.........Gentlemen.... And especially the tree troll....I have just become the new father of a husky 257 . I was hired to completly clean out a home to be sold. The family members went through and took every thng that they wanted . and I was hired to finish. This saw was in a craftsman chainsaw case. and looks to have had very little use two chains that have almost no use and one was still in the store plastic. A little Research shows that it was made between 2001 and 2009, im not sure of that . I have gotten it to start once . it has a compression release , and as I said it started once . Heres the rub, If I let the saw set with the nose up fuel runs out of it. When I got the saw it had fuel in it and it may have been there for many years..... If I keep pulling the handle It masively floods. It sounds like maybe a set of gaskets for the carb would be in order ?.. i AM VERY GOOD WITH MECHANICAL THINGS But I have never dismantled a carb like this ..I think this would be a great intermediate, ground saw . I think it has a 20in blade . What should a tune-up cost.... What should i do......... THE LURE OF EASY SAWS, HAS A VERY STRONG APPEAL... Thanks for your time Dave1
...My little red headed Step child , A 257-Husky
- Thread starter dave1
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The 257 is an amazing saw, and very underated. Its a keeping and a show grabber. Take a lil look around here you'll find lil 2 strokes aren't that intimidating at all.
SkippyKtm
The Lorax, my FIL rip...
Do you mean Saw troll? We don't have any tree trolls here, LOL. You probably have a tillotson carby on your saw -my favorite to rebuild, they always seem to be the easiest to get going again, and be sure to replace that crusty 'ol fuel line too...
One thing I wouldnt do is try starting the saw with the old gas. You risk tearing up the top end doing so. Like Skippyktm said rebuild the carb and put in a new fuel line first and toss the old gas.
ncfarmboy
Addicted to ArboristSite
Should have a Walbro on it HDA series. +1 on the fuel line, filter and dump the gas. That model the tank vent will also leak. it's located in the handle next to the av mount right side. Get the numbers off of the carb. (HDA XXx) and we will help you with rebuild and kit number. As others said underrated saw member of the 254-257-261-262 series of bad "A" saws.
Shep
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
It is a good saw but a little heavy for its power.
Falls right in line with the 359, but without any mods required. If you believe specs............it almost falls right in-line with the 346xpNE, but with 0.1 more hp and 1/2 pound extra weight, and it doesn't flop over, and easily turns its 13.5K max unloaded rpm, and likes to hand in the wood at 10K plus. Did I mention its an amazing saw?
Carb kit will be a K22HDA,
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
Some no doubt run better but mine won't hang with a 359.
Do you have the plastic seal retainer on the flywheel side? I had a slight pressure only leak on my 257 that made it run very sluggish, and just missed that top end. All i had to do was replace the seal and holder (the new style is metal) and poof back up and running like a screaming banshee
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
I'll have to ck that, thanks.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Well, the 359 was the replacement for the 257, as the "cheap" alternatives to the 254xp/357xp.
There are no secrets in this story, with the possible exception of the 355.....
ncfarmboy
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep! it will have Walbro in raised letters on the cover with one screw in the middle. HDA will be on the side of carb. Unless some chainsaw modifier has changed it which I highly doubt.
Shep
the survey said..
.....The seral number is 430113.....The carb said HDA with 120 under it and a d4 in the corner .. And a plastic Intake manifold.. thanks guys .. dave1 Buzer went off gota go . Its a phone thing.. dave1..
.....The seral number is 430113.....The carb said HDA with 120 under it and a d4 in the corner .. And a plastic Intake manifold.. thanks guys .. dave1 Buzer went off gota go . Its a phone thing.. dave1..
You are missing one digit in the serial number but assuming it is not one of the first three, your saw is a 1994 from the 30th week (end of July). You have a Walbro HDA-120 carb which is consistent with that year.
As for the spark, disconnect the wire to the ON/OFF switch and see if you have spark. Remember that you have to spin these motors over fairly fast to get it - not like some old lawnmower systems.
Also ensure the plug is good - either verify the one it has on another motor or get a new one. I am a masocist so when these two steps don't work, I hold the plug and touch the cylinder with the same hand and give a pull to see if I can feel anything - not for the faint of heart!
Ensure the gap on the plug is 0.020".
If neither of those fix it, remove the starter cover, the air shroud, and examine the coil area.
* Is the switch wire from the coil in good condition and not shorting to anything (insulation is good)?
* Is the flywheel tight on the crankshaft?
* Is there a 0.012" gap between the flywheel and the coil? If not, loosen the screws on the coil and re-gap - can use a business card for spacing if you need something.
* Are the coil screws tight?
* Is the sparkplug wire insulation in good condition?
* If none of these fix it, you may need a new coil (544018301). Since these are about $100 new from a dealer, I would recommend getting used from someone here or on the 'bay. This part was used on many Huskys so it should be easy to find. You can post a Wanted ad in the classifieds here.
Also ensure the plug is good - either verify the one it has on another motor or get a new one. I am a masocist so when these two steps don't work, I hold the plug and touch the cylinder with the same hand and give a pull to see if I can feel anything - not for the faint of heart!
Ensure the gap on the plug is 0.020".
If neither of those fix it, remove the starter cover, the air shroud, and examine the coil area.
* Is the switch wire from the coil in good condition and not shorting to anything (insulation is good)?
* Is the flywheel tight on the crankshaft?
* Is there a 0.012" gap between the flywheel and the coil? If not, loosen the screws on the coil and re-gap - can use a business card for spacing if you need something.
* Are the coil screws tight?
* Is the sparkplug wire insulation in good condition?
* If none of these fix it, you may need a new coil (544018301). Since these are about $100 new from a dealer, I would recommend getting used from someone here or on the 'bay. This part was used on many Huskys so it should be easy to find. You can post a Wanted ad in the classifieds here.
Yup....as stated above for spark.... Do not overlook the simple things before assuming it's the actual ignition itself.
