Need help with Stihl 056 ignition fix using Nova II module

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I suspect that if the saw starts overheating the bottom or skirt of the piston would probably start expanding more first and scrubbing on the cylinder wall and with the saw running full throttle in long cuts milling and would do major damage trying to seize at full throttle as compared to making cuts that are not as long at full throttle and coming back to idle for few seconds, like trimming limbs or cutting firewood for example. I've had engines seize up at low rpms and stop running (due to lack of coolant and they cool down with no major damage, but a wide open throttle seize usually results in major damage, like bent or broken rods, etc.
When you start hearing small changes in the saw's rpms in the cut and thinking its the carb erratic it might be the START of the overheating and the piston seizing into the cylinder wall due to increased friction and less rpm's. Just a armchair guess, but a thought to consider.

I agree that leaning the saw will produce more power in the cut removing the 4 cycle rich setting, but you are taking chance of leaning and overheating. I would go for trying to get a adjustment where she is 4 cycling in the cut then point at just below 4 cycling when loaded and sometimes this a only a critical 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the carb H adjustment.

IMHO: I would get a IR temp @ the $17 you mentioned and monitor the temp of the cylinder in the long cut and if no overheat and the scoring gets worse or a new piston scores and the cylinder not overheating you will then be thoroughly confused?????;) (at least you would know the piston not scoring due to overheating and the saw is running cool)
I was really surprised how fast a saws cylinder temp will start increasing from idle to full throttle in a heavy cut when leaned out and the saw not exceeding the max spec'ed rpm's when monitoring with the IR and slight H jet adjustment and she ran cool.

Good luck to you.

What type of milling setup are you testing. I have some pine logs I've been thinking about milling into 4x4's or 6x6's is why I'm asking?
 
I have a Small Log Mill, a 24" Alaskan Mark III and a Mini Mill. I like to make the first cut with either the Small Log Mill or Mark III and the second with the Mini Mill for making beams. I also make beams with just the Mark III or Small Log Mill by making the first cut level and then turning the log 90 degrees and making the surface plumb using a level. Then the next cut will make a 90 degree edge if you make it level also. I also box the pith of the log because I heard that is the best way to keep them straight and square but I only get one beam out of each log. I just recently milled eight 6 x 6's for a small project. I decided to make a small timber frame shelter for my in laws to park their mower in. Didn't have to be timber frame but a tree service has brought me over thirty pine logs this year so I have to find uses for them before they rot and become bonfire wood.

This particular saw is interesting in that it is scoring like this. It was scored like that when I got it also. I have milled for years with 045/056 series saws but this is the only one doing this. I guess these old saws can be different from one to the next.
 
I suspect that if the saw starts overheating the bottom or skirt of the piston would probably start expanding more first and scrubbing on the cylinder wall...
The crown is where all the heat is and where it expands the most. If you measure a piston you'll find the the top of the piston is quite a lot smaller in diameter than the skirts.
 
The crown is where all the heat is and where it expands the most. If you measure a piston you'll find the the top of the piston is quite a lot smaller in diameter than the skirts.

Right:

Piston skirt has less room to expand before contacting the cylinder wall. (really bad when the skirt starts scrubbing on the cylinder wall)
 
I suspect that if the saw starts overheating the bottom or skirt of the piston would probably start expanding more first and scrubbing on the cylinder wall and with the saw running full throttle in long cuts milling and would do major damage trying to seize at full throttle as compared to making cuts that are not as long at full throttle and coming back to idle for few seconds, like trimming limbs or cutting firewood for example. I've had engines seize up at low rpms and stop running (due to lack of coolant and they cool down with no major damage, but a wide open throttle seize usually results in major damage, like bent or broken rods, etc.
When you start hearing small changes in the saw's rpms in the cut and thinking its the carb erratic it might be the START of the overheating and the piston seizing into the cylinder wall due to increased friction and less rpm's. Just a armchair guess, but a thought to consider.

I agree that leaning the saw will produce more power in the cut removing the 4 cycle rich setting, but you are taking chance of leaning and overheating. I would go for trying to get a adjustment where she is 4 cycling in the cut then point at just below 4 cycling when loaded and sometimes this a only a critical 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the carb H adjustment.

