Moisture Meter Readings

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CSS two summers replaced my moisture meter.

I don't rely on my moisture meter for anything. I just like to see how things progress throughout the year and try out different methods for drying. I have no shortage of good dry wood to burn this coming winter, and have more than enough to carry me through the next 2-3 years no problem.
 
It is nice to have as a baseline and to see how things are coming along. These most recent tests were for my fire pit supply which obviously doesn't need to be dried below 15 percent as long as I have a few dry pieces to get the thing started. I'm still amazed that nice sized splits are below 20 percent while 1-2" rounds are boiling water out of the ends.
 
It is nice to have as a baseline and to see how things are coming along. These most recent tests were for my fire pit supply which obviously doesn't need to be dried below 15 percent as long as I have a few dry pieces to get the thing started. I'm still amazed that nice sized splits are below 20 percent while 1-2" rounds are boiling water out of the ends.

I had always heard that wood looses a majority of moisture through the grain ends, but your measurements seem to go against that theory.
 
I had always heard that wood looses a majority of moisture through the grain ends, but your measurements seem to go against that theory.
If that were true, splitting wouldn't be that important.
 
I tell you what, for certain purposes you don't want long burning wood and something like silver maple is great. Like the last load of the night in a firepit. I don't like to put my fires out with a big bunch of unburned wood so I'm sitting there half in the bag and half asleep waiting for the last of the oak to burn down and it takes forever!!
+1. The only complaint I have ever had when selling bundled campfire wood is the day I added some oak and locust to a few bundles. The bundles were (1) too heavy to carry, (2) the fire was hard to start, and (3) the fire lasted too long. The "premium" wood got the worst review.

So, cottonwood, basswood, soft maple, and willow work the best around here and are in very high demand for campfires. They also throw very few sparks. I just be sure the logs are dead dry, and when these wood varieties are split, they dry fast.
 
+1. The only complaint I have ever had when selling bundled campfire wood is the day I added some oak and locust to a few bundles. The bundles were (1) too heavy to carry, (2) the fire was hard to start, and (3) the fire lasted too long. The "premium" wood got the worst review.

So, cottonwood, basswood, soft maple, and willow work the best around here and are in very high demand for campfires. They also throw very few sparks. I just be sure the logs are dead dry, and when these wood varieties are split, they dry fast.
Variety stores and gas stations all sell campfire wood around here but I should start selling it too I guess seeing as I turn down enough White Pine and Black and White Spruce cutting all the time.
 
Splitting makes the difference in wood moisture lose.
Tree bark is a great skin and can keep the moisture inside that little round for a long time.
It's best to split all that you can to help the drying process.
I split even some of my kindling sized rounds.....when I have the time.
Some unsplit logs take forever to dry, especially if stored inside a garage. In that case, the heartwood can rot before it ever dries, especially if the bark is tight. Hackberry and birch come to mind.
 
I burn mostly red oak on a two year cycle here in central Jersey. It usually gets down to 20% or less (measured in the middle of the split) in two years. If I had a large enough supply and could get ahead, three years would be ideal. My splits are 20" which doesn't help matters.
 
I burn mostly red oak on a two year cycle here in central Jersey. It usually gets down to 20% or less (measured in the middle of the split) in two years. If I had a large enough supply and could get ahead, three years would be ideal. My splits are 20" which doesn't help matters.
Nothing wrong with 20" splits. A 20" split will dry at about the same rate as an 18" split. Split is split.
 
I think a MM is just that a curiosity thing to see how things are going.
A dozen measures and average the bunch are sure to get you pretty close to reality.
Me my small hammer speaks loads about moisture, a pretty distinctive ring when things are dry.

All good though and like lots of firewood related things it seems more of a feel thing than a technical # :)
 
I think a MM is just that a curiosity thing to see how things are going.
A dozen measures and average the bunch are sure to get you pretty close to reality.
Me my small hammer speaks loads about moisture, a pretty distinctive ring when things are dry.

All good though and like lots of firewood related things it seems more of a feel thing than a technical # :)
My MLB Test: clank two logs together. When they sound like an MLB hardball hit by a bat swung by an MLB player, the two logs are probably dry and ready to burn. It will sound a lot like your small hammer.

BTW: A dozen measures by a defective MM will yield a dozen erroneous measures.
 
Here are today's findings.

Standing dead black cherry 27%
Live box elder 31%

Both surprised me as I expected the cherry to be much drier and the BE much higher. No wonder why it seasons so quickly.
 

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