Milling Green Redgum

[Yeastbeast]

G'day everyone,

I seem to have got my 880 and mill up to an almost usable standard. Most of the wood I've been milling is green to some degree because redgum takes almost forever to dry out unless it's cut. I'm just wondering how the best way to go about things from here is.

Primarily, I'd like to find some long, straight trunks and simply take off the sides to make a big square post. I'm hoping to one day build a house with these as uprights and rafters, with paddock stone as walls. I'm thinking sizes in order of 12-16" square and about 16 feet long.

I'm also interested in making some decent sized rectangular timbers - 4x8"s, 6x6"s and so on

Lastly, I'll be making some slabs for table tops, bars and furniture.

I've been reading up what I can on stickering and such but haven't been able to find exactly what I'm looking for.

With the big posts, will they be alright to simply let dry of their own accord?

With the rectangular members, will they need binding and stacking?

I was planning to stack and bind the best slabs, but on some ones like in the photo below, will they be ok to make outdoor furniture straight off the mill?

I have access to some good dry trunks as well, they won't need any seasoning at all I assume?

I was a bit disappointed to find the trunk so hollow on this tree, I should be able to get some decent timber out around it I'm hoping.

Cheers everybody

 

[BobL]

I like the seat!

Anything cut needs stickering and drying out on a flat surface but if the timber contains the heart in the middle and is big enough it will not need binding.

 

[Yeastbeast]

I like the seat!

Anything cut needs stickering and drying out on a flat surface but if the timber contains the heart in the middle and is big enough it will not need binding.

So given that I cut the timber in the chair and built it on the same day, am I likely to have serious warpage issues?

 

[Yeastbeast]

I cut most of the good part of the log into slabs today. Couldn't seem to get the cut perfectly flat. It looked good, but no matter what I tried, when I put my guide rails back on it they wouldn't sit flat. Probably acceptable but I'm a bit of a perfectionist. Should have taken some more photos, but didn't.

 

[angusjones8]

Is that a fendt 716? I drive a 916 for work.


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[Yeastbeast]

Is that a fendt 716? I drive a 916 for work.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's actually an 818. We've got a 711 and and 927 as well. Love them.

 

[Stihlman441]

I have found if you seal the ends with paint helps to stop the cracking splitting when drying.dont ya just love that redgum dust ha ha

 

[BobL]

Couldn't seem to get the cut perfectly flat. It looked good, but no matter what I tried, when I put my guide rails back on it they wouldn't sit flat. Probably acceptable but I'm a bit of a perfectionist. Should have taken some more photos, but didn't. View attachment 437157View attachment 437157 View attachment 437158

Once a twist sets in it needs some positive action to remove it.

To control the twist, especially on the first cut, I use a digital angle finder (DAF).
Place the DAF on a straight piece of something across the rails and ZERO the DAF


Take an angle measurement at the other end and then insert thin wedges under the rails to get the second angle back to zero.
If I want to make really flat slabs I do this and use the log rails for every cut.

 

[Yeastbeast]

Here's todays effort. This tree was ringbarked around the turn of the century (not this one). The base and bottom of the trunk was rotten unfortunately, but I was able to get some usable timber out of the top half. This is really only the second attempt with the mill so I'm still learning how it works.

• The main problem I had was I have to push the mill with more force than I would have thought necessary. Not jamming it though, but it doesn't really self feed at all. Enough that I get a bit of a cramp in arm, kinda like if you were to hold your arm outstretched for a period of time.
• Brand new 3 skip milling chain off Laurie. I took the rakers down a fair way after the first cut. They are probably down 40 thou. The chainsaw seems to sit there peaking without loading up, unless I give it a bit of force.
• The mill seems fairly good at rattling bolts lose. I lost the bolt on one depth setting- one slab is tapers down from 3" to 5" on one side towards the end.
• I still seem to have a dip of a few mm on the far end of the slab, far side.
• I should bring a chair to sit on while I bbq my lunch.
• My aux oiler is substandard
• The mill possibly seems to jump around during the cut instead of cutting smoothly-probably didn't help I took the rakers down so far
• Don't cut 25mm slabs with 45mm screws holding the log rails in
• Tensioning the chain seems a bit finicky- I suppose this is the norm with big bars
• Ended up with the top cap which was a good thickness, 1 good 3" slab, 1 ok 3" slab , the tapered slab, and a 25mm thick one.

If anyone can help me on any of these things it would be much appreciated. I'm going back tomorrow to do a bit more hope to do a better job.

 

[Yeastbeast]

Once a twist sets in it needs some positive action to remove it.

To control the twist, especially on the first cut, I use a digital angle finder (DAF).
Place the DAF on a straight piece of something across the rails and ZERO the DAF
View attachment 439739

Take an angle measurement at the other end and then insert thin wedges under the rails to get the second angle back to zero.
If I want to make really flat slabs I do this and use the log rails for every cut.

I need to do something like that I reckon. Gotta get the basics sorted out first.

 

[abbott295]

You need to get one end of the log higher so gravity will help pull the mill forward and chain needs to be kept sharp. BobL can advise you on just what that means in Australian woods. Try attaching your auxiliary oiler to the upright so you get more height also should improve the flow a bit. A couple suggestions I can make.

 

[Yeastbeast]

You need to get one end of the log higher so gravity will help pull the mill forward and chain needs to be kept sharp. BobL can advise you on just what that means in Australian woods. Try attaching your auxiliary oiler to the upright so you get more height also should improve the flow a bit. A couple suggestions I can make.

Yeah, I should try lifting one end but I did on another log and and it didn't appear to make a noticeable difference which makes me think the problem might be elsewhere. A mate suggested my bar may not be parallel to the cut which I'll have to check out tomorrow.
The chain should be pretty good. I filed it after every cut and the rakers are well down. I originally had the oiler upright but it still wasn't flowing great so I moved it where I could reach it a bit easier and give it a squeeze to force a bit through.
Cheers for the suggestions.

