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scheffa

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Let's say you have an Alaskan mill and a full workshop of fabricating equipment. What would you do to a standard Alaskan mill to make it better.

In standard form an Alaskan mill is an extremely basic piece of equipment, I have thought of a few things that could be improved/added to make it a better piece of equipment.
Spacing the rails further apart to main sharpening easier with remov the saw.

A four post setup that utilised threaded rods of some sort to allow for easier and more accurate height adjustment and better stability.

Wheels mounted to the power head end to allow smother running along the log.

Inbuilt provisions for a hand operated winch for millingarge diameter logs.

Av mounted handle to reduce vibrations to the operator.

Flip up magnet to remove bar sag before starting a wide cut.

Let me know your ideas
 
Why not build from the ground up, aka ms880 BIL MILL2 What's the mechanics on using the top side of the bar. To utilize the built in oiler
Would wheels like you mentioned but at the bar nose help.
+1 the wider frame for sharpening.

Do you want a fixed frame or adjustable.
I'm thinking of fixed for a 24" bar a well as my 36" and if/when bigger another frame.

My .02c with the view for my own build (minus the full workshop)
 
I don't have a full workshop, just asking the questions.
Don't know what the bill mill is.

Most of the timber I mill is 54" and bigger, I currently use steel for my rails as the price they charge here is Aus for the Alaskan rails is ridiculous
 
I don't have a full workshop, just asking the questions.
Don't know what the bill mill is.

Most of the timber I mill is 54" and bigger, I currently use steel for my rails as the price they charge here is Aus for the Alaskan rails is ridiculous
Bobs "Brother In Law" welds aluminum, there's a link in his signature.

Uses a lot of the same listed ideas. :)

I agree on the rails$$$$
 
Let's say you have an Alaskan mill and a full workshop of fabricating equipment. What would you do to a standard Alaskan mill to make it better.

In standard form an Alaskan mill is an extremely basic piece of equipment, I have thought of a few things that could be improved/added to make it a better piece of equipment.
Spacing the rails further apart to main sharpening easier with remov the saw.

A four post setup that utilised threaded rods of some sort to allow for easier and more accurate height adjustment and better stability.

Wheels mounted to the power head end to allow smother running along the log.

Inbuilt provisions for a hand operated winch for millingarge diameter logs.

Av mounted handle to reduce vibrations to the operator.

Flip up magnet to remove bar sag before starting a wide cut.

Let me know your ideas

How'd you see my notebook?

Five of your six ideas are in it.
I wasn't worried about the vibe handle because of the winch.

At least you didn't see the next page.

I think a BIL MILL is one that will withstand loaning to your Brother-In-Law.

I do a little metal casting, may need to make some patterns.
Do away with the welding.
Have assembly line type parts.

How much market is there for a small guy to break into?
 
How'd you see my notebook?

Five of your six ideas are in it.
I wasn't worried about the vibe handle because of the winch.

At least you didn't see the next page.

I think a BIL MILL is one that will withstand loaning to your Brother-In-Law.

I do a little metal casting, may need to make some patterns.
Do away with the welding.
Have assembly line type parts.

How much market is there for a small guy to break into?

What's on the next page??

I don't think there is much of a market for a small guy as the pricing may not be competitive
 
Now lets see what the BIL mill has

Spacing the rails further apart to main sharpening easier with remov the saw.
Check,
It's not ONLY the rails that are better if they are wider apart but the long handle that goes across the top that gets in the way. On the BIL mill this is significant higher so it doesn't get in the way of filing.
This is BIL mill with the 076 attached
complete-mill2.jpg

A four post setup that utilised threaded rods of some sort to allow for easier and more accurate height adjustment and better stability.
The BIL mill is a 3 poster.
I do have a 4 poster mill - I have ever used it.
Jwheels2.jpg
Wheels mounted to the power head end to allow smother running along the log.
Wheel position is complex. The wheels should be available to position above or below the cut depending on which half of the log is being milled.
When milling the top half the wheels (A) should be below the bar when milling the bottom half (C) the wheels should be above the bar
This is what I have on the BIL mill
Wheels.jpg

Inbuilt provisions for a hand operated winch for millingarge diameter logs.
Tried winches and didn't like the physical disconnect from the powerhead.
Also I like to keep an eye on the tacho and temp gauge
hotidle.jpg
The best feel I have of the power heads on my mills is the MC throttle on the wrap handle - the position feels natural and is one of my best mods

Av mounted handle to reduce vibrations to the operator.
Check - see previous.

Flip up magnet to remove bar sag before starting a wide cut.
Check.
 
The reason for the winch bill is I commonl mill trees that are 60" plus and is extremely tiring trying to privide even pressure to both sides of the mill,
The most tiring part of CSM should be lifting the mill onto the rails and moving the slabs.
If the actual milling part is tiring then there's a few other things to look at.
All of my gear is setup for minimal effort because I'm a fat and lazy and over 60 and look for the least amount of work
The thing that I found made the most difference to arm and shoulder ache was the remote MC throttle with a throttle lock.
Then having a variety of handles high up on the mill so that I can change hand positions.
I stand up to the mill and lean with my thigh or hip on the wrap handle - arms for steering and legs for leaning

This log was 52" at the base - slight slope and once I had it started the mill cut several slabs without me touching it.
Admittedly if I was up front and personal about it the cut would have been faster.
Also I had access to a tractor that was able to get that log up onto a bit of a slope.
BUT
see that triangular thing leaning up against a fence - that's a modified kangaroo jack that will lift one end of a 6 ton log.
Chain sharpening is a critical factor.
bobsmillingstyle.jpg
 
The most tiring part of CSM should be lifting the mill onto the rails and moving the slabs.......
Chain sharpening is a critical factor.

Bob, great work.

You, scheffa and I have thought alot alike.
You've had more shop and mill time than I though.
I've let life interfere too much or I'm lazier.

Great site here, but seeing thread after thread with pictures of cats or img is very frustrating.

Looks like you've had some great projects but the big crash means I can't see them.

Thanks for posting.

Dave
 
Bobl I cannot get my mill to self feed no matter what I do! Chains are sharp and cutting well throwing chips, to be honest I haven't gone to the trouble of checking taker angles as I don't have the time or the patience
 
I have taken Bob's advise on board with sharpening and the saw feeds a lot easier even with 72" of Oregon 27RX.
Even the rail will feed it self on the downhill.
Thanks again Bob.
As for wheels? Sounds like we should try again got sick of removing them when in a tight spot.
 
Could the wheels be put on a spring and channel about 5-10cm long ??
But does that counter the idea of keeping the saw against the log
 
Could the wheels be put on a spring and channel about 5-10cm long ??
But does that counter the idea of keeping the saw against the log

Correct.

The most balanced across the log an alaskan style mill can be has the power head as close as possible (i.e. almost touching) the log.
To do this an inboard bar clamp cannot be used and the mill has to be bolted to the power head directly behind the line of contact between the power head and the log.
The wheels also meed to be mounted behind that line of contact so their outer rims protrude across the line.

This set of wheels were design to ride exactly at the same height as the bar and can be locked into ay position over an angle of about 120º.
Note how the mill bolts to the bar slightly behind the body of the 076
Wheels1.jpg Wheels2.jpg

Here it is with the 880 - the angle iron mounting piece for the 880 locates in a different position -no wheels on this one - yet.
880five.jpg
 

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