McCulloch Chain Saws

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So this is what I see after knowing where to clean. A bit sad washing the build up as its just another piece of evidence of my dad gone to yesterday. It says 1-76 and below the 76 is 86 with a strike through. Then it also says 9144. See pics attaced. Im assuing the same housing was used on the 76 and the 86 and one was crossed out depending on the model?

By the way, this forum is really cool and I am appreciative of all the immediate assistance.

Dom
 

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DominicT said:
So this is what I see after knowing where to clean. A bit sad washing the build up as its just another piece of evidence of my dad gone to yesterday. It says 1-76 and below the 76 is 86 with a strike through. Then it also says 9144. See pics attaced. Im assuing the same housing was used on the 76 and the 86 and one was crossed out depending on the model?

By the way, this forum is really cool and I am appreciative of all the immediate assistance.

Dom
Click to expand...
The 1 - 76 is direct drive and the 1 - 86 is the gear drive version of the same saw. The strike through the number is pretty standard as far as I've seen. I've had several 790's & 890's with a strike through the 790 or vise versa.
 
Is this line supposed to be here?!?
Saw runs like an absolute beast, but...?
5fc2230763c166d22d611c33df4d4448.jpg
d0655a600a823b4c90edfc8f994b9e6b.jpg
 
happysaws said:
Is this line supposed to be here?!?
Saw runs like an absolute beast, but...?
5fc2230763c166d22d611c33df4d4448.jpg
d0655a600a823b4c90edfc8f994b9e6b.jpg
Click to expand...

Yikes! Maybe it's some kind of past failure, and the saw was re-ringed? I would be worried about cylinder damage but I would think if the cylinder had major damage then the saw wouldn't run. Can you see anything through the plug hole?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
brandonstc6 said:
Yikes! Maybe it's some kind of past failure, and the saw was re-ringed? I would be worried about cylinder damage but I would think if the cylinder had major damage then the saw wouldn't run. Can you see anything through the plug hole?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
One sec...
 
Just a recommendation, but leave the nut on the crankshaft so when it does pop loose you don't send the flywheel across the room and possibly break a fin or two. Sometime they will pop loose when you turn around for the hammer...then you may need to change your shorts.

It may require a lot of torque on the puller and a very authoritative rap with the hammer to jar it loose. Try holding the saw in the air by the puller in your off hand and giving it a whack with your good hand so you don't direct all that force through the crankshaft into the workbench.

Mark
 
Dominic - 1-76 is a nice saw but does require a lot of work with your thumb to keep the chain oiled.

From the IPL's that I have, only the 795L and the Super 797 had that adapter and the SDC carburetor. Most of the 1-7X/1-8X and 700/800 models had a Tillotson HL or McCulloch (Walbro) flat back carburetor.

It would have been very easy to swap that setup into your 1-76 chassis from a different saw. The SDC is a very nice carburetor and did come standard on the later 106 and 123 cc saws like the CP125 and SP105 and SP125.

For what it's worth, the 1-76 is a 99 cc displacement saw.

Mark
 
Thanks Mark. Very good info to have. I'm going to clean this thing up a bit more and see if I can get it to run with just a new plug, fuel filter, etc. Any advice on what to NOT do when trying to get this thing going? I read the fuel for these is a 20:1 mixture. Is that correct? My more modern saws all are 50:1 and all I have for those is the premixed ethanol free fuel. Is there an ethanol free option if I need 20:1?
 
heimannm said:
Just a recommendation, but leave the nut on the crankshaft so when it does pop loose you don't send the flywheel across the room and possibly break a fin or two. Sometime they will pop loose when you turn around for the hammer...then you may need to change your shorts.

It may require a lot of torque on the puller and a very authoritative rap with the hammer to jar it loose. Try holding the saw in the air by the puller in your off hand and giving it a whack with your good hand so you don't direct all that force through the crankshaft into the workbench.

Mark
Click to expand...
It's amazing how much pressure can be created with that wedge. Ik sometimes separating ball joints and tie rods can require a very large hammer
 
astnmacgto said:
It's amazing how much pressure can be created with that wedge. Ik sometimes separating ball joints and tie rods can require a very large hammer
Click to expand...
Ya, I just didn't feel good putting that much force on bearings that spin 10k rpm. I'll try heating up the flywheel.
 
happysaws said:
Ya, I just didn't feel good putting that much force on bearings that spin 10k rpm. I'll try heating up the flywheel.
Click to expand...

Do like Mark said. Put the flywheel nut on just enough to hold the flywheel. User your puller (DO NOT USE A TIE ROD/BALL JOINT WEDGE). Tighten it up. Hold the saw up and give the puller a sharp rap on the end (the threaded rod with the hex end). I bet the flywheel will pop right off. If you forget the flywheel nut you will break something. Ron
 
With the quality of modern mix oil you don't need to run 20:1 or even 32:1 for most saws regardless of the old instructions. Just make sure it burbles a little out of the cuts and cleans up under load, never adjust them lean just to hear them scream unloaded.

I like to run all mine at 40:1 and don't have any issues with plugs fouling or exhaust screens plugging up.

Mark
 

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