lube of some sort.

There's an aerosol dry lube made by Liquid Wrench that is excellent for recoil springs. Dry graphite powder also works very well.

 

[67L36Driver]

It's not the spring itself so much as the spindle or spool axel. I've done quite a few lawnmowers and white lithium grease + couple drops of bar oil works fine. Puts less stress on the weaker plastic types.

All the spring needs is a dusting of WD 40 to prevent rust.

 

[Chris J.]

I'm mostly concerned about rust prevention. Some of the parts saws look as though they were left outdoors for several years, and my cleaning techniques might not be the best .

There's an aerosol dry lube made by Liquid Wrench that is excellent for recoil springs. Dry graphite powder also works very well.

Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant is great, I use it on my door locks, hinges, etc. I don't how it compares to dry graphite powder, but the LWDL seemed to be the better $$ value.

 

[procarbine2k1]

Wouldn't clean and dry be the best?

So I've noticed. I take a mild agent, such as carb cleaner or solicone on a rag and wipe the unwound coil clean, rewrap and install. Seems like any leftover lubricant or solvent would attract dirt and grime, which is typically what keeps the rewind from functioning correctly. Just what has worked for me anyway...

 

[madhatte]

We used to use a suspension colloquially known as "Molly Lube" on the boat. All it was was graphite in alcohol, and you had to shake it to make it flow, but, once dried, it was just the dry lubricant. I'm pretty sure that's the same stuff also known as speedometer cable lubricant, and is a couple of bucks at any auto parts store.