Makita DCS520i

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Saw was modded when I bought it. Had an extra hole cut in it with an added deflector (Husky maybe?) installed and the muffler was just a hollow can. Easiest starting saw I have ever owned!

Can you post a pic of it? Also when you do that does it increase the rpms? Will that shorten the life of the saw? Thanks for the welcome too.
 
Dolmar 111 muffler mod

My feelings exactly. I HAD a 111i ( :msp_sad: ) and currently have a 520i. Flat-out love the saw. Really wakes up with a muffler mod and has a lot of overall grunt.



Easily the quickest-starting saws I have owned. Never more than 3 pulls; super-reliable. "They aren't the hottest chick at the dance, but they know how to fix your car if it breaks down on the way home." There are many good parts suppliers out there, too.

I'd love info on the muffler mod.

Thanks

Mike
[email protected]
 
Love mine and it is the most heavily "abused" saw I have. I have a disgusting waffled out hole in the muffler, it was the first muffler port I ever attempted. I keep 3-4 filters cleaned in a baggy in the box, it can suck up quite a bit during a day and they are easy to swap out. They are nylon and are a little delicate, you dont want to be banging them on a log to clean them up. I blow them out with air and sometimes a lil soap and water. Easy to start and just keeps running year after year. I have several much bigger saws I use now, but at the end of the day when there are clean ups and small branches that need to be trimmed off, its a lot easier on the arms. I still use it to take down 12"ers when needed. Our next trip out to the woods my 15 year old son will start using it. :blob2:
 
Hello, 1st time on this site. I have a dcs520i-got it started-ran ok for about 1/2 hour. shut if off and when tried to restart-started cord very hard to pull-removed spark plug and cylinder and plug were flooded. Starter rope pulled fine with plug out, but hard with plug in, unless i blew out cylinder with air. Any ideas when I can get a service manual and carb kit?
 
The diaphragm is most likely hard in the regulator side of the carb and is holding the needle open?
 
Thanks for your response. Any idea where to get a carb kit? Am I correct in assuming I will need one to fix this problem?
 
Thanks for your response. Any idea where to get a carb kit? Am I correct in assuming I will need one to fix this problem?

Any busy small engine shop in your area should stock one. You'll need to get the Make/Model of it before you do, though. The 'i' on the end of the model name means you have an injector-type carb (injects rather than uses a choke plate), probably a Tillotson. The model number escapes me right now ...

Judging by your above post, that carb needs to be torn down and cleaned. Preferably in a USC with mineral spirits ... sounds like your needle/seat are mucked up.
 
Any busy small engine shop in your area should stock one. You'll need to get the Make/Model of it before you do, though. The 'i' on the end of the model name means you have an injector-type carb (injects rather than uses a choke plate), probably a Tillotson. The model number escapes me right now ...

Judging by your above post, that carb needs to be torn down and cleaned. Preferably in a USC with mineral spirits ... sounds like your needle/seat are mucked up.

I appreciate the info. Will check it out and let you know. Thanks.
 
No spark :-(

Hi, Guys,
I have a DCS520i, no spark. What I did until now: Disconnected the kill-switch, measured the resistance between the ground and secondary pin (the one that has the kill switch connected onto it), it is 0.8 Ohms. Measured the Primary resistance between ground and the end of the high voltage wire, it is 8.7 KOhm. Checked the gap between the flywheel and coil armature, it is 12 mils. Should I assume a bad ignition module? Would it be a classical problem on these saws?

Thank you for helping me out.
 
Makita DCS520 ignition module fixed

After becoming so frustrated about not finding a replacement for the defective ignition coil, or seeing some of them for as ridiculous prices as 120$, I decided to give a try and fix mine. So, I dremmeled the back side of the module, almost touched the coil, but no electronics there. I went on the other side (the one that goes to the flywheel) and started removing the plastic case, found some epoxy glue underneath, a steel plate, and the electronics under it. Luckily, the bad guy (a power transistor) was on that side of the electronics board. Cleaned the epoxy around it, removed the part, found an equivalent for 80 cents, installed, poured some silicone sealant to insulate the stuff..... it works. If someone wants to try my method, I am really happy to help him out with some advices.
 
Fantastic! Haven't read here a lot about ignition coil repair. Now pics would make the description much more enjoyable. Congratulation! :clap:

7
 
Wrong version actually, a 5200 would have been a 115iH, and much better! :smile2:

The 520 is the "demoted" and tuned down 111.

The later years after Makita entered the picture, there is no difference between a 111i and a 115i except the length of the bar.

The 520 is a lower price point 5200. the 520 weighs more and doesn't have as much power as the 5200.

To use the 5200 and 520 on different days, you might not notice the difference?
 
The later years after Makita entered the picture, there is no difference between a 111i and a 115i except the length of the bar. ....

I wonder where that "info" comes from, but somehow suspect it is from IPLs. Just remember that IPLs are about replacement parts, and they aren't always the same as the originals for the "lesser" models, to simplify logistics! ...:msp_rolleyes:
 
Fantastic! Haven't read here a lot about ignition coil repair. Now pics would make the description much more enjoyable. Congratulation! :clap:

7

I didn't think about taking pictures, just wanted the saw working, but I would be glad to offer step-by-step information about how the work can be done.
 
Back
Top