My new sawmill

[Czech_Made]

The oil delivery point is too high and most of the oil will splash off the chain and you will lose most of it. The delivery point needs to be much closer so that it wicks out onto the chain. On my mills I have the delivery point less than 1mm above the chain/bar contact.

Also it looks like you have the delivery on the inboard spade meaning the oiled chain has to go around the outboard sprocket where some will be flung of by centrifugal forces.. It would be better to have it near the outboard end just after the chain hs gone around the outboard sprocket.

OK i read you are eventually going to add a second point.

yes, you are right on too high delivery, it was getting blown away. I changed that, can't say it is 1mm but it is pretty close to the bar now.

I am actually cutting away from the beam, means the chain gets oiled right before it cuts. I understand it can cause some other troubles, but so far I like the sawdust being blown away from me.

 

[Czech_Made]

Very nice setup man. I jus bought a property and am looking to build a mill as well. How do you like the chainsaw setup? I was considering making an alaskan mill for a chainsaw and building the mill with a band saw. What drove you to use a bar setup? Cost or ease of construction?

The main reason for bar setup - I did not want to mess with band blades and I already have the means of sharpening a chain.
I saw similar setups overseas, there are company building sawmills like this commercially.

 

[BobL]

yes, you are right on too high delivery, it was getting blown away. I changed that, can't say it is 1mm but it is pretty close to the bar now.

That's good

I am actually cutting away from the beam, means the chain gets oiled right before it cuts. I understand it can cause some other troubles, but so far I like the sawdust being blown away from me.

Good idea but doesn't the sawdust get in the way of loading new logs onto the mill frame? On the bandsaw I operate we load logs and unload lumber from one side and the sawdust and offcuts pile up on the other.

 

[Czech_Made]

So far so good I will move the mill based on experience. The beam points to the North, more or less and that's where the wind comes from. It worked well for pushing the saw, but with the winch and pulling it towards me, I may need to turn it around. The saw dust I will probably have to move around every so often, maybe use as mulch at wife's garden or something

What oil do you use? So far I have a bar oil in the tank, mixed with some ATF, that was to thin it out when testing in winter. Tha bar oil seemed to be too slow. Now I think pure bar oil would be better since it is more "sticky" for lack of better word.

 

[BobL]

So far so good I will move the mill based on experience. The beam points to the North, more or less and that's where the wind comes from. It worked well for pushing the saw, but with the winch and pulling it towards me, I may need to turn it around. The saw dust I will probably have to move around every so often, maybe use as mulch at wife's garden or something

Raw sawdust is not much good in gardens- it needs nitrogen and composting and stirring into the soil. I t can also "cake" and prevent water penetration. I see you are only milling small logs so not much sawdust anyway. Some of the logs I mill generate over 120 kg of sawdust!

What oil do you use? So far I have a bar oil in the tank, mixed with some ATF, that was to thin it out when testing in winter. Tha bar oil seemed to be too slow. Now I think pure bar oil would be better since it is more "sticky" for lack of better word.

You can buy special tackfying agent to add to oil. In Australia hotter weather means regular chainsaw bar oil can be too thin so extra tackifier is needed. I purchase re-cleaned engine oil with extra tackifier. The person I buy it from adds the extra tackifier for me. I used to use Branded oil in the saw and canola oil in the aux oiler as this is on the cutting side and it does not need the tackifier however it does makes a mess and then my dogs like to lick the B&C afterwards. The canola oil is quite cheap (~US2/L) compared to regular bar oil $4/L but the cleaned recycled oil with tackifier is only $2.50/L so I now use that in both the saw and the aux oiler.

 

[Czech_Made]

Thank you, Bob. I will see what works for me, but as you notice, I run small operation, regular bar oil might be enough.

 

[Czech_Made]

I like eastern red cedar a lot.

 

[Czech_Made]

Video of cutting pine, iphone in left hand, cranking with right hand

 

[SeMoTony]

- Originally I used the whole clutch assembly from 372XP, but it would slip when the motor slowed down - now it is just the outside piece welded to a spindle, the goal was to be able to replace the sprocket ring when it wears out.

- Bar is lubed by gravity fed oil, I am afraid it is not enough and most likely will have to get some kind of a oil pump rigged.

- The electrical connection will be replaced completely in a week or two, this is just for testing.

- Also the V belt may need tensioner or maybe use sprockets an chain instead, the future will tell.

simplify, a pump won't be required if larger diameter tubing is used to apply oil; twice dia. transfers up to 4 times the flow (-;

 

[cedarhollow]

if you decide to go with air pressurized oil tank if you have a junk yard around the air brake tanks off of a truck might work real well. surplus center sells pipe thread ports that can be welded in for a fill port and each tank should have either 2 or 4 , 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch threaded ports in the bottom. air pressure in one tank oil in the other with a valve to control flow.
just an idea. you've done great fabrication job, well done

 

[Big_6]

Repped!
This is the best stuffs I seen on A.S. in years!
@ Thanks for posting this use of a curious mind and your skilled hands.

 

[Czech_Made]

Thank you for your kind words, Big_6

 

[JDP]

Very nice job! I love the jack screws for the lift mechanism. Are you still loading it from your tractor's carryall? Might I suggest using ramps and parbuckling them up? Speaking as someone whoose back has seen better days, I can use all the mechanical advantage I can get!

 

[Czech_Made]

Thank you and thank you for the suggestion, will keep it in mind.

I have to move it to permanent position - and get a roof over it. I have a crane that can mount on my trailer, will be probably using that - and my son when he is around

 

[Bernard_Ritchie]

Thank you, gents. I am redoing the wiring now, plus working on a blade support. I will try to drip oil directly on the chain instead of the bar oil port and see what happens.

The oil tank now is a gas tank from an old tiller, i would have to seal the cap somehow, but it certainly is interesting idea, thank you.

How about a pump type garden sprayer (without the wand)?

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

 

[Czech_Made]

I have quite few pine logs to mill and there is more where these came from. With the weather in Virginia I cut when it is not raining, sometimes it is hard to get to the pile, haha.

I slab logs to 1" , nothing fancy, just making boards.

 

[Czech_Made]

I made few changes to the mill. First, I installed sawdust deflector to keep it from flying too far. It works well, I might add a rubber skirt to it to catch the rest of the dust.

It makes a neat sawdust mountain range under the mill now. Much easier to deal with.

 

[Czech_Made]

I checked the gauge of the cable I was using - it looked big enough from the outside but it was only 12 gauge, way too small. I upgraded to 8 gauge.

I also replaced the smaller V-belt pulley and lowered rpms on the blade from 6700 to 5700, it did not make much of a difference in cutting speed but it is much less likely to pop the breaker now.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Nice work!

 

[Czech_Made]

Milling some beautiful pine these days. Kinda reddish in places, love it.