Mcculloch 3200 leaking bar oil

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David Y.

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I was given a Mculloch 3200 that leaks oil at the cap. I tried tightening it down, putting in a new gasket(tried rubber). It leaks a bit less, but still a problem. Is this a common problem? Will a new cap fix the problem? Is there one available anywhere? Thanks.
 
I was given a Mculloch 3200 that leaks oil at the cap. I tried tightening it down, putting in a new gasket(tried rubber). It leaks a bit less, but still a problem. Is this a common problem? Will a new cap fix the problem? Is there one available anywhere? Thanks.

Not positive about that model but you might try putting an o-ring in the cap so that it can positively engage the tank.
 
I have a 3200 and just got done fixing similar problem. Found out the oil cap doesn't always thread on strait and it caused the oil tank to ware down and crack at the threads. I replaced the oil tank and cap.
 
How hard

How hard was it to replace the oil tank? What was the cost and where did you get parts? Thanks, Dave
 
Update

I got a better chance to investigate late last night and it was as ohio03trdtaco had suggested. I got the saw from my brother's neighbor, so I don't know exactly what happened, but the oil filler neck is split between the threads. Crack is about a quarter the way around the neck. Is it possible to repair it from the inside? I was thinking maybe some type of plastic glue and a narrow patch. Or am I down to replacing the tank?
 
I'm in Brainerd, if you get up here we can see if i've got what you need. I know i have a 3414, should be the same tank. If i look in my piles of parts saws i should have a 3200.
 
Thanks

I'm going to try a repair on it first, if that doesn't work I'll give you a call. I grew up on the southside of Brainerd, but moved in 5th grade. I don't get up there much anymore.
 
The tank was about $18 shipped and the cap was $3 + shipping. I will look for my parts invoices later and get you the part numbers and such. As for replacement wasn't bad. You take the side cover off with the recoil then have to pull the fly wheel and take the the oil pump off about three more bolts and the tank will come right out. If they would have made the pump about 1/4" shorter you would be able to change with just taking off the side cover.
 
thanks

Thanks for the help. I actually did get it out by brute force, but I will do what you suggest to put it back in. I am going to see if I can't repair it with some type of bondo on the inside.
 
you might try fiberglass resin if you just need to seal it up. I did this with a fuel tank on an old saw a few months ago and seems to be holding up just fine.
 
I got a better chance to investigate late last night and it was as ohio03trdtaco had suggested. I got the saw from my brother's neighbor, so I don't know exactly what happened, but the oil filler neck is split between the threads. Crack is about a quarter the way around the neck. Is it possible to repair it from the inside? I was thinking maybe some type of plastic glue and a narrow patch. Or am I down to replacing the tank?
Try using a sealant called the Right Stuff. It bonds to anything. I use it all the time.
Bruce.
 
I have a Mac 3214 that has a leaky oil reservoir. The side seam cracked and it has a diagonal crack on one of the threads. These tanks are blow molded from HDPE (high density polyethylene) and can be repaired with a soldering iron and some strips cut from containers made with the same material (it will be identified with HDPE by the recycling logo). I used an old cheese container and a 40 watt soldering iron I use to repair electrical items. A 25 watt iron will work too.
 
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