McCulloch Chain Saws

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Do like Mark said. Put the flywheel nut on just enough to hold the flywheel. User your puller (DO NOT USE A TIE ROD/BALL JOINT WEDGE). Tighten it up. Hold the saw up and give the puller a sharp rap on the end (the threaded rod with the hex end). I bet the flywheel will pop right off. If you forget the flywheel nut you will break something. Ron
Just to clarify I wasn't suggesting using a pickle fork to remove the flywheel, I was talking about the taper wedge of the flywheel to the crank and how much pressure you can create by how tight you get the flywheel nut. The puller he is using is definitely the way to go.
 
Just to clarify I wasn't suggesting using a pickle fork to remove the flywheel, I was talking about the taper wedge of the flywheel to the crank and how much pressure you can create by how tight you get the flywheel nut. The puller he is using is definitely the way to go.
Had to google 'pickle fork'. Lol.
 
Just to clarify I wasn't suggesting using a pickle fork to remove the flywheel, I was talking about the taper wedge of the flywheel to the crank and how much pressure you can create by how tight you get the flywheel nut. The puller he is using is definitely the way to go.

Misunderstood, I thought fork when you said wedge. Using a fork could really mess up a saw.

The hammer hit has always worked for me. A little intimidating the first few times. Hammer or not leaving the nut on as Mark suggested can save a lot of grief.

Ron
 
Misunderstood, I thought fork when you said wedge. Using a fork could really mess up a saw.

The hammer hit has always worked for me. A little intimidating the first few times. Hammer or not leaving the nut on as Mark suggested can save a lot of grief.

Ron
Yes, it would mess up a housing in a hurry haha
 
my neighbor gave me these for free yesterday. 2 super pro 81's and a parts saw. and 1 promatic 850. he is old man and kids had no interest. I made the 850 run today and it ran well on 32-1 mix. where can I get a service manual ???
View attachment 560238 View attachment 560239
You will find that those are some pretty fun saws to use! Also welcome to the site.... I can probably get you an illustrated parts list this evening if you would like, or post in the beg for manuals thread
 
It is tough to see it, but a check of the boot between the carburetor/airbox and the cylinder is important. The boot is the round, black fitting on the top of the cylinder in this photo. If either of the anti-vibe mount front or rear are torn or broken, the boot is more likely to have been damaged. If you start it and it smokes like a demon, you most likely have some bar oil leaking past the automatic oil pump/seal. Search a bit and you will find a lot of discussion on this. Not a big problem but you can't run that way indefinitely.

DSC06839.JPG

Mark
 
Thanks Mark. my neighbor gave me some extra mounts as he said them failing was common when logging. I will check/replace the boot. Do all three of these saws have the prone to leaking fuel tank cork gaskets ?
 
neighbor was over and rambling last night said the Husqvarna replaced the mac where he was at. He said the ash after Mt St Helens wreaked havoc on the macs but the huskys were more tolerant of it. He quit about this time so never made the swap. He also told me the mac 850 was given to him by a guy who bought a loader. said guy was much happier sitting on his butt than sawing. Guy came by one day on the loader and stopped and just gave it to him free. All three saws had a paper towel stuffed tightly in the top of the tanks, and gas caps were inside top covers when I got them.
 
I've heard of a lot of Huskys having trouble with bearing failure from the ash. Perhaps they had better filtration so the problems took longer to manifest?
 
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