Little late to this thread but some of the most useful info I've gotten on trying to sort out my ever problematic 045 Super. I've been milling a large tree called guanacaste in southern Mexico and putting mine under more load than is likely ideal for this saw (24-34" wide slabs with a 42" bar and 42" Alaskan Mill) and it chronically overheats and shuts down, not to be awakened until a half hour of cooling has taken place. (Always fine again upon cool down.) Plus it's hot as blazes here all the time anyway so that doesn't help. I've had the local repair guy put in new piston and rings, got a crank seal and bearing for the available side and then got a second hand clutch assembly side of the saw to replace the unavailable bearing and seal but found out the bearing and seal in it was worse than the one I had in it so had to stick with the original. Still may well be a bad seal there, finally found someone on Ebay with NOS bearing/seal but wants $85 so have yet to pull the trigger on that. I thought the ignition was probably the issue for a long time but the starter seems overly easy to pull when it's hot, suggesting a compression issue, not an ignition issue. I got it going a little quicker than usual the other day when milling by dumping a little oil into the cylinder to see if it improved the compression. (It did, but then half the time of course fouled the plug. And it just died sooner on the next cut because it had never cooled much.) The local repair guy is competent but low tech and doesn't understand anything particular to this saw and the fine tuning it needs to mill without running too hot. Don't think he vac tests anything, just like most mechanics here makes a guess at the problem and has me bring him parts to replace and hopes for the best. I need to start doing my own work on the saws, I'm a pretty good outboard motor mechanic and small engine mechanic in general, just have been somewhat reluctant to get too deep into chainsaws yet. I've already run it hard through a few trees since the piston/rings replacement, and with a lot of overheating doing that, may well have ruined the replacement ones. Also unsure the cylinder is good, though the mechanic seemed to think it was okay before. Like you say, long milling cuts at full throttle make this thing heat up ridiculously hot super quick, way more than a saw should. So will see about getting an IR temp gauge and back off the high speed screw some to make sure that's not making it too lean. Will need to get the piston and cylinder apart again to see their condition too. And likely get the crank bearing and seal for $85, since I'm not likely to find another one anytime soon. In the meantime, I'm waiting on an 056 Super to arrive I picked up for $250 that is supposed to run okay, but just an estate sale find so not really tested properly by anyone. If nothing else, between the two saws should be able to produce one really good working one, but would be even better to get two good working saws going so I could run them both on a 60" double ended bar.
 
Little late to this thread but some of the most useful info I've gotten on trying to sort out my ever problematic 045 Super. I've been milling a large tree called guanacaste in southern Mexico and putting mine under more load than is likely ideal for this saw (24-34" wide slabs with a 42" bar and 42" Alaskan Mill) and it chronically overheats and shuts down, not to be awakened until a half hour of cooling has taken place. (Always fine again upon cool down.) Plus it's hot as blazes here all the time anyway so that doesn't help. I've had the local repair guy put in new piston and rings, got a crank seal and bearing for the available side and then got a second hand clutch assembly side of the saw to replace the unavailable bearing and seal but found out the bearing and seal in it was worse than the one I had in it so had to stick with the original. Still may well be a bad seal there, finally found someone on Ebay with NOS bearing/seal but wants $85 so have yet to pull the trigger on that. I thought the ignition was probably the issue for a long time but the starter seems overly easy to pull when it's hot, suggesting a compression issue, not an ignition issue. I got it going a little quicker than usual the other day when milling by dumping a little oil into the cylinder to see if it improved the compression. (It did, but then half the time of course fouled the plug. And it just died sooner on the next cut because it had never cooled much.) The local repair guy is competent but low tech and doesn't understand anything particular to this saw and the fine tuning it needs to mill without running too hot. Don't think he vac tests anything, just like most mechanics here makes a guess at the problem and has me bring him parts to replace and hopes for the best. I need to start doing my own work on the saws, I'm a pretty good outboard motor mechanic and small engine mechanic in general, just have been somewhat reluctant to get too deep into chainsaws yet. I've already run it hard through a few trees since the piston/rings replacement, and with a lot of overheating doing that, may well have ruined the replacement ones. Also unsure the cylinder is good, though the mechanic seemed to think it was okay before. Like you say, long milling cuts at full throttle make this thing heat up ridiculously hot super quick, way more than a saw should. So will see about getting an IR temp gauge and back off the high speed screw some to make sure that's not making it too lean. Will need to get the piston and cylinder apart again to see their condition too. And likely get the crank bearing and seal for $85, since I'm not likely to find another one anytime soon. In the meantime, I'm waiting on an 056 Super to arrive I picked up for $250 that is supposed to run okay, but just an estate sale find so not really tested properly by anyone. If nothing else, between the two saws should be able to produce one really good working one, but would be even better to get two good working saws going so I could run them both on a 60" double ended bar.
I haven't used the 045 super much because I'm afraid of breaking the piston but I found a good after market 54mm piston from Sägenspezi, or at least it seems better than other after market pistons I've tried. The skirt clearance was less than .002" and the squish without a cylinder gasket was around .030" on a used 056 cylinder. Seems pretty close to OEM. I've noticed with these old saws you have to check all the possible places for leaks. I've seen leaky seals, impulse line leak at the carb fitting and even a fuel line leaking at the fitting inside the tank. Also need to make sure there is plenty of air flow. These saws are well known for ignition fails so you have to help it out as much as possible. What did you put in for a piston? Was it OEM or after market? That should have helped the compression. Definitely should do a pressure/vac test on the case after a rebuild. These are a great saw for working on in my opinion. As long as you can find the parts it seems like they always start up and run great. Check Brewer Chainsaw Sales for bearings. You have to call them for availability because they don't update their website stock very well. I've got NOS clutch side bearings both earlier and later styles from them. They also sell used stuff. Also, for after market parts I've been pretty happy with Sägenspezi. I'm also considering getting a large bar and running two power heads.
 
