Need opinions on John Deere Tractor FORESTRY CAGE?

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Need some help and opinions about building a cage/skid plate on my John Deere 5205 MWFD tractor. I use it in the woods a lot and nearly poked a hole in my oil filter last week cleaning up in our clear cut. Ive already had a stick poke up in various spots nearly getting something destroyed. Already had one stick sneak under my front grille guard and went through my grille...only thing which saved the radiator was the battery being in front of it.

I also plan to get a backhoe for it and it will have a subframe. BUT I plan to remove the subframe when not using the backhoe and rebolt up my skid plate.

If you have any opinions..let me know! I NEED TO GET THIS DONE. Have a big clear cut to push slash up in piles so Id like to get something built.

Below are pictures of my tractor and various spots around it that can be destroyed easily.
 

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Need some help and opinions about building a cage/skid plate on my John Deere 5205 MWFD tractor. I use it in the woods a lot and nearly poked a hole in my oil filter last week cleaning up in our clear cut. Ive already had a stick poke up in various spots nearly getting something destroyed. Already had one stick sneak under my front grille guard and went through my grille...only thing which saved the radiator was the battery being in front of it.

I also plan to get a backhoe for it and it will have a subframe. BUT I plan to remove the subframe when not using the backhoe and rebolt up my skid plate.

If you have any opinions..let me know! I NEED TO GET THIS DONE. Have a big clear cut to push slash up in piles so Id like to get something built.

Below are pictures of my tractor and various spots around it that can be destroyed easily.
I'll say the same thing I tell other people that ask for options on this, they are a farm tractor not a cat or skidder. If you want ideas look into Valtra forestry tractors like they use in Europe.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
If you haven't, check in your area for the contractors who do right-of-way clearing. They usually know how to equip a tractor properly. Probably heavier tractors than yours but you can get a some good ideas. You can also find their old tractors at the auction sales. Ron
 
I use to work at Cobb county tractor. We built and sold new hollands with a right of way package. Called it a woodsboss. I've seen a few JD set up the same way. Built by http://www.hmtc.us/ maybe contact them. They are just over in Arab,Al.
 
The FIRST thing you need to do is put FOPS/ROPs on that little machine. Forget even using it in any woods until you get that done !!

45 years ago I took the FOPs off my old D2 to replace the clutch, used it before I gotten around to putting the FOPs back on. Spent 2 weeks in the hospital surviving a near fatal mishap.
 
You are opposed to just getting a small skidder?
It would also make short order of that work you described that you need to do compared to that tractor.
Its what they do "turn key" and they are already ironclad.

If you find one with a bad winch, the price goes down quite a bit. (probably wouldn't need it anyway)
 
well im already in debt with the bank with this tractor. bought it from Ag-Pro. so i have to use this. i only use it mainly for mowing and harrowing firebreaks. but recently had our timber cut and trying to push logging slash up.

it does have ROPS but theyre foldable. im debating about just welding the ROPS instead of putting a bolt through it to keep it up
 
well im already in debt with the bank with this tractor. bought it from Ag-Pro. so i have to use this. i only use it mainly for mowing and harrowing firebreaks. but recently had our timber cut and trying to push logging slash up.

it does have ROPS but theyre foldable. im debating about just welding the ROPS instead of putting a bolt through it to keep it up
Don't weld your Rops you'll be asking for something to crack a good grade 8 bolt is more then enough. Why not rent something to get the job done instead of tearing up a good tractor? My only other advice would be full belly skids, full fenders on the ends add some cables with knobs, enclose the rops with the minimum of screen, guard the valving and cylinders.

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Why not rent something to get the job done instead of tearing up a good tractor?
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Thats a really good idea.
How much land are you talking that needs to be cleaned up?
If its not too much, the right piece of equipment could do it much faster.
You may be into the tractor project more time wise and close in money you have to put all that labor and parts into it.
 
well own 300 or so acres but the clear cut is like 40-50 acres. Lots of site prep vendors are too busy. I have the ability and this tractor can do it. but just needs armor on it.

i worked with a site prep vendor before and he used a big articulating farm tractor to chop clear cuts. he did have a dozer to clear up brush but my tractor can do the same.

plus i plan to do work for people on the side
 
I have a couple of 5105 similar to that one. I get the R4/I3 tire option. The mid hydraulic plugs for the joystick are a lot worse for going beyond the field than on the rear like they were a few years before that. Usually I see the cage set up on a 6xxx series with a frame. That tractor is my choice because of it's light weight and a bit lower in the vertical section about where the steering cylinder is compared to say the 5x10, 5x20. It does have mechanical brakes so tearing a hydraulic line won't happen. If you do get a different model with hydraulic brakes and tear up a line I found out that you still have a brake on the good side if you do not push both pedals. That is a lot on the front, the rear tires are larger that is where I generally want a load if not on both ends. I do not recommend using the differential lock on a regular basis.

I seem to recall someone discussing something along this line over on greentractortalk discussion group in the utility tractor section. I guess there are threaded holes to attach stuff underneath but the loader and the grill guard are using the points on the side. The front block is 5/8, the block near the steering cylinder 16mm with essentially a big locating pin, and the sides are 20mm. Not sure how the loader framework ties in, but all of those are likely already in use. I put a front tree point hitch on one of mine. It ties the front block, steering block, and the engine casting together, these models are kind of weak just behind (maybe in front would have to re examine) the steering cylinder in my opinion. I might suggest piping the plugs for the hydraulics of the loader to another place. Even re locating that valve body is worth thinking about. Or just getting off a lot to remove the hazards.
 
40-50 acres

did you mean 4-5 acres ?

It will take a LONG time with a toy tractor.
btw, I consider my Ford 4500 and JD440s and bobcat as toys.

Look at the thread discussion Pulp, PNW style
 
40-50 acres

did you mean 4-5 acres ?

It will take a LONG time with a toy tractor.
btw, I consider my Ford 4500 and JD440s and bobcat as toys.

Look at the thread discussion Pulp, PNW style
I agree, only time I use our 6410 in the woods is spraying, mechanical planting, or road work that's doing a lot of running around. If you're doing 40 to 50 acres I'd want a cat with a brush rake and a shovel to shake and pile with.

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I have a 6200 cab 4x4 Deere that is in the woods all the time.. I backed up onto a stump not long ago that was hidden in some tall weeds and ripped my fuel tank open .. $800 for another one...
 
I think the OP knows his tractor is not ideal for the job, but he may be like my late father - "more time than money". He (my father) accomplished a lot with very little. If "time is money" to the OP then he should re-think his plans as many have suggested. Those things said, if the original plan is pursued, there will be more cash needed continually as time alone can't solve every woe posed.

Ron
 
Especially with the transmission on that tractor. Having to come to a full stop and clutch every time you change direction while pushing brush will be miserable vs a U shift or hystat dozer transmission.
 
Well we usually hire site prep vendors to do the work but I feel that I have the time to do it myself when I am off and I could potentially save money but the tractor needs armor aka FORESTRY CAGE. sorta like the picture below.

My tractor is a sync reverser transmission..yes I have to push the clutch in but dont have to stop.

I do have a root rake as you see in the photo. Its a root grapple so i can pick up stuff as well. All I will be doing is push limbs and tops of trees into piles to burn.

But i still use it to harrow firebreaks snd mow so I still will come in contact with limbs and sticks and other things.
 

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heres one..i may do it like this then.
 
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