Milled Some more of the big white oak today

[Yellowbeard]

I'll post some video later. Per SDB777's request it's a (much) longer one than I usually post, though I shot it in HD and the camera ran out of storage before I got to the end.

Today's lesson: Yellowbeard realizes that a clean filter makes the saw run a lot better - just FYI.

Anybody use Max Flow much? I know there was one on this saw before (and looking at the prices, I now understand why it wasn't included in the sale .

Looks like about 80 bucks to get all the way into one. Then again, regular filters for this bad boy aren't all that cheap either. If I go that route, I assume I'll need to adjust the carb or it will run to lean on it's current settings. Correct?

 

[mdavlee]

Nice looking piece.

Get the max flow from madsens or Hlsparts. They're a lot cheaper than list price. Much longer cleaning intervals. Run without the cover also will help keep fines from plugging the filter as fast. You may have to adjust it a touch richer with the max flow. replacement filters for the the max flow are $14 also.

 

[mr.bear]

Put the max flow on it
What saw?


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[mdavlee]

084

 

[mr.bear]

http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.axd/ProductDetails?edp_no=917&catID=10909


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[Yellowbeard]

My understanding from this thread (http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/084-max-flow-filter.165760/) is that you also need an HD filter base (which I think I just realized is already on my saw, correct mdavlee?).

 

[mdavlee]

My understanding from this thread (http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/084-max-flow-filter.165760/) is that you also need an HD filter base (which I think I just realized is already on my saw, correct mdavlee?).

Yes all you need is the kit.

 

[Yellowbeard]

Milling I did this weekend. I already know there will be some criticism, so go ahead. At the downhill end I had a bear of a time getting around the width of the branches - really just barely made it.

White oak is HARD. I obviously need to file my rakers a bit - making dust. However, the cuts came out pretty well, I thought (pictures above are from AFTER this video). I ordered a Max Flo from Madsens - really great people to work with. Hopefully it will get here Saturday in the mail.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

 

[Ayatollah]

Milling I did this weekend. I already know there will be some criticism, so go ahead. At the downhill end I had a bear of a time getting around the width of the branches - really just barely made it.

White oak is HARD. I obviously need to file my rakers a bit - making dust. However, the cuts came out pretty well, I thought (pictures above are from AFTER this video). I ordered a Max Flo from Madsens - really great people to work with. Hopefully it will get here Saturday in the mail.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

Good gracious me! that one is hard

 

[SDB777]

Very cool chunk, and I understand the space requirements for HD-videoing! My quadcopter came with a GoPro Hero 3+ Silver and the 8gb card didn't last an entire flight....upgraded to a 64gb and it seems I can't put a dent into it recording all the time?

Where are the 'slabs' from this chunk?
Close-ups man, we need the real w00dp0rn here!!!!(just kidding, but grain close-ups are the money shots)

What you gonna make out of the chunks you're milling? Table tops come to mind real fast!




Can't really help with the filter thing, I'd love to look into some other options for my smaller saw too.


Scott (what happened to all the Ebola talk) B

 

[Yellowbeard]

This pics up top are of the cuts I was making. I don't have any water on site and neglected to bring my broom. Next time I will try and remember the broom and will get some close-ups.

The chunks belong to the client I am cutting them for (traded for the cost of my new bar, chains, and other expenses). I am hoping to end up with one of them though.

If I do, DEFINITELY table top (which is what the client is doing with them as well, I think).

 

[Yellowbeard]

Finished my first professional job today. Took a lot longer than it should have and I probably didn't make nearly enough, but I like how things turned out. See what you think.

Think these will be OK stacked where they are shown until May? I wasn't sure about that. Advice welcome. I sure hope I end up with one of those slabs.

 

[mdavlee]

Nice slabs. I wish I could find a log that size around here that's not got a 2' Holbein the center.

 

[BobL]

Good on you for tackling this one and turning it into something useful and thanks for posting the vids and pics.
When I stack them on bear ground near where I cut I usually try to get then a bit higher off the ground.

From the amount of fine dust visible on the vid it really does look like your rakers were too high. Are you using progressive raker settings and how often are you touching up?
I also see some see-sawing action even at the start of the cut and this is then evident in the finish.

An auxillary throttle (or even just a cable tie) and higher handles will allow you to stand up close to the saw and allow you to use your thigh and hip as the pressure point on the wrap handle like this. I find this makes lit a lot easier on my arms and shoulders. It's understandable that some folks don't want to stand so close for safety reasons but once the bar is buried in the wood the risk of any problems is low.


This is a smallish but relatively hard (It will be much harder than your oak) and dry log (hence the fine dust) but even on logs like this I only clean (knock out) the air filter about once in the middle of the day.
On your video I see occasionally the dust is blowing back towards you which doesn't help. Probably not that much you can always do about this.

 

[Yellowbeard]

BobL, as always, thanks for the advice.