I haven't used the 045 super much because I'm afraid of breaking the piston but I found a good after market 54mm piston from Sägenspezi, or at least it seems better than other after market pistons I've tried. The skirt clearance was less than .002" and the squish without a cylinder gasket was around .030" on a used 056 cylinder. Seems pretty close to OEM. I've noticed with these old saws you have to check all the possible places for leaks. I've seen leaky seals, impulse line leak at the carb fitting and even a fuel line leaking at the fitting inside the tank. Also need to make sure there is plenty of air flow. These saws are well known for ignition fails so you have to help it out as much as possible. What did you put in for a piston? Was it OEM or after market? That should have helped the compression. Definitely should do a pressure/vac test on the case after a rebuild. These are a great saw for working on in my opinion. As long as you can find the parts it seems like they always start up and run great. Check Brewer Chainsaw Sales for bearings. You have to call them for availability because they don't update their website stock very well. I've got NOS clutch side bearings both earlier and later styles from them. They also sell used stuff. Also, for after market parts I've been pretty happy with Sägenspezi. I'm also considering getting a large bar and running two power heads.
I've since found that the ignition is faulty after all. Completely erratic as to when it sparks or not. So I think my main problem all along has been the ignition. Will buy the Sagenspezi ignition and then do a pressure/vac test when I get the chance after that to track down leaks. Started getting deeper inside my saw by making up a flywheel puller from a cheap steering wheel puller I got at Autozone that didn't come with the bolts I needed, coupled with a pair of M7 bolts (of course Stihl had to choose one of the most obscure threads possible for those puller holes in the flywheel - who uses M7 for anything?). The 056 Super I bought is on its way finally thru Mexico to my place in Oaxaca and should see it Tuesday or so. I know these are great saws when running right, but I confess some jealousy at a friend who went to the Stihl dealer here which I never considered doing because saws have traditionally cost a lot more here than in the US, and bought a new MS660 with 36" bar and chain for the unbelievable equivalent of about $700 US. The strong US dollar makes for crazy deals down here sometimes. I can get an MS780 (same as 880) down here with 36" bar for about $1100 new right now. But the 660 does have more plastic on it than an old Stihl. Used an aftermarket piston - maybe a Golf if I remember right? It definitely did help the compression - when it was sparking okay before the last overheat it was a beast in most of the work it did. It's still not easy to pull and I'm a 6'7" guy. I agree that when it has spark it's amazing how easily these saws start up from cold and run good, never have had a problem with that. I think the ignition is the missing link to getting it to be a dependable saw, and then some leak checking and fine tuning and a temp gauge to make sure it doesn't run too hot when milling.
 
Have you checked out the discussion "SUCCESS!!! Just repaired Stihl 045/056 Bosch electronic ignition!!!!!"? In that thread on page 3, post 51 is where the instructions for the fix starts. I have tried it on four ignitions and three were successful. The three successes were from ignitions with your symptoms where they would start and run fine until warmed up. The unsuccessful fix was from an ignition with no spark at all. I also made a flywheel puller from a steering wheel puller. It's interesting your bolt holes are M7. They are usually M5. I also have a points flywheel with M4 bolts. Someone may have re-threaded yours in the past.

