Need some tractor knowledge

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I've been looking to buy a tractor. My biggest problem is that I have ZERO knowledge about them. My main goal for this tractor is (brush hogging, rear mount pto snow blower, dragging trees off the 3 point)
From what little I have learned I THINK need at least 50 hp. I definately prefer gas over diesel, power steering, live PTO, and I want to stick with what I consider to be a common unit, (JD, internat, case, ford, allis).
What I don't know is do I want a 2 speed tranny (hi-lo)
do I want a hand clutch (an old tractor guy says they are the best thing for brush hogging and snow blowing)
(something about the hand clutch is wet where the foot clutches are dry)
I just need some more info all around.
 
I want gas for 2 reasons. One is cold weather starting, and 2 is they are generally much cheaper to buy. Ya I figure I will be buying a pretty old unit. I'm looking for $5000 or less.
 
Independent is best. Independent has it's own on/off lever that controls it and is independent of the clutch. The lever is the only thing that turns it on and off. With live power You clutch the tractor, engage the pto, then let the clutch half way out. The pto then starts to turn but the tractor stay stationary. Let the clutch out all the way and the tractor moves.

Live power is nice when brush hogging because if you run over a stump or something, you can stomp the clutch and stop everything, pto, tractor and all.

I don't see where you would have to have 50hp, especially over in the flat land, but horse power is nice.

Some nice tractors in that range;

Ford 3000, 3600, 3610, 3910. about 42 pto hp when new
Ford 4000, 4600, 4610 about 52 pto hp when new
IH 424, 404 about 40 pto hp when new
Ih 544 about 54 hp

One that fits you description almost to a T would be an Allis Chalmers D-15 or D-17 Both of these did not have either live or independent pto, but had two clutches. A foot clutch and a two speed hand clutch. You would put the hand clutch in neutral, step on the foot clutch then engage the pto. Let out the foot clutch and the pto would turn. pull the hand clutch back and you take off in low range, push it forward and you took off in high range. The beauty of it is...you can stomp on the foot clutch and stop everything, or put the hand clutch in neutral and just stop the tractor. if you are brush hogging away in high range and come upon a thick area, just pull the hand clutch back into low while you need it, then back to hi range when the going gets easy again. Love these ACs. Been looking for one myself. The D-15 was about 45 hp and the D-17 I think was in the 60 hp area.
 
I have a 444 IH 45 hp (still for sale) and replaced it with a deere 2720 32 hp I have a 5 ft brush hog and occasionally skid some logs but find it easier to cut them where they fall and haul them out with a trailer

for brush hogging I much prefer the hydrostatic trans in the deere and either of them have plenty of power to turn it

I would say that you are probably looking at a bigger tractor than you really need depending on how big an area and what size cut brush hog and blower you are thinking of

A live pto is driven separate from the transmission

Also if possible buy a tractor with a loader you will use it more than any other attachment on the tractor

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 
Given your price range you should have no issue finding a nice older 4wd unit. Depending on the terrain I would be cautious about a 2wd, esp where you stated you would like to do some twitching.

I would recommend a older kubota, deere, kioti, yanmar, case Japanese type compacts. Something in the 30-40hp range. if you can scrape together a couple more grand and hold out for a loader. I think you will quickly find a loader is the best attachment money can buy.

I really like the 50 series kubotas , built to compete in the American market there rear ends are much stronger than previous models, very simply easy to use and maintain.

I bought my first tractor a kubota l2850 for $8700 with loader in excellent condition with 1k hrs, sold it a year latter for 13k with a winch that i bought for 1800. BE PATIENT. If I was not sitting in the hospital with my new baby boy I would be off looking at another 50 series right now on clist.
 
I can't help with tractors, but don't get a Freedom/John Deere MX6 brushog. They had problems with brittle shafts on the gearbox. The clutch on them tends to weld itself together over the winter, so every spring you have to loosen the bolts up, spin it a couple of revolutions, then tighten the bolts back up. (even when stored inside out of the weather) Lesson learned the hard way - I didn't do it, and the parts alone to fix it are $900.
 
