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Need 357XP carb help please !!

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Dell2000, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. Dell2000

    Dell2000 New Member

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    HI i have a 357 xp saw and am having problems with the carb settings, I changed the head and piston recently but when i put it back together it would not start,

    problems i am experiening are
    flooding
    not starting runs on choke only then dies
    does not tik over ( i have adjusted tick but no joy )

    its a 2009 model


    and also it seems to be building air pressure in the tank, any ideas?


    cheers:frown:
     
  2. bluesportster02

    bluesportster02 fire wood hack

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    you might have a air leak or you have the bad walbro carburetor on it
     
  3. sunfish

    sunfish Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Did you find out why it needed a new piston and cylinder? If not, that is likely the problem.

    Probably a late enough model that the old carb problem doesn't apply, but guess it could have the bad carb? Is it a Walbro, or Zama carb?

    A few things to do/check. Check for air leak, carb kit, fuel line, impulse line, tank vent.
     
  4. Dell2000

    Dell2000 New Member

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    cheers guys

    how would i check for air leaks ?

    what is the impulse line ?

    check fuel line that is clear

    i replaced the piston and head as i seized it !!!!!!!!!!!!

    is the tank vent outlet adjacent to the fuel line pipe and how do i clean it or check it

    I will check make of of carb now

    cheers
     
  5. Dell2000

    Dell2000 New Member

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    its a walbro carb with limited H and L adjustments

    any advice?

    i have a older scrap 357 carb do you think it would be ok to fit that ? with the older adjusting method

    ????
     
  6. sunfish

    sunfish Addicted to ArboristSite

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    The impulse line is a rubber line that goes from the base of the cylinder to the carb.

    Why did your old piston seize? This very important, as that saw should have run for 10-20 years with little to no trouble.

    To check for an air leak, ya have to pull a vacuum and or pressurize the crank case to see if it's air tight. If you can't do it, you will need to take it to a shop that can. That said and depending on what seized it the first time, you likely don't have a leak, being the saw is only 3 years old.

    A carb kit might fix the problem, or a new carb?

    Was me I might clean up that old carb and try it?
     
  7. SkippyKtm

    SkippyKtm The Lorax, my FIL rip...

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    Are you sure it was manufactured in 2009, or was it purchased in 2009? The date of mfg will be on the serial plate, if you post the serial, we can figure it out. The updated carb happened in mid 2008. Is the walbro carb a HD199 a or b, possibly? The model # will be stamped in the carb body. The updated carb is a Zama, which makes me suspect your saw is older than a 2009, BTW.:msp_confused:

    P.S.I have a half dozen or so of bad HD199 and HD175 carbs. They all have the troublesome accelerator pump on them.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2011
  8. J.Walker

    J.Walker Addicted to ArboristSite

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    If you were going to replace a 357 Walbro hda-199 carb with the Zama. What is the model number for the Zama?
    Do you need a different boot?
     
  9. bluesportster02

    bluesportster02 fire wood hack

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    zama c3-el42 that is the one i put on my 359. it is a direct replacement
     
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  10. J.Walker

    J.Walker Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Thank you!
     
  11. TK

    TK Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Pop the zama on there and eliminate any current and future faulty carburetor issues, period. Pick up a carb kit while you're there, ethanol is a friend of no one.
     
  12. SkippyKtm

    SkippyKtm The Lorax, my FIL rip...

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    I think I originally got this from spike60:

    I replaced my HD199a with a ZAMA C3-EL42 and I did need to buy the flange too, it was only $6 or so. The carb adjustments are in a sightly different location necessitating the new flange. The saw runs and idles perfectly now, before I got the new carb it ran like it was possessed by Demons, lol.
    :hell_boy:
     
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