McCulloch Chain Saws

[PogoInTheWoods]

Tru dat! LOL

 

[rwoods]

But I really like brand X chains and my local brand X dealer. Can't help but wonder if brand Y had survived without the buyout what a Y saw would look like today. A 100cc ten series????

If someone could source a piston, Brian and I would build a prototype 100cc ten series. Ron

 

[heimannm]

Hey Ron - show us how that metric bar mounts up on saw with 5/16" bar studs please.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

First, make sure your 5/16ths studs have metric threads.



Then make sure your X brand bar has two extra holes.


Then make sure you have one of these crude accessories.




The first is just a joke of course. Did you notice the two bottom teeth of the dawg? Had to file them before posting these fresh pictures.

Happy Easter All.

Ron

 

[fossil]

Happy Easter Ron

 

[astnmacgto]

But I really like brand X chains and my local brand X dealer. Can't help but wonder if brand Y had survived without the buyout what a Y saw would look like today. A 100cc ten series????

If someone could source a piston, Brian and I would build a prototype 100cc ten series. Ron

Boy wouldn't that be a sight to see. I would love to see how far brand y would be today if they could have maintained the quality of the earlies, I would love to see 100cc 10 series saw. I don't generally run stihl chains, but I have made a few and you have to grind the rivets down to get them to break, much, much harder than oregon

 

[Brian Thacker]

If you wanted to run brand X bars all the time why not just remove bar studs and replace them with brand X size studs? Some minor drilling is all it would take would it not? Or drill them a little loose where they could be turned 1/4 turn and have one side of the bolt groung down to fit brand Y bars. Just have to give them a 1/4 turn to run what bar you want?
Brian

 

[astnmacgto]

If you wanted to run brand X bars all the time why not just remove bar studs and replace them with brand X size studs? Some minor drilling is all it would take would it not? Or drill them a little loose where they could be turned 1/4 turn and have one side of the bolt groung down to fit brand Y bars. Just have to give them a 1/4 turn to run what bar you want?
Brian

I personally wouldn't bother lol, but I bet somebody would, it's a good idea for sure

 

[rwoods]

If you wanted to run brand X bars all the time why not just remove bar studs and replace them with brand X size studs? Some minor drilling is all it would take would it not? Or drill them a little loose where they could be turned 1/4 turn and have one side of the bolt groung down to fit brand Y bars. Just have to give them a 1/4 turn to run what bar you want?
Brian

Cool idea. I like the twist and turn so long as a good seal can be maintained. Most of the time I like to be able to return to completely stock form. Though we could put this feature on our 100cc version. Ron

 

[fossil]

Ron, you might try some .404 skip on the 82cc saw. Full comp is pretty aggressive for hardwood on a saw under 100 cc.
I'll bet full comp would eat some pine.

 

[astnmacgto]

Could you get a decompression valve in the head of a sp125 and sp125c

 

[astnmacgto]

Also, aren't the serial number tags on the fuel tank under the air filter

 

[rwoods]

Could you get a decompression valve in the head of a sp125 and sp125c

I believe that is how they both came from the factory. Ron

 

[rwoods]

Ron, you might try some .404 skip on the 82cc saw. Full comp is pretty aggressive for hardwood on a saw under 100 cc.
I'll bet full comp would eat some pine.

I would not say it was grabby but that chain certainly pulled you into the wood. I have a 25' roll of full comp to use up. I was thinking of some skip for my longer 3/8" bars but you can bury a 33" bar on that particular saw with 3/8s and an 8 pin in oak - not with a heavy hand of course.

Ron

 

[RandyMac]

404 is a bit heavy for the 82cc, better performance is with full comp, square bit 3/8''.

 

[rwoods]

I've had a taste of square - too bad I can't file worth a hoot. The .404 semi-chisel began as an experiment several years ago for bucking firewood in dirty log piles as round chisel didn't hold up long. Unfortunately, my chosen saw seized before it ever hit the wood. In meantime, I developed a liking for the 24" bar just when they went scarce. So I dusted off the shelved experiment. We will see how it goes and I'll report back here.

Ron

 

[happysaws]

But I really like brand X chains and my local brand X dealer. Can't help but wonder if brand Y had survived without the buyout what a Y saw would look like today. A 100cc ten series????

If someone could source a piston, Brian and I would build a prototype 100cc ten series. Ron

Why not just buy a Pro Mac 105??
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...64256bd2f9681d0588256c2e0077a091?OpenDocument

 

[astnmacgto]

Why not just buy a Pro Mac 105??
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...64256bd2f9681d0588256c2e0077a091?OpenDocument

id take one of those, but were looking for big inches in a small package, thats why a 100cc 10 series fits the bill

 

[happysaws]

Could you get a decompression valve in the head of a sp125 and sp125c

Also, aren't the serial number tags on the fuel tank under the air filter

The decompression valve is already in them from the factory. They'd be nearly impossible to start without one.

Yes, the serial tag is under the air filter cover.

 

[happysaws]

id take one of those, but were looking for big inches in a small package, thats why a 100cc 10 series fits the bill

Ahh I see..
[emoji106]