Most efficient size Granberg Mill?

[New Hampster]

I am in the market for a Granberg Mill and saw combo.
My goal is to build a semi-permanent cabin, roughly 14x20. 12 pitch roof with dormer and loft.
Perhaps also some out buildings, portico, wood shed...etc.
I have no interest at this point to mill exotic wide slabs, but to basically produce as much common lumber in the shortest amount of time. My thought is that I will be dropping and milling trees in place, as there is an entire function and cost of skidding and transporting logs I do not want to undertake.
What is the most efficient saw/bar/mill set-up, from manipulating logs, milling to squaring, processing...etc.?
Any insight is appreciated.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

The most efficient chainsaw mill for dimensional lumber that I know of will be a 60cc saw and a Ripsaw mill IF your logs aren't over about 20" diameter. I believe the ripsaw does a max of 14" in width, so after you square the log, it'll be big enough. An alaskan mill is much cheaper than the ripsaw but requires a larger chainsaw that partially offsets the cheaper cost of the mill and is slower (not as efficient) at producing lumber. How big are the logs you anticipate needing to mill and what species?

 

[BobL]

Depending on log size I agree about the 60cc saw and rip saw.
If you can only afford a CSM then a quality brand 70cc saw with a 28" bar and if you can work this out, a low pro chain and sprocket will be the cheapest/smallest I would recommend.

 

[JS929]

I don't know how much knowledge you have on CSM's, but if you're milling say 20" logs max with a Granberg, then be sure to get a bar that is around 4-6" longer than the width of the mill so you can max out the length on the CSM as you lose a few inches due to the design of the mill. I just went with a 36" mill when I started mounted to a 36" bar on a new 660. That gave me about 32" of cutting width. I would rather have the extra width for that occasional big tree than to have to pass. You could always get the mini mill, and use it in conjunction with the Granberg if you want to quarter saw as opposed to plain saw. Quarter sawn stuff doesn't move near as much when air drying.

I personally would get as big of a saw as you can afford. Everyone has a different opinion on that though. Personally I think a 460 would be a little underpowered on logs over 16-18". That means longer cut times and more wear and tear on the saw. You can get a used 660 cheaper than a new 460 or 372. There is a guy on here with a 390xp for $425 or so. It needs a little love, but it would make a great mill saw. With my 660, once I get a log squared and cants removed, my 660 will rip pine 8x8's out of a 8" thick slab at a rate of at least 5 feet per minute. It cuts so fast. It is slow though when cutting a 30" wide log. It take around 10-15 minutes, depending on the species of tree, to cut a 10' board at that point.

 

[mad murdock]

BobL has given you a great recommendation. A lot depends on average size and species of logs you will be using. But at a minimum I would start with what he recommended and go up from there. Low profile or narrow kerf chain and bar is a key to efficient CSM setup.

 

[Mainemiller]

I have an older 044 and 24" mill and in softwood you'd be surprised how well it moves through it. Hardwoods are a different story. Milling 6x6 or 8x8 it's pretty efficient but you start to go a little crazy trying to mill something like 1" boarding. Definitely get a mini mill for vertical cuts so you don't have to flip the log and reset guides and such as much. I've since gotten a woodmizer so the CSM is sitting idle for dimensional stuff. I'm in the process of turning it into a wide slab beast but not there yet.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I've used my 372 in 16" eastern red cedar (juniper) with no problems. It is the 75cc version though and has been fiddled with.

 

[New Hampster]

The most efficient chainsaw mill for dimensional lumber that I know of will be a 60cc saw and a Ripsaw mill IF your logs aren't over about 20" diameter. I believe the ripsaw does a max of 14" in width, so after you square the log, it'll be big enough. An alaskan mill is much cheaper than the ripsaw but requires a larger chainsaw that partially offsets the cheaper cost of the mill and is slower (not as efficient) at producing lumber. How big are the logs you anticipate needing to mill and what species?

Awesome. Never even heard of a ripsaw mill.
I imagine, since I'll have access to 3,633 acres of forest, whatever size logs I want. Mostly lodgepole, ponderosa, douglas fir and Black and Live oak. I currently have a 357xp and looking at a 390/394/395xp for the mill. I need something reliable, that's not going to need major rebuild for a couple years.
I am a newb with CSM's, but have been building houses for 20 years, so I know what required in terms of lumber. I just want the fastest production possible and have no interest in 36" logs at this point. 30" will be absolute max. I also have all the time and patience in the world, so set-ups are not a big deal.
I imagine I'm going to be needing quite a bit of 3/4-1" stock for sheathing material.
What's a good thin kerf bar and rip chain combo? I want both a full house (smoother finish) and full skip (rough cut) chains.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I watched a couple vids of a 90+cc saw really making some time through a medium sized pine. I've never milled any pine and was amazed. I've done the cedar and a big maple and it wasn't nearly so quick as that setup. It was kinda like the logosol M8

 

[New Hampster]

I watched a couple vids of a 90+cc saw really making some time through a medium sized pine. I've never milled any pine and was amazed. I've done the cedar and a big maple and it wasn't nearly so quick as that setup. It was kinda like the logosol M8

I'm trying to avoid any system that doesn't lock the end of the bar in. They seem to drift from all the videos I've seen. Not very accurate.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I think the speed was more to do with the saw and the pine than the mill it was in. It should do the same in an Alaskan.

 

[mad murdock]

A logosol cuts remarkably true lumber. I have both an Alaskan MK III and a Bumblebee CSM, which cuts with the bar oriented vertically and not supported on the tip. It cuts real straight as well. I have cut real good lumber on the Alaskan, and I have turned out some garbage- more depends on the setup and the condition and trueness of the bar and chain than anything.

 

[betterbuilt]

I think if I had access to that much wood I'd just buy a bandsaw. It just sounds like a better investment in my opinion.

 

[New Hampster]

I think if I had access to that much wood I'd just buy a bandsaw. It just sounds like a better investment in my opinion.

It's starting to look that way, but I only have so much money before I relocate to California and I just need to build a cabin first and foremost before I establish a line of income.

 

[crzybowhntr]

Buy the bandsaw mill, build your cabin, out buildings, out house, barn, etc. Then sell the mill. Probably a lot of time, effort, fuel, oil, frustration saved.

Just my thought...

 

[New Hampster]

Buy the bandsaw mill, build your cabin, out buildings, out house, barn, etc. Then sell the mill. Probably a lot of time, effort, fuel, oil, frustration saved.

Just my thought...

You going to front me the money? I'll pay you back according to your plan.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Get a credit card and make minimum payments till you're done with it, it's the American way!

 

[New Hampster]

Get a credit card and make minimum payments till you're done with it, it's the American way!

No thanks. If you haven't been informed yet, America is financially ****ed because of standard "way". That's not fiscally conservative.
I avoid credit because I have respect and Love for our troops, who end up getting killed over bankers perverted agendas. Financed by...you guessed it, interest and fees.
So, how about that loan?

 

[Haywire Haywood]

You said you wanted to avoid credit and then asked me for a loan. LOL I charge interest and fees don't ya know.

 

[betterbuilt]

By all means get a chainsaw mill. I just think a bandsaw is a better investment if you not planning on making Slabs. For years I had bandsaws come to my sites and mill like 800-1000 bft for $200. I'm sure it's more now but If you were ready for them you could make it worth the cost. I was just trying to save you some time a possibly money by advising you to buy a mill. If I was to go back, I'd have bought a bandsaw mill a long time ago. I have 2 friends with mills now so I really don't need one.