Multi wedge splitter strength

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milkie62

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I have a 4x24 cylinder with 2 stage pump that will split anything thrown at it. I see the multi-wedge setups doing pretty well EXCEPT all the videos are straight grain wood and their wedges seem to be super thin. Now do most multi wedge setups begin to bind when hitting a knot or crotch in maple,oak and elm ? I had to grind my 4 way back aways since it was always hitting relief pressure (2350) and jamming. Seems like at the fairs all demos are "easy" wood.
 
there are probably as many wedge designs as there are folks building wedges. Most will stagger the cutting edges so that the log isnt contacting all the many wings at the same time. Sharpening just one edge of a wedge and angleing them so that there is more distance separating the wedges in the back than there is at the point of contact also helps with binding issues. I use a 6way on my splitter. I used flat metal and just sharpened the edges instead of making the wedge sharp on the edge and fat in the back. Some folks seem to think a fat wedge will pop the wood faster, and it probably does on clean straight wood. On knotty twisted wood. A straight knife will slice thru the knots where a fat wedge will bind and get stuck. If you come up with a perfect wedge design, I am sure there is more than just a few folks that would like to see it.
 
I know of one Timberwolf processor that has a 4 x 24 cylinder and he runs a 4 way continuously.
Mine has a 4" cylinder.
I run a 4 way on smaller stuff (sub 14") and take it off for the larger stuff until I get it quartered up.
We cut our wood long, 24-30" , splitter opening between knife and pusher is 31.5"
I have a 6 way and it only get's used for the right wood, short straight grained.
 
Seems most processors run the narrower wedges. The guys doing tree service monsters seem to use both styles. My TW-6 has an easily lift off four-way and I have taken it off several times to halve nasty stuff. Why? Because several have posted on here four-way wedges that they have tore up, including a Timberwolf four-way. If it is a nasty piece you might get to use half of it when your done. The rest is better cut with a saw if you want to mess with it, as splitting that stuff just makes junk wood. When I get a few pieces of that stuff I cut it up with a saw to manageable pieces and give it away to a guy with a boiler who is glad to take it. It does not make good stove wood. I use my equipment, but I don't abuse it for a cheap thrill to see what it can do. Using the proper tool for the job is just good sense. Cutting tools for cutting, splitting tools for splitting. Most splitters target a certain range of wood.
 
Well said. One other thing is that processors can only accept certain size wood so it may be a bit easier on the wedge. If I get some big (24+) diameter stuff, depending on the species and grain I will just use the single knife wedge.
 
It does not make good stove wood.
I disagree with that statement. knotty stuff might not stack well or look purdy on the pile, but if it fits in the door of the stove, it makes excellent heat. My 6way is adjustable, all the way down it is a 4way. all the way up- and I can run 12in dia stuff under the wings for a single split. At full up range, it is 24in tall. I have found that on really big stuff, its best not to raise the 6way all the way up to split with. To much leverage on the hbeam. I will do a 4way split using just the top wings and leave 2 big quarters to resplit. Only thing I noodle is stuff my log dogs wont grab hold of and that limit is around 48in dia. Anything over that and my boom isnt high enough that the wood can clear the hbeam.
 
it makes excellent heat.

It makes the best heat...if you can get it in the door. Hence the reference to stove wood.
My assumption is my customers don't want a piece in the stack that take up the space of three or four pieces, because they are paying by the cu. ft. In that sense the heat of three or four pieces, is probably equal to one big knot, but the perception is this guy is fluffing with junk that doesn't stack well. They do make great all nighters. Often knarlies from large rounds however won't fit in the door of many stoves or fireplace inserts. A side thought is I doubt they season well enough for catalytic stoves.
 
And one reason I dont sell wood. I can get by with anything I want to with my stove, or my stacks, but customers are a whole different ballgame. As far as drying or seasoning, I really dont see or have noticed any problems.
 
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