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Makita DCS520i

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Yotehunter66, Jan 13, 2012.

  1. Yotehunter66

    Yotehunter66 ArboristSite Member

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    Found one of these in good condition and it supposedly runs great. $100. Is that a good price? I know the saw is 10 or 12 years old. Can you still get parts for it?
     
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  2. Dan_IN_MN

    Dan_IN_MN Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Sounds like an okay price IMO.....do you like the saw? Do you have $100.00 and still eat? Do you 'need' it?

    They're a good saw for their day....52cc mostly all metal saw...there are lighter and faster saws.

    I have one....see my sig

    Did you search? I know there was a thread not too many days ago.
     
  3. SawTroll

    SawTroll Information Collector

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    Wrong version actually, a 5200 would have been a 115iH, and much better! :smile2:

    The 520 is the "demoted" and tuned down 111.
     
  4. Yotehunter66

    Yotehunter66 ArboristSite Member

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    Don't know much about them except what I've read. I'm looking for a 50cc class saw but I'm in a budget around $300 or less. I seen a post asking about what they were worth but I thought it was a cople years old.
     
  5. Dan_IN_MN

    Dan_IN_MN Addicted to ArboristSite

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    SawTroll

    Were you replying to my post?

    What did they do to the 520i to 'detune' it? I want to undo it!:msp_biggrin:
     
  6. mowoodchopper

    mowoodchopper Polar Bear

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    agree 520 is not near the saw 115i was
     
  7. w8ye

    w8ye Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Some facts about the Dolmar 111i & 115i

    In spite of what some of the brochure says

    They have the same closed port piston - cylinder assembly

    They have the same Tillotson carb

    They have the same coil

    So what does that tell you about the power output?


    The clutch center mechanism is different.

    They come from the factory with different length bars

    The decal on the clutch cover is different

    I didn't do any comparisons with the Makita 520i
     
  8. mowoodchopper

    mowoodchopper Polar Bear

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    111 was close to same as 115 as you said 520 is not the same as either, still a good saw but less power
     
  9. SawTroll

    SawTroll Information Collector

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    Sorry, I have no intimate knowledge of those saws - but the power specs were .5 hp different, and the price was very different as well, when they were sold here.
     
  10. Justsaws

    Justsaws Addicted to ArboristSite

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    The Makita 520 is the first and only chainsaw that I bought new, for myself. I ran it hard and put it away wet. Wore out a ring, replaced multiple mounts, and consumed lots of chains, rims and a few bars. Decent saw with decent power, not the lightest, fastest, most powerful or smoothest in its class at the time but it took a beating better than many of the other saws I have owned.

    If it is in good shape I would rather pay $100.00 for another 520 than I would for alot of other saws. I bought mine new in 1999, still have it but I almost never use it any more.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012
  11. diggers_dad

    diggers_dad Sawchologist

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    If it starts, runs and is in decent condition $100 is a good price. I have owned two of the Makita DCS 520i's and 3 of the Dolmar 111's. Very good, rugged and reliable firewood saws. Not a stellar performer, but strong and steady. Yes, there are newer ones out there. Yes, there are less expensive ones out there. Yes, there are lighter ones out there. If those are your needs get a Wild Thing, it meets all of those criteria.

    If you want a solid, dependable, well-built work saw, the 520i is an excellent choice IMO. You can still get parts through Dolmar dealers and on the web without a problem. They made a lot of 'em.
     
  12. Warped5

    Warped5 WingNut

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    My feelings exactly. I HAD a 111i ( :msp_sad: ) and currently have a 520i. Flat-out love the saw. Really wakes up with a muffler mod and has a lot of overall grunt.

    Easily the quickest-starting saws I have owned. Never more than 3 pulls; super-reliable. "They aren't the hottest chick at the dance, but they know how to fix your car if it breaks down on the way home." There are many good parts suppliers out there, too.
     
  13. Yotehunter66

    Yotehunter66 ArboristSite Member

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    Done! Saw was in good shape and started and ran great in this cold weather. I will have to clean up the clutch area and make sure it's oiling. The only thing that doesn't appear to work is the half throttle lock for starting.
     
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  14. Warped5

    Warped5 WingNut

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    Congrats and enjoy it! :clap: :clap: :clap:

    I'll look and get back to you, I know I had a throttle/lock assembly around here. Gimme a day ..
     
  15. Yotehunter66

    Yotehunter66 ArboristSite Member

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    Cool. I really appreciate all the help and advice you guys have given me. Thanks.
     
  16. Dan_IN_MN

    Dan_IN_MN Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I'm not trying to call you a dummy!.....

    Are you using the lock correctly? Squeeze and hold the throttle….push and hold lock…..let go of throttle…..
     
  17. Dan_IN_MN

    Dan_IN_MN Addicted to ArboristSite

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    What did you do for a muffler mod?

    Thanks!
     
  18. diggers_dad

    diggers_dad Sawchologist

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    I forgot to mention...Welcome to AS and the disease that comes with.

    New guy rep for ya!
     
  19. Warped5

    Warped5 WingNut

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    Saw was modded when I bought it. Had an extra hole cut in it with an added deflector (Husky maybe?) installed and the muffler was just a hollow can. Easiest starting saw I have ever owned!
     
  20. Yotehunter66

    Yotehunter66 ArboristSite Member

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    No offense taken. First time messing with it. I thought the manual said to depress the lock half way, pull the throttle all the way in and then push the lock all the way down. This is what the manual says to do so I was trying it this way and it would just pop right back out.

    Cold-starting the DOLMAR 110i, 110i H, 115i and 115i H:
    The carburetors of these saws have a fuel-injection system
    (injection carburetor) for cold starting (mixture enrichment).
    These two cold-starting systems work differently.
    - Put the short-circuit ignition switch in the "I" position (B/1).
    - Pull out the choke (B/2) (opens the injection valve).
    - Depress the half-throttle lock button (B/3) half-way and
    hold.
    - Depress the throttle (B/4) and half-throttle lock button (B/3)
    all the way. Release the throttle - it will now be held at
    half-throttle by the lock button.
     

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