Minimum chainsaw bar length

[flashhole]

Looking at that big saw with a small bar makes me think of Tim Allen on Tool Time ... grunt .... more power!!!!

 

[ncfarmboy]

Here is another cheap option look for an old Poulan 25DA. Lots of grunt, very good saws and designed for short bars.
Shep

 

[deye223]

It was explained to me not to go to short to prevent over revving the saw. If you go below the recommended length there may not be enough load on the saw, and as such you could rev it past the the limits of the engine. Same reason you should never reva a power head w/no b&c attached.

That said you can do it. Just don't hold it WOT for any long periods of time.

Of course like the others here a top handle would serve you better. You are likely on a ladder in the orchard as fruit trees really can't support someone int eh tree... You are in tight quarters and could be working w/ the saw at or above head level. A top-handle is designed for his type work.


dw

no probs just take ya rakers waay down TO SUIT

 

[Guido Salvage]

While I have several Stihl top handle saws, I also like this Homelite as it has both the front and rear triggers.

 

[deye223]

While I have several Stihl top handle saws, I also like this Homelite as it has both the front and rear triggers.

is it twice as fast HAHA :msp_thumbsup:

 

[Eric106]

While I have several Stihl top handle saws, I also like this Homelite as it has both the front and rear triggers.

I have three Homelites like that, a running one and two for parts. One I inherited and two that were picked up for free because they didn't run right. I used the best parts of each to put one good one back together. I think at least some of mine are labeled XL-II Automatic or something like that. I'm not sure what the difference is between the models.

I'm pretty sure I need to rebuild the carb though because it just doesn't want to idle right. It will be fine for a while then it will die. When it does die the only way to get it started again is with starting fluid. You can pull as much as you want without it and it won't start. But, if you use a squirt of starting fluid it will fire right back again up and run strong.

I really like the combination top and rear handle and wish you could get one like that today (preferably if it was made by Stihl).

-Eric

 

[flashhole]

How heavy is that thing? There are several for sale on evilBay.

 

[ale]

short bars rock!

 

[drumbum]

How heavy is that thing? There are several for sale on evilBay.

Like 9 & a half pounds ready to cut. 31cc's

 

[ale]

 

[flashhole]

That's sweet. I thought I'd located a suitable bar for my 55 Rancher but I was wrong. First time in recorded history but the one I was looking at won't fit my saw. Still looking. I think I will just take a Husky bar to the local Stihl shop and compare mounts and see what they have. The bar on it now is an 18" Rollomatic.

 

[SawTroll]

You can run as short a bar as you can find as long as it matches your mount and sprocket.

Yes, but at some point the risk of a kickback will get too high, unless the user really knows what he is doing. That likely is the main reason they aren't offered in .325.

13" bars are by far the most popular length in .325 on 40 to 50cc saws here - but I am not a fan of them on 50cc saws - while 12" ones mostly exist in 3/8" lo-pro.

 

[flashhole]

So what is special about the "lo-pro"? My saw has a 3/8 sprocket.