My Sawmill Shed Build

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Sawyer Rob

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I thought i'd start a new thread of my sawmill shed build... So, i got started by pushing the sod off the spot where i'm going to put up a roof over my sawmill... It won't go up real fast, but at least i'm getting a started on it!

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Next, will be putting some sand down to bring it up to the grade i want, so i got started digging sand with my loader tractor,

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I have my own sand pit, but the sand is "fine" sand, my friend up the road a ways, has "course" sand, and that's what you need under a slab...

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Once i had some sand hauled, i compacted it in, using the tractor tires for the "packing". I'll put water on it when i'm done, to settle the sand even more...

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And, with all the sand in place, i once again used my tractor to "pack it", one more time.

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I'll let this "pad" sit a while, before giving it it's final "leveling", adding more sand where needed...
 
OK, now it's time to mill some lumber to build with! I even found myself a "helper", to make my day more productive than usual!

So, i got started by loading a really nice white pine, a friend gave me,

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Boy, this was a nice log, and i didn't need it as long as it was, so i chainsawed off the crooked end, and milled this log into 2x12's, as i need headers!

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Next log on the mill, was a soft maple,

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And this log became 2x6's for the rafters i'll need!

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With those two logs out of the way, it was time to get started on a pile of old red pine logs, that my neighbor gave me. These logs came out of a powerline, that the utility guys sawed out. So, i started loading them TWO at a time, and got to sawing,

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Some of them i milled into 5/4 x 4" lumber,

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And some of the better ones,

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I sawed into 2x6's,

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I split some of the logs, and then lay all the pieces on the bunks, to saw out, four 5/4 x 4" boards at a time,

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Until we FINALLY ended up with a nice pile of "construction" lumber,

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Today i hired two of my nephues to help me get the post in, lucky for them i have a post hole auger for my tractor... lol So, all they had to do is make the bottom of the hole a bit bigger for the cement post pad.

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The auger makes a nice 12" hole, here's what the hole looks like with a cement post pad in the bottom for the post to sit on,

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I used 4x6 PT post, 10' on center, so the back wall is 30' long.

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With the back wall post in place and braced, we got started on the front three post,

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Until we had all seven post in place,

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So, i cut some 2x12's that i milled last week, to length.

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And we got started nailing them up on the back wall, for the back wall header.

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Until we had them all in place,

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Then i cut some 2x6's to length that i also milled last week, for side and front braceing.

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Next i'll have to cut those front post to length, build the header to go over the 26' door opening, and get more sand in place to level the floor, but that's not going to happen for at least a few days yet!

Rob
 
Rob,
That's looking good.
When you mentioned 7 posts, I was confused at first as to where the 7th post was going. Why the step back recess, are you making a 4 foot storeroom on the end of the shed?

Ted
 
Looking good Rob. I'm doing the same thing except I need a 28' opening in the front. I have a 29' poplar sitting on my mill that I have squared to an 11x11", but the guys on the Forestry forum say that even with knee braces at each end it will sag. Any suggestions?

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Looks good Rob. The only thing that I would have done differently is to pitch the roof away from the open side, however if you have gutters when you are finished I reckon it wont matter. Looking forward to more pictures.
 
Rob,
That's looking good.
When you mentioned 7 posts, I was confused at first as to where the 7th post was going. Why the step back recess, are you making a 4 foot storeroom on the end of the shed?

Ted

That's where the mill head will sit, and having a post there shortens the span over the door a bit. Also if i choose, i can close that area in to give more weather protection...


Is that a loader/bucket on that tractor??? Seems they do have some purpose.

I use the bucket on my tractor all the time. It's very useful for all kinds of things, from watering the garden, moving sand and gravel or moving some snow in the winter. With the quick attach, it comes off in seconds...


Looking good Rob. I'm doing the same thing except I need a 28' opening in the front. I have a 29' poplar sitting on my mill that I have squared to an 11x11", but the guys on the Forestry forum say that even with knee braces at each end it will sag. Any suggestions?

I agree, it WILL sag! For big spans you need to glue something up (AKA glulam) as it's MUCH stronger than a solid wood beam. I'll be making mine as soon as i get some time!


Looks good Rob. The only thing that I would have done differently is to pitch the roof away from the open side, however if you have gutters when you are finished I reckon it wont matter. Looking forward to more pictures.

I "pitched" the roof the way i did, so later if i want, i can expand the building by building the "other half". Also, i wanted southern exposure on the mill side, so this is what worked out with the least amount of work and money spent...

There won't be any water problems, as i'm going to extend the eves a bit, and the mill will sit back far enough under the roof. Also, the southern side of the building slopes away nicely...



