Milling 42" DBH Pecan Any Advice?

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Edwin Bonneau

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First time messing with an Alaskan Mill and it's a big project. I have the first pass out of the way and plan to knock out the rest in the next few weekends.

This tree fell at my granddads property and I want the lumber for use down the road. I want a piece of history in some future furniture

Here are the details.

42" DBH Pecan ~22' (there is a split on the last 4')

Plans
- 2"-4" Thick Slabs
- Sticker the Stack
- Seal the Ends
- Store outdoors, off the ground, under an open shed out of sun and rain.
- Was told 1 yr for each 1" thick for drying

Things I worry about.
- Bugs
- Warping
- Checking
- Overall usability of slabs (am I slabbing the right thickness)
- Moving slabs ( I have 20' flatbed trailer tandem axle)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have done a tone of googling but want to make sure I cover every base. This lumber has a lot of nostalgia and I want to preserve it the best I can.
 

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Another picture. I have a 046 (thanks for the help identifying cgraham1) that I used for the first pass. I am going to get a 066 with big bore kit to finish the project and try not to burn it up. I am using a 52" bar with ripping chain on panther pro saw mill.
 

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You will have some really nice slabs. Looks like there is /was some metal in the center - I see a blue stain in the first photo.
As for drying, I have also been told one year per inch but I would let it go at least a couple years longer - more if you aren't in a hurry.

Oh yeah, save the cut offs for the smoker!
 
Looks like you have it under control. Get one end up off the ground and let gravity help, use your guide rails on each cut, and watch for the metal in the log, are the only pointers I have. Looks like pretty wood, keep the pics coming, Joe.
 
Good work Eric.

From the chain marks on your cut it looks like you are sideways see sawing the log down the cut.
Apparent speed of cutting improvement by seesawing is a misleading. If you perform timed cuts you will see it makes little difference.
The result of sideways seesawing is the CSM tilts slightly in the cut and produces a rougher finish that takes more time to get out with a thicknesser or sander.
To produce the best finish I find it's much better to maintain a constant angle across the cut all the way around the log.
If you have to work your way around a knot or branch then slow down and reduce the pressure on the saw when you change cutting angles.

Seesaw.jpg
 
I'll throw something in re: checking. You need to seal the ends of the log immediately rather than after you mill. It's easier now, and the sooner you do so the sooner you'll arrest any tendency to split. I just use whatever can of latex (or other) leftover paint I have lying around but I am sure there are people who might have other opinions on that. I was going to mention metal too but buzz beat me to it. Either cut around it or be ready to file. Personally, I like the dark bluing that it imparts in the wood but hitting a nail always sucks.

Once they're stacked and stickered you probably should strap them to reduce warping. Looks like a beautiful log.
 
Get the log ends sealed with ANCHORSEAL, NOW, it's much easier to do it now and the sooner it's put on the log the better!

SR
 
Do you have any plans of what you want to make with the wood later?
 
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