I, too, noticed a LOT of seesawing in the video (more than I thought I was doing - I try and look out for that). Part of it (toward the bottom of the cut) was me trying to get around a particularly wide part of the wood, but much of it was just unnecessary and I will have to learn. Luckily, the cuts were pretty good with little wash boarding (at least, for me - I am sure it's terrible compared to others on here).

I had just had that chain sharpened at the local shop. They tend to set the rakers too high and had done so again this day. However, I was 30 minutes out of town and so decided to just keep cutting even though I knew that dust was too fine. FINALLY got some really good chips today after I had sharpened on my own a couple of times. By the way, sharpening between cuts is DEFINITELY worth the time, I found. On this log, it might ALMOST have been worth sharpening at the midway point (though sharpening a 60" bar takes a bit of time). Frankly, however, I need a LOT more experience in sharpening generally and am no expert at setting rakers.

I'm not really scared to get right up next to it, and I kept meaning to bring some zip ties to tie the throttle but kept forgetting. I DO want some chaps the next time because if the chain were to break, well, let's just say there are a lot of parts I am fond of at about that level.

I would like them to be higher off the ground but had limited resources at the client's land. There is a barn nearby where they are meant to go but the client is out of town until May. I may go back out and move them into the dry if necessary - would HATE to see this wood go bad.

Very much appreciate the diagram - hadn't ever considered using my hip. I have another (even bigger) white oak coming up down at my boss's place. He wants one slab and will trade the rest of the trunk to get it so I guess I'm once again going to have to find space for more wood. I am going to have to build a solar kiln soon if I ever want to use any of this.

 

[betterbuilt]

Those slabs should be fine outside. I'd trade the tarp out for some tin with some sort of weight on it. I usually weight and tie ropes around them just incase. The tarps end up leaking and you'll end up with wet spots. Awesome White Oak.

 

[BobL]

I, too, noticed a LOT of seesawing in the video (more than I thought I was doing - I try and look out for that). Part of it (toward the bottom of the cut) was me trying to get around a particularly wide part of the wood, but much of it was just unnecessary and I will have to learn. Luckily, the cuts were pretty good with little wash boarding (at least, for me - I am sure it's terrible compared to others on here).

That's one of the benefits of videoing yourself.
There's always a temptation to see-saw especially at the end of a cut but it makes little difference to the cutting time and any time saved now will be lost in the greater need to fix up the gouges generated later.

I had just had that chain sharpened at the local shop. They tend to set the rakers too high and had done so again this day. However, I was 30 minutes out of town and so decided to just keep cutting even though I knew that dust was too fine. FINALLY got some really good chips today after I had sharpened on my own a couple of times. By the way, sharpening between cuts is DEFINITELY worth the time, I found. On this log, it might ALMOST have been worth sharpening at the midway point (though sharpening a 60" bar takes a bit of time). Frankly, however, I need a LOT more experience in sharpening generally and am no expert at setting rakers..

In your case I would use my old dad's method (He was pro timber faller in the 50's and 60's)," when you see dust, take 3 swipes off the rakers and try again till you see chips".

I'm not really scared to get right up next to it, and I kept meaning to bring some zip ties to tie the throttle but kept forgetting. I DO want some chaps the next time because if the chain were to break, well, let's just say there are a lot of parts I am fond of at about that level.

I don't think chaps are necessary while milling. the half dozen or so my chains have come off or broken, on the mill have been a non-event. Even though there is not much there there seems to be enough sawdust in the kerf to stop the chain coming out of the cut. The main reason I wear chaps is that there may be a need to use a saw to trim up a log or a slab etc and then I'm in a hurry and I will be slack and not stop to put them on. I did that a couple of years ago with a small saw and the chain came off and smacked me fair between the legs. I was lucky. All I got was a large bruise on my inner thigh and a skin nick on my right knee.

 

[Mad Professor]

Nice slabs.

Keep them up off the ground and I'd add a few more stickers. End coat them and keep out of direct sunlight to help prevent checking.

Plastic corrugated roofing makes a good cover for lumber piles and it won't stain like metal does.

 

[steve easy]

Get your head around raker settings or

In your case I would use my old dad's method (He was pro timber faller in the 50's and 60's)," when you see dust, take 3 swipes off the rakers and try again till you see chips".

.
The advice i was given as far as chains go was to sharpen little and often and keep it simple. I wouldnt lock the throttle. Run a remote throttle over to the aux oiler end and stand on that side of log. Grab a handfull of throttle and let the saw show you which way it wants to chew through, if you have to push your sharpening is not correct.

 

[BobL]

I've experimented with a lot of remote throttle positions (including on the other side of the mill) and the best one I reckon by far is the MC throttle with the built in kill switch attached to the wrap handle.
Even though it's on the wrap handle it still provides an excellent "saw feel" and a very comfortable milling stance and throttle action.
It also has a throttle lock which I use all the time (its that little knurled brass knob on the side of the throttle) .
I often lock the throttle and adjust the pressure on the wrap handle with my thigh or hip so the tacho sits at about 8.5k
This leaves my hands free to add wedges and adjust oll flow etc


On the occasional use of my 441 I use a cable tie for long cuts. not as good as the MC throttle