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McCulloch Eager Beaver won't start after disassembly

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Rich73Kelly, Oct 10, 2011.

  1. Rich73Kelly

    Rich73Kelly ArboristSite Lurker

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    I am new to these Forums so, please forgive me if it is in the wrong place and inform me if it has been moved!
    I inherited a McCulloch Eager Beaver 2.0 Model #60012312 chainsaw with the ZAMA M7 carburetor from my father in law last year. It worked fine all summer but, the oiler was leaking. If I top it off near the end of a job, finish up, let it cool down and put it back in its case, next time I go to use it, there is a puddle of oil in the bottom of the case. So, I took it all apart to clean it up. BAD mistake !!! Now it won't start again. I should say, RUN again cause, if I dump some gas in the carb, over the filter, it starts right up, runs for a bit and stops. Pull it a couple more times, it sputters and dies. Dump more gas in the carb, same thing. ??? :msp_confused:
    I really regret taking this thing apart cause if the ole man ever decides he wants to use it again, he won't be able to.
    So every one knows, I won't hide the fact that the carb is apart right now. I opened it up, thinking maybe, a piece of sawdust got up in there. everything is clean, gas/fuel mix dripped out of the carb when I loosened the screws. It don't seem to be getting THROUGH the carb tho. ??? I am at a loss! these are really quite a simple set up!
    Has anyone else experienced this? I tried calling the local True Value small engine shop for answers. Of course, I was told "You will have to bring it in, I can't tell without looking at it." ... at the tune of $65.00 an hour.:eek2:
    Another thing that will help me out here too, ... proper plug gap and L and H screw settings. The plug is at like, 27, the L and H screws are between 1 and 1 1/2 turns.
    I don't know what else to offer here except for the fact I have disassembled and reassembled this thing 4 times now thinking, maybe the gas line is getting crimped somewhere but, it moves freely back and forth with the housing mounted to the motor. Really hard to see inside these cases and they are clumbsy enough, they have to go completely back together to try to start!
     
  2. fearofpavement

    fearofpavement Trying them all

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    You came to the right place

    There are people on this forum that are very familiar with this saw. You will get the answers you need and stay out of trouble with dad. Hang in there.
     
  3. Guido Salvage

    Guido Salvage Supreme Saw Whoreder

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    That is why I will never take another one apart...
     
  4. struggle

    struggle Got stumps?

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    It is very easy to have the fuel line not stay in the slot where it is supposed to lay in a channel. If it strays off to the side it will pinch the fuel line as you stated.

    Did you remove the carb on it and change the gaskets around? I have one here that a person put the wrong gasket on the carb mounting and of course it did not run right.

    I put some vasoline on the oring of the plastic fuel hose retainer and then put the engine in careful to keep the fuel line in it channel.

    I would start with that as you are not getting fuel.
     
  5. Rich73Kelly

    Rich73Kelly ArboristSite Lurker

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    Struggle, first, I know the channel you are referring to, the first time I put it back together, I had the fuel line on the wrong side of the plug wire and the line was NOT in that channel. Every time after that, I made sure it moved back and forth freely in the channel. I noticed that due to the natural curves in the hose.
    I did NOT remove the carb. Although one of the screws is difficult to remove, I only took out the four screws to the cover the fuel inlet is on and removed the cover, the first gasket with, I am assuming, flapper valves on it, the plastic piece under that, the next gasket, which has a round center, and the plastic round thing that goes in the needle valve lever. I did also take out the needle valve to inspect it. To return to your question, I did not remove the whole carb cause I don't have brass feeler gauges to properly gap the coil against the flywheel!
    I have put vaseline on the o-ring and am careful to put the fuel line in that channel. There is fuel in theline to the carb but, it never gets through the carb.
    I do have a question concerning that, should I be able to blow through the fuel line, connected to the carb or not? I can't. Maybe it does need a new gasket there BUT, I can't find one ... they are no longer available for the M1-M7 carbs. From what I gather, it is a #RB-19 kit. The Zama site has nothing listed, I found my info at jackssmallengines.com .
     
  6. Rich73Kelly

    Rich73Kelly ArboristSite Lurker

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    Apology to Moderator ...

    Moderator, ... I will get to know your name as time passes... I want to apologize for posting twice. I missed the approval message the first time and thought I pressed a wrong button. You have my permission to remove the latter of the two.
     
  7. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Addicted to ArboristSite

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    [​IMG]When I see an Eager Beaver, Mini-Mac, etc. at a flea market or yard sale I generally just keep on walking. They're really not worth the effort of taking them completely apart 4 or 5 times to get them running right. Do yourself and your Dad a favor and look on 'the bay for a good used Poulan 25 or Micro XXV saw. They run better with minimal work and they are much easier to work on and they're usually dirt cheap.
     
  8. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Addicted to ArboristSite

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    You can still find kits for them, you just have to look a little harder, ebay has had them although I haven't looked lately. I'm pretty sure Stens still has them also. The fuel line is just a hollow tube and if nothing is wrong with it you should be able to blow through it. It has a filter in the bottom of the tank and if it's stopped up you might have trouble blowing through the line if it's hooked to the filter. Since you're going to the trouble taking it apart you might as well change the filter and the fuel line.
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2011
  9. Rich73Kelly

    Rich73Kelly ArboristSite Lurker

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    I will have to look a little harder for the kit ... just trying to avoid the extra expense! Yes, I can blow through the line itself. Just not connected to the inlet ... fuel runs through the filter in the bottom of the tank freely. If I don't lay the tank down, fuel runs out. Neither of these appear to be the problem here ... fuel gets to the carb but, not through it! Soon, I will have to put it back together just to have it all back in one piece before the snow flies! Just wish there was some way of turning this thing over without having to fully reasemble it every time!
     
  10. HILLBILLYREDNEC

    HILLBILLYREDNEC Banned

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  11. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Addicted to ArboristSite

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    That is the problem with the Mini-Mac...you have to do the whole thing over if you don't have everything right the first time, and that is even for a small job like the carburetor or ignition. My local lawnmower shop has them, I think, so there should be kits for them in many older small engine shops that work on saws. You might also keep looking on ebay. They are harder to find than some since they quit making those saws long ago.
     
  12. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I don't think you should be able to blow through the line when it's connected to the carburetor. You should, however, be able to blow through the line and filter somewhat with the line disconnected from the carburetor.
     
  13. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Addicted to ArboristSite

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