I have a Sagenspezi ignition and it seems to work excellent but I don't know how well they hold up through time. I just about have another 056 super build done. I put the Nova fix in (that I fooled with for a long time a while back) to give it another attempt. It started and idled fine yesterday. If it doesn't pan out I may try another Sagenspezi one unless I can find a cheap used ignition.

My first 056 super had a Golf piston. It was pretty good but I had to remove the cylinder gasket to bump up the compression. Then it was awesome for a while until a piston ring broke. The compression was 132psi before removing the gasket and around 160psi after. I'll probably stay with the Sagenspezi pistons unless something happens. The specs on this one were better than a used OEM. I haven't tested the compression yet.
 
I studied up on foggysail's fix awhile back, contemplated it, and just don't feel quite up to it right now. If the 056's ignition proves faulty as well I'll give it a shot. But for just one saw I'm okay with paying $100 for the Sagenspezi ignition. Saw a bad ignition Magnum in otherwise good condition on Craigslist in Northern California that seemed a pretty good deal if the guy would be willing to pack it up and ship it - only wants $150 obo for it. https://roseburg.craigslist.org/tls/5805892284.html But I've got enough to deal with at the moment that I don't need to go chasing other saws. Would really enjoy having a Magnum though. I often do Craigslist searches of the entire US for items because they're much cheaper than Ebay (only advertising to a local audience) and people are sometimes willing to accept PayPal and ship it.
 
Btw, here are some of my finished products of guanacaste wood from when the 045 has been working for me. Also did a new kitchen in my place out of 24" x 2" thick single slab guanacaste counters and am working on floating shelves for it right now. Waiting on the welder to finish the mounts for me. I almost did too good a job out of doing formal squared off counters (rather than how some folks do live edge single slab counters) and buffing them out nicely because everyone thinks they're veneer at first and are shocked to find out they're single slab solid pieces. What I call the "lake table" here with a blue glass insert over a hollowed out section of trunk is probably the best project I've ever done - the woodworking part was nothing special really but the "lake" idea worked out spectacularly. I did slab coffee table legs for it and sold it to a local realtor for his office.
 

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Btw, here are some of my finished products of guanacaste wood from when the 045 has been working for me. Also did a new kitchen in my place out of 24" x 2" thick single slab guanacaste counters and am working on floating shelves for it right now. Waiting on the welder to finish the mounts for me. I almost did too good a job out of doing formal squared off counters (rather than how some folks do live edge single slab counters) and buffing them out nicely because everyone thinks they're veneer at first and are shocked to find out they're single slab solid pieces. What I call the "lake table" here with a blue glass insert over a hollowed out section of trunk is probably the best project I've ever done - the woodworking part was nothing special really but the "lake" idea worked out spectacularly. I did slab coffee table legs for it and sold it to a local realtor for his office.
That's some nice work. I pretty much mill lumber for building materials. Here is the nicest project I have done so far. It's a 10' x 12' shed. I mostly used pine but the floor is quarter sawn Sycamore. This was also the first project that I milled tapered siding for.
 

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The ignition fix isn't as difficult as it might seem by reading it in the posts. I also like to put in different switches than the OEM. There is a particular one from RadioShack that I have had great luck with so far. I have used four so far and one I've been using on my personal saw for around two years without any problems.

You will need slightly longer stator plate screws for the Sagenspezi ignition. On mine the plate is much thicker and the original screws were too short. Also, the ignition wire was just barely long enough. The coil on the Sagenspezi ignition is rotated slightly more clockwise than the Bosch.

I just tested the compression on my latest build with the Sagenspezi piston and it is actually much lower than I expected at about 125psi. My recoil starter was a little gummed up though so some of that might be from not getting good fast pulls. I cleaned it up and I'll check again. My carb is leaking gas so I have to fool with that. The Nova module fix seemed to give me a lot of problems before with the saw flooding and all kinds of strange things that seemed like it could be the carburetor but after replacing the ignition the saw seemed to run much better but I haven't used it much since. Going to put yet another piston in and hopefully not destroy it this time.
 
The kill switches? Mine shocks me. It needs replacing. Let me know what Radio Shack one you use. Nice shed! There's not a whole lot of forestry down here in southern Mexico and what there is is almost all pine, so nearly everything is made of concrete except up in the mountains where there is more wood used. Nice to see well-made wood structures. My uncle built his simple cabins he lived in on a wilderness ranch in central Florida out of wood he milled, primarily oak. Oh btw, hadn't occurred to me to use the M5 threads that the flywheel fan bolt onto. There were two additional M7 threads on my flywheel specifically meant for a puller I assume which I haven't seen on other 045/056 flywheels. So I used a simple two bolt steering wheel puller rather than a harmonic balancer style three bolt puller.
 