Research Parts Availability,

When you start looking at older iron one of the big things to consider is getting repair parts. I'm not saying older iron is unreliable, quite the contrary, but if and when something breaks you'll want to be able to fix it or have it repaired.

I'm partial to Kubotas, but that's me, and I know there are a lot of other good machines by other manufacturers out there.

Take Care
 
Don't forget the older ford Japanese compacts esp the 10/20 series, the 1720-1920-2120 are great tractors, very capable machines with great Japanese engineering. The 20 series are very user friendly and a pleasure to operate.
 
Research Parts Availability,

When you start looking at older iron one of the big things to consider is getting repair parts. I'm not saying older iron is unreliable, quite the contrary, but if and when something breaks you'll want to be able to fix it or have it repaired.

I'm partial to Kubotas, but that's me, and I know there are a lot of other good machines by other manufacturers out there.

Take Care
This right here is the best info yet I believe. If you're looking for something 40+ years old, you had better focus on the models that still have support. Nothing worse than needing mowing done, wood pulled, or the driveway blown, and being stopped up by a $35 dollar part that is NLA.
 
$5K won't buy much of a compact 4x4 tractor in my area so I wouldn't waste me time. With that price I surmise you will be limited to 2WD farm tractors which sounds like it will suit you fine. I've been lookin at JD 1010 an 2010 models. Nice tractors.
 
I have a case ih 585 2wd diesel that I believe is 50hp 8 speed shuttle shift. It does everything that I ask of it. It runs a 84" snowblower, 72" woods tree/ brush mower. Will lift scary amounts of weight when needed (weight box or blade on rear). And skids out logs like crazy in the winter.
We just bought a 24hp yanmar compact and it is good for little stuff and very handy, but for the price range you are looking for. I would say go with a older full size tractor if you can. The compacts are nice, but when you need the extra grunt you will be glad you went big.

Steven
 
I really have no desire for a compact. I want a tractor with some size and grunt behind it.
 
Not sure what the woods in your area is like but would highly recommend waiting out saving up and at least getting 4wd
 
Of the major brands you mentioned, John Deere and IH will likely have the best parts support, but will also typically command higher prices. Case and Oliver would be next on my list.

Models built from the mid to late 50's to mid to late 60's should fit in that budget easily. Maybe into 70's.

Hand clutch and power steering is an uncommon combination on anything other than the 2 cylinder John Deere's, which I'm not a particular fan of. And they're pricey.

In my area, it's almost easier to find tractors in the 60 hp range or more for the same amount of money.

If you stay on the older end of that range, you could get a loader and still be in your budget. Keep tire condition in mind. A new set of tires could easily run $1400-$2000.
 
And what is the diff between "live pto and independant pto?

Here's my take on this. Older tractors (pre 50's) had non live pto. The pto was shifted into and out of gear. The pto only operated when the tractor clutch was engaged. If you stopped the tractor, the pto would stop. For stationary work, you shifted the pto into gear, the transmission into neutral, and engaged the clutch to start the pto.

When live pto was introduced, the pto was given it's own clutch. You simply engaged the pto with this clutch completely independent of the transmission clutch. The pto drive shaft was connected live to the engine, i.e. it was always in gear, but the output shaft was controlled by the pto clutch, regardless of the state of the transmission or transmission clutch.

Allis Chalmers had their own thing going on,so tthat's another story.
 
Actually live pto is controlled by the clutch. Independent pto has it's own clutch independent of the tranny clutch. . Another term for "live power" is "two stage clutch."


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If you stopped the tractor, the pto would stop.
Or read: "tractor keeps rolling until PTO driven implement stops turning"...that's a bad deal if brush hogging on rough terrain, especially if that tractor has weak brakes, as some of the older ones did. (8N)
I think the older Cases are still parts supported fairly well, somebody correct me if I'm wrong. Case 430 has independent PTO and 45-ish HP, hi-lo trans and should be in your price range
 

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