Looks like an excellent project - :rockn: - I'm dead jealous of the space you have to play with.

Thanks Bob, and yes i have plenty of room for anything i want to do...

I'm glad everyone likes the picts... I'll add more as time permits,

Rob
 
Looking good Rob. I'm doing the same thing except I need a 28' opening in the front. I have a 29' poplar sitting on my mill that I have squared to an 11x11", but the guys on the Forestry forum say that even with knee braces at each end it will sag. Any suggestions?

The 24 foot beam I made for my shed from three staggered layers of 2x12's is up and there's no sag, of course there's no weight on it yet either. I don't think I will have a problem with it though.

Ted
(I have half of the rafters up as of yesterday, haven't taken pics yet.)

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Hey Ted,

How much "snow load" do you figure you will get there in Texas? lol

I'm always amazed at how chinsey buildings are built in the south.

Rob
 
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Looking good Rob. I'm doing the same thing except I need a 28' opening in the front. I have a 29' poplar sitting on my mill that I have squared to an 11x11", but the guys on the Forestry forum say that even with knee braces at each end it will sag. Any suggestions?

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Bolt a 3/8" X 8" Piece of Flat Bar steel to the face (or back) of your beam (Making a Flitch Beam of sorts). . . It will work to stiffen the beam for your span. The Flat Bar will add approx 200 pounds to your load, and cost between $160.00 and $190.00. You would also have to weld an 8' section on a 20' stick to achieve your 28' span.

According to a Flitch Chart I have. . . A beam made up of 2- no. 1 Fir/Larch 2" X 12's, with a 3/8" X 10" A-36 Flat Bar in the center -- can only support approximately 219 PLF (pounds per lineal foot) Uniform Load, and that's with only a 20' clear span. . . Also with three inches of bearing at each end of the beam. That should give you an idea of the span you're trying to accomplish, with such a small member. Usually such spans are taken up by very large, expensive beams.

Or make an inverted truss using 3/4" cold roll round, and some tubing, flat bar, or whatever for the king post. A much cheaper, simpler option to a Flitch Beam.
 
Yup it will sag!
I would build 3 or 4 30 ft trusses and run the roof lengthwise for the mill!4 posts and a 2 beams to carry the trusses at each end! just my opinion!Trusses are easy to build divide the bottom cord into thirds and the top cords
in 1/2 and make 3 /_w_ \ truss.
 
Hey Ted,

How much "snow load" do you figure you will get there in Texas? lol

I'm always amazed at how chinsey buildings are built in the south.

Rob

SNOW LOAD, where I live... sheeeee !!!! I ain't worried about snow load, I'm more worried about my load, it better hold up my fat a$$ while I'm standing on it. Most just space the rafters three foot apart and screw R panels to the rafters. I like to put down 7/16 ply solar board down, it cuts down on the reflective heat under the shed.

Ted
 
Well, today i went back to my friends house for more logs, as she had more white pine taken down, and asked if i would come get them, and make sure they go to good use! As i need more lumber for my building project, her timeing was perfect!! Anyway, i had stopped over there the other day, and saw that there was at least 7 saw logs, so for this trip i took my wagon that's rated for 10 ton MAX loads.

So, i got the tractor and wagon ready, and headed out for the 11 mile drive, and as it was a pretty nice day, i didn't mind the drive at all...

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Once there, i started loading logs,

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Some 3 at a time,

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A couple of these logs are pretty big!

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This bad boy at 34" in diameter, was a full load for my tractor/loader!

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And kept after loading the trailor,

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Until i had it all loaded,

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And on the way home, i could feel just how heavy that load was, as my tractor would slow down on the hills... lol

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Well, that's it for this "sawmill shed" update!

Rob
 
Nice pics Rob.

You're lucky that's Wpine and you live where you do, in Oz it would be some sort of eucalypt and the bigun would have to be cut in half to be lifted with your tractor. :cry:
 
M u s t .......... g e t .... a g r a p p le.................(said in a Shattner type voice)

Nice load of logs!


I use forks, it can get interesting when a big 20+ incher rolls back against the backstop. The good thing about forks is that when I have one that is little off balance, it falls off before the tractor flips over:cool:.
I have all the rafters up on my mill shed. Lathing for tin & knee braces today. Tin arrives on Wed! I decided to go with the beam I cut and put in a removable center pole.

:arg:

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RD
 
The good thing about forks is that when I have one that is little off balance, it falls off before the tractor flips over:cool:.

If you leave the grapple low to the ground, the tractor won't flip even if the load shifts. The end of the log will just bump the ground and that's all.

Nice shed btw.
 
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