If you go to the Radio Shack website look at this switch "Radio Shack 6A 125V, 3A 250V SPDT Heavy-Duty Switch".

It isn't a perfect fit through the top cover but it works. I had to do a small amount of filing on one of my top covers to make it fit. I tried to order some a couple days ago but they said they are updating their website and can't do internet orders right now. The switches are $3.50 each + shipping but there is also someone selling them on ebay for $6 and free shipping.

I retested the compression and it showed 140psi this time. I think that is okay. It should go up as the rings break in. I also managed to fix the leaky carb. Had to bend the metering lever down a tiny bit to make the needle valve seat better. Now I'm just waiting on a cover plate washer and then I can test the saw and see if the ignition fails after it gets hot. Hopefully not because I don't want to drop another $100 in this saw. These saws are great because they are pretty cheap for what you get but to fix them up and sell them is hard to make money because nobody will spend a lot for them either. People will spend $200 to $300 on a running barn find but not spend a little more for a repaired saw all fixed and ready to run. Little do many know that you can easily spend $200 + to get one working properly depending on the condition.
 
Thanks. I'll pick one up in a couple weeks when I'm in Texas. Sounds like progress there with your saw. I completely understand about these saws and being worth the money to buy a fully renovated one. I didn't know much about big pro saws when I invested in my 045, knew nothing about the ignition problems, no longer available parts, etc. I was just looking for value and got mine for $400 with free shipping tested with good compression from some chainsaw guy in the NW on Ebay, and had it driven down by a friend from Texas. Don't think the seller misled me, just likely checked it worked, had good compression, and put it up for sale. Isn't sometimes til you run these hard that you figure out the ignition problems, at least when they're first starting to fail. I'm in it now for at least $150 in parts and labor and still don't have it fixed cause the mechanic knew nothing about these particular saws. Could have gotten a damn nice renovated saw for $600 that ran great. Turns out I could have gotten a new saw for $700 here, but that's a recent development with the huge devaluation of the peso. But there's also been a learning curve in handling one of these saws properly in milling, so I could've ruined about any saw by now by the time I figured out milling big 30"+ slabs. We actually got an Autozone this past year in my obscure little resort town, which has been an unbelievable boon for obtaining odd tools I don't already have and the like. Need to go see if I can find an adapter for my compression tester so I can check my saw with it. Oh wait, no I don't. It didn't fit my boat motor plugs, but it fits my chainsaw plug thread fine. Just tried it. Definitely something not right there either. Only getting 110 psi or so with it. Think the guy had it reading 160 when I bought it. So will have to break it down completely to see the state of things inside. Been thinking it wasn't too easy, but it wasn't too hard either for such a big saw, so that's likely the correct reading. When I first got my boat eight years ago, I dreaded the first problem with the Honda 90 outboards because I knew so little about them. Once I got buried into them though, I figured out they were just another four stroke engine like a car and no big deal. So even if it's a headache getting something up to speed and the same cost as newer in the end, I like the process in a way just because I have the confidence I know it inside and out and how to diagnose and fix problems with it. Which is kind of the reason I bought another one of the saws.
 
I got lucky on my first 056 super. I paid $300 with free shipping. I milled occasionally with it for a couple years before the ignition failed. Then did the ignition fix and it lasted another year until a piston ring broke. My theory on the ignition failure problem is that a lot of the time it is caused by another problem such as a minor air leak or running it with a partially plugged air filter. The saw will still seem to run fine and have lots of power but get a little hotter than the ignition can handle but not so bad that it melts stuff. I found with mine that the air filter would plug up too fast so I made a velocity stack from a 2" copper end cap and tried a foam air filter and also a cone filter. Both are much better than the original as far as time between cleaning. The original would plug up after each cut a lot of the time.

I also started working on my own saws because of the 056. Right now I have an 056 magnum, 045 super, 056 super, 50mm 045 and I'm getting ready to build another super. I tried selling the 50mm 045 on ebay for $300 but no luck. It's the one with the new Sagenspezi ignition and also has new OEM piston rings. It seems to run pretty awesome. Even though it's not as powerful as the supers it still seems to run great and it rips right through hardwood tree crotches that I can't split with my maul. I'm going to upgrade it to a super and raise the price and see if anyone buys it then. I spent too much on these saws to compete with the barn finds selling for $200 on ebay. The way things are going I'll be lucky to break even. I may have to find a better place to try and sell them or work more on my sales letter skills. Overall I've learned a lot about repairing them and now I'm learning about selling them. I can't believe how cheap they are for the quality that you get. You just have to know how to fix and maintain them I guess. It's just too bad there isn't an after market cylinder for them.
 

