Masterminded 32:1 mix requirement?
- Thread starter windthrown
- Start date
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No but it might stop a rolling truck
one.man.band
ArboristSite Guru
Baileys full synthetic is excellent oil. I use it in my own saws, if not running one of the motorcycle oils. I ported a 441 that had been used a LOT for milling. The saw was 100% stock, including the carb limiters. It was obvious that it had been HOT...a LOT. But, there was not a hint of scoring. The saw had been run on Baileys full synthetic. That one testimonial was enough to convince me that it's a very good oil. I run all of my saws at 32:1. I recommend to everyone that I port a saw for, that they run the full synthetic oil of their choosing at 32:1, no less than 40:1. 50:1 would probably be fine in most cases, but it's simply not worth the risk.
to me at least..that piston looks smoked. its got blowby almost all the way around rings.
hard to tell anything really, the piston looks wiped off? no pick of underside of piston, mabe that would tell the tale.
if it wasnt wiped off, had hard carobon on top, no soft soot, and burnt carbon on underside, looks like it was in need of more oil, and new rings. rare photos, i think anyway, to catch a piston right before it goes.
-omb
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This site is going to cost me more trips to the gas station 30 minutes away that sells none ETH gas. My 5.2 ounce bottle of Stihl synthic used to make 2 gallons of mix in my 2 1/2 gallon can will now only yield 1.3 gallons. Oh well guess I better get some bigger cans
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just a couple of early shots from teardown of a Echo PB-500 blower.
they're marked in & ex as you would be facing the cylinder.
Been running Echo Red Armor at 3.5 oz per gal, non-E premium gas
This thing has reeds in the intake and also on the sides of the cylinder
to work as some funky strato setup.
I'm trying to get some decent pics and hopefully do a simple thread on it little later.
they're marked in & ex as you would be facing the cylinder.
Been running Echo Red Armor at 3.5 oz per gal, non-E premium gas
This thing has reeds in the intake and also on the sides of the cylinder
to work as some funky strato setup.
I'm trying to get some decent pics and hopefully do a simple thread on it little later.
Attachments
VinceGU05
PSA vitim.
its a bloody great idea to put that in your sig randy. i was gunna ask if there's anything special to do to run these ported saws. i don't know alot about chainsaws but one thing was i didn't like 50:1. more lube the better i thought so always ran around 25 to 35 :1.
thanks randy for this thread. makes it very clear of what can happen if mix goes a bit too lean.
thanks randy for this thread. makes it very clear of what can happen if mix goes a bit too lean.
sachsmo
Addicted to ArboristSite
The reason karts used 16:1 is NOT the RPMs they ran, it was the duration the kart engines held those RPMs.
I run 32:1 in all my milling saws because ripping a 30" Oak for 19' puts alot of stress on the bearings. (and operator)
With the new coatings the cylinders would be fine at 50:1 (properly tuned)
I run 32:1 in all my milling saws because ripping a 30" Oak for 19' puts alot of stress on the bearings. (and operator)
With the new coatings the cylinders would be fine at 50:1 (properly tuned)
windthrown
361 Junkie
Milling is another world for chainsaw use though. Long periods at high RPM and cutting the hardest way possible though logs. I would up the oil to 32:1 when milling, even with Picco B&C.
CR500
Diesel, Snowmobile, & Chainsaw Technician
I used to run at 35:1 but now I run 32:1 just for easy measuring when it comes to me mixing gas for anything 2 cycle at my house.
I run my sled with Klotz R-50 at 32:1 and it has not had a severe engine failure. I did have 1 engine failure that was not related to oil mix ratio, I had a bad base gasket on a fully ported crankcase that did not have enough clearance and it was causing the engine to run lean and the pistons scraped up pretty bad due to insufficient clearance. Other than that the bottom of the case had a good amount of Klotz in the bottom which I was glad to see even though I have to do a rebuild. lol
I have been wanting to switch from Stihl synthetic for a few months now but have been wondering about what to try next. I hear the R-50 I have will work good? However I'm a huge fan of Bel-Ray oils...I've ran them in my CR500 AF and that motor looked mint on the insides.
I run my sled with Klotz R-50 at 32:1 and it has not had a severe engine failure. I did have 1 engine failure that was not related to oil mix ratio, I had a bad base gasket on a fully ported crankcase that did not have enough clearance and it was causing the engine to run lean and the pistons scraped up pretty bad due to insufficient clearance. Other than that the bottom of the case had a good amount of Klotz in the bottom which I was glad to see even though I have to do a rebuild. lol
I have been wanting to switch from Stihl synthetic for a few months now but have been wondering about what to try next. I hear the R-50 I have will work good? However I'm a huge fan of Bel-Ray oils...I've ran them in my CR500 AF and that motor looked mint on the insides.
CR500
Diesel, Snowmobile, & Chainsaw Technician
I hear ya on that sometimes lol. I had some Polaris oil I was running last year and on a cold start if the wind was blowing right it would burn my eyes lol
sachsmo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Olive Oyl is good!
I prefer Super Techniplate for me saws (original TecniPlate good too)
I came to the conclusion after a nice talk with an Engineer from Klotz.
I had a hair brained idea to make an e85 saw, he recommended the Super T for it's ability to stay suspended in alcohol.
I have put one particular saw through hell milling, it still runs great to this day. It has been fed a steady diet of Mobil 12T then Yamalube2T and for the past 5 or 6 years Klotz SuperTecniplate.
I prefer Super Techniplate for me saws (original TecniPlate good too)
I came to the conclusion after a nice talk with an Engineer from Klotz.
I had a hair brained idea to make an e85 saw, he recommended the Super T for it's ability to stay suspended in alcohol.
I have put one particular saw through hell milling, it still runs great to this day. It has been fed a steady diet of Mobil 12T then Yamalube2T and for the past 5 or 6 years Klotz SuperTecniplate.
SkySkrape
SkySkrape
That's how it's spelled...
RandyMac
Stiff Member
I can see how milling can be tough, but bucking big Old Growth was brutal.
zogger
Tree Freak
Well..what did you use for mix then?
RandyMac
Stiff Member
32:1, it was a bean oil blend, bought bulk fuel at the sawshop, they were entirely trustworthy. The smoke smelled pleasently exotic.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Gary Goo
zogger
Tree Freak
Cool! In the 70s until..dang, early 2000s, I just used regular motor oil, for mix oil and bar oil. (at least clean and new not used waste oil...) Then I got hip they had actual products for those uses...the wonders of modern science!
Old mix oil technique, one gallon gas, car oil, glug glug glug maybe another glug, done.
So then, I joined this site, jeez loweez it changes. Lots more saws plus knowledge now on maintenance, care and use. Best thing is, now I can fell trees and it isn't totally stupid, it at least *resembles* some sort of decent face and back cuts..
Wish I had some pics of some of my olden days felling cuts, PLENTY 0 laffs there! hahahaha