 

[BobL]

The main problem I had was I have to push the mill with more force than I would have thought necessary. Not jamming it though, but it doesn't really self feed at all. Enough that I get a bit of a cramp in arm, kinda like if you were to hold your arm outstretched for a period of time.

Have you got enough hook on the cutters, standard chain usually does not have enough hook. Have a look at how much hook Will Malloff uses on his chains.
Too much raker removal will also reduce self feeding

Brand new 3 skip milling chain off Laurie. I took the rakers down a fair way after the first cut. They are probably down 40 thou. The chainsaw seems to sit there peaking without loading up, unless I give it a bit of force.

Somethings is not right - it sounds like the bar might not be parallel to the mill rails.

The mill seems fairly good at rattling bolts lose. I lost the bolt on one depth setting- one slab is tapers down from 3" to 5" on one side towards the end.

That's Normal - get some loctite on the job

I still seem to have a dip of a few mm on the far end of the slab, far side.

You mill may be too flexible for the saw and the rakers are too low making too much vibe and rattling everything around too much.

I should bring a chair to sit on while I bbq my lunch.

I have used one to sit in while milling.

My aux oiler is substandard

Yes it is too low. When it is that low the differential flow caused from small height changes will be significant.

The mill possibly seems to jump around during the cut instead of cutting smoothly-probably didn't help I took the rakers down so far

Yep - too far

Don't cut 25mm slabs with 45mm screws holding the log rails in

I would avoid cutting 25 mm slabs with a CSM - too much wood getting turned into sawdust

Tensioning the chain seems a bit finicky- I suppose this is the norm with big bars

It takes a while for a new chain to stretch and settle in but even so milling heats and expands the chain up way faster than the bar so it seems to go loose very quickly. Good aux oiling is critical at this point as dumped bar oil is an important heat remover.
I avoid "fanging" the start of any first cut till I am about 1/4 way through the log.
Remember to release the tension at the end of the day.

Post a side on closer up pic of some of your cutters - we might find something there.

 

[Jimbo209]

Look for bobs diy aux oiler. I get none to little stretch once used with canola from woolies

 

[Yeastbeast]

Cheers Bob, you're a wealth of good information.
I've made the mill out of 25x1.6 RHS. It was only a prototype to see how things panned out. Would you think 30x2 would be better for the next one?
I was thinking I'll do away with the length adjustment. I'll make one mill per bar length.
I think the main reason the aux oiler isn't flowing well is the oil is to viscous. I got 1/8 fuel hose on the anticipation of using canola oil, then I read that was a bit dodgy as bar oil so filled it up with engine oil. Is it best to dump a fair bit of oil rather than what you might expect for a normal chainsaw not milling?

 

[Boon]

Remember to release the tension at the end of the day.

Why is that ?

 

[BobL]

Cheers Bob, you're a wealth of good information.
I've made the mill out of 25x1.6 RHS. It was only a prototype to see how things panned out. Would you think 30x2 would be better for the next one?

Yep. Even my small (24") mill is made with 2 mm thick stuff. this mill is made with a a mix of 2 and 3 mm steel

I was thinking I'll do away with the length adjustment. I'll make one mill per bar length.

That's up to you.

I think the main reason the aux oiler isn't flowing well is the oil is to viscous. I got 1/8 fuel hose on the anticipation of using canola oil, then I read that was a bit dodgy as bar oil so filled it up with engine oil.

Canola is fine in an aux oiler, in fact it's better at removing heat than plain mineral oil. I wouldn't use canola in the saw itself as long term it makes a mess and can gum up the oil pump.
I wouldn't use engine oil in a saw either as it is not sticky enough (there is a difference between viscosity and stickiness) . If your bar oil is too thick try mixing a little bit of diesel with it - you won't need much.

Is it best to dump a fair bit of oil rather than what you might expect for a normal chainsaw not milling?

Yep - I like to see a small pool of oil on the bar like this.

Why is that ?

If you have inadvertently tightened the chain when it was hot and the bar was cool, then when he chain cools down it will shrink and apply a lot of force on the drive sprocket shaft and bearing and it could damage them.[/quote][/quote]

 

[Yeastbeast]

Somethings is not right - it sounds like the bar might not be parallel to the mill rails.

Reckon you might have been on the money there Bob. I had a measure and the if I ran a straight edge across the bar, underneath the front rail was about 5 or 6mm closer than the rear. The question is how to fix this? I was thinking at this stage the answer might be to weld a longer piece of 30mm RHS that the 25mm depth tubes drop into.

 

[BobL]

Reckon you might have been on the money there Bob. I had a measure and the if I ran a straight edge across the bar, underneath the front rail was about 5 or 6mm closer than the rear. The question is how to fix this? I was thinking at this stage the answer might be to weld a longer piece of 30mm RHS that the 25mm depth tubes drop into.

Correcting a crooked mill can be tricky.
This is why I reckon an all welded mill is not as good as a bolted one where all the angles can be adjusted.
Even my BIL who did the ally welding for the BIL mill and guaranteed me he could get it dead flat agreed it was better to allow for adjustments to be made.
That way if things got twisted later it would only be a matter of replacing one or two bits.

 

[Yeastbeast]

Correcting a crooked mill can be tricky.
This is why I reckon an all welded mill is not as good as a bolted one where all the angles can be adjusted.
Even my BIL who did the ally welding for the BIL mill and guaranteed me he could get it dead flat agreed it was better to allow for adjustments to be made.
That way if things got twisted later it would only be a matter of replacing one or two bits.

Bit of cutting and shutting and it works a treat.