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Yeah, I was mildly surprised there was no after market cylinder. I was searching and came up with nothing. Seems to be a line of saws that fell between the cracks as far as after market support with the hard to get parts. Factories in China have reproduced nearly every part of most of Stihl's old saws but no one seems to have bothered with the ignition (except Sagenspezi), clutch side crank bearing and seal (though did you say there are some?), or cylinder for the 045/056. They are fantastic workhorses of saws. Glad there are some folks like you who appreciate them who can share a lot of knowledge about them. Again, to make a boat comparison, my Dad still has his same boat since 1977, the venerable 23' Seacraft center console open fisherman, which more people rebuild than almost any other hull since nothing that good in that size was ever made since. He's on about his 4th Ford 351 Windsor engine in it without a single major overhaul to the rest of the boat. Seacraft enthusiasts might pour $50,000 into a renovation to make essentially a new boat better than any $100,000 equivalent out there, and they'll be lucky to ever find someone willing to pay them what they put into it. Except the diehard fans of the boat who know - and they usually rebuild their own - there just isn't much of a market otherwise. Speaking of the plain 045, I forget sometimes how powerful a good 72-75 cc saw can be. Though you want the big ones for milling, we employed a local guy to help us on the last guanacaste tree we cut up, who was using a Husqvarna 365 and sharpened his chain religiously, and that thing just mowed through all kinds of big pieces freehand cutting. He rightly had no interest in anything bigger as he was a wiry little guy who freehand cut everything. (He had never seen a chainsaw mill in action before though and was impressed with our perfect slab results.) I kind of have the bug now with these saws despite not having a proper one yet, and I may see if the guy with the $150 Magnum is willing to pack it and ship it. Worth it in parts at the price. But I'll wait til my 056 Super arrives first and see what it needs, if anything.
 
The magnums are nice but it's hard to find cylinders. I have a couple damaged ones I'm saving to get re-plated when I have the extra money some day. I think it's between $200 to $300 to have one re-plated. $150 is a great price for one if the cylinder and bearings are good.

As far as the bearings, it's easy to get the flywheel side but not the clutch side. There are still new old stock ones around but hard to find. There are a lot of good used ones that you can find on crankshafts and case halves.

I have a Stihl 044 that is pretty powerful. I haven't compared it yet with the 045 but I think it will out perform the 50mm 045. It blows away my 038 magnum. 5hp saws work well for milling building materials because you end up reducing the log down anyway. It's just the fist few cuts on a large log that can over work them.
 
I have a Canadian friend who is down here part time who has a friend who does really great cylinder work as a favor to him really cheap. My friend is sponsored by DeWalt from snowmobile racing so is able to trade tool favors for a lot of services. I should be able to send cylinders up with him to be replated, he's made the offer before. Yeah, like I might've said initially, I replaced the starter side bearing and got a crankcase half to replace my clutch side bearing but the one in it was worse than the one I had. There's one NOS one on Ebay for $85 that has been there forever cause that's a bit steep. But the guy seemingly knows what he has so never drops the price. I might get the 056 Magnum to work on and keep in the States, to do milling work when I'm in Florida.
 
A little while back I got new clutch side 045 bearings from Brewer Chainsaw Sales for $15 plus shipping. I tried to order another but it never came and I called them and they said their computer was saying they have it but there wasn't any on the shelf. They did offer me used but I wanted new because I have a new crankshaft. I also got new clutch side 056 bearings from them for $55 plus shipping. I'm pretty sure you can find good ones if you look around. My 056 magnum case I got new on ebay with the bearings in it for $45 shipped. That was one of the best deals I've got on ebay. I also got a new old stock 038 case with bearings, crankshaft, clutch and complete points ignition for $75 shipped and then I turned around and sold it for $200.

I'd be willing to send you some damaged cylinders to have re-plated if you could do that. The magnums are badly damaged though so I don't know if they could be fixed. One had a piston ring snag on the exhaust port and was deeply gouged and the other has bad scoring and I tried cleaning the transfer off with muriatic acid and made it worse. I also have two 54mm cylinders. If they could all be successfully redone then maybe you take one of each or we work something out that is reasonable.
 
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