zogger
Tree Freak
Quite interesting, just looked at their youtube vid. So, do you just buy full replacement axles, or what, say if you already have a small trailer?
Need your advice on trailer design
- Thread starter stihly dan
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Quite interesting, just looked at their youtube vid. So, do you just buy full replacement axles, or what, say if you already have a small trailer?
You'd have to weld in some mounting brackets .
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
some pics maybe?
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
After a long wait its coming along quickly. should be done by the time the snow melts and scrounging is in high gear.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
So what exactly did you decide to build? 'Cause from the pics it looks like an ordinary "car hauler" type trailer. Care to elaborate on the "custom" stuff that is not so obvious at first glance?
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's about what it is. Ordinary. Only difference is it is built stronger than a store bought one. The deck is also as wide as the outer edges of the fenders. Because it is free labor, there will be 4 coats of black rustoleum.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Make sure they do good prep before paint. Grind/sand as needed, wipe all surfaces with MEK (if they will use that, or paint thinner if not) use a good primer, and then the paint. I have not been too impressed with these new "primer and paint" all in one formulas BTW. Paint is one of those "you get what you pay for" items and even then it is still all about a proper prep job. My brother found a brand of spray paint at our local NAPA store that will lay down like a factory baked on finish if prepped correctly. It's about $12-$15 per can though
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just dropped of 1 12,000 lb drop leg jack and 2 8,000 lb drop legs jacks for the rear. Although now I'm thinking of grabbing another 12,000 for the front, 1 on each side that are controlled by 1 arm. this way the none tipping trailer can be a tipping trailer. 
And a special thanks to @ValleyFirewood and @Locust Cutter for this idea. On a bad note, I did find out today that the box incorporated into the tongue is a no go. Welding instructor thinks its best to have a middle support rail as well. so it will have to be a purchased box on top.
And a special thanks to @ValleyFirewood and @Locust Cutter for this idea. On a bad note, I did find out today that the box incorporated into the tongue is a no go. Welding instructor thinks its best to have a middle support rail as well. so it will have to be a purchased box on top.stihly dan
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Locust Cutter
Sawing for Sanity
Stihly,
I hadn't thought about the middle support stringer for the tongue so that's a good call on his part. The trailer I had seen the in-tongue box on was a 14k trailer with HEAVY duty either I-beam or box member (IDK) for the tongue... It didn't need any help. Either way, it's looking good and I'm envious of the fabrication skills... If i's not too rude, would you mind either in here or in pm telling me about how much you have wrapped up into this venture?
I hadn't thought about the middle support stringer for the tongue so that's a good call on his part. The trailer I had seen the in-tongue box on was a 14k trailer with HEAVY duty either I-beam or box member (IDK) for the tongue... It didn't need any help. Either way, it's looking good and I'm envious of the fabrication skills... If i's not too rude, would you mind either in here or in pm telling me about how much you have wrapped up into this venture?
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Can't a box be built "around" or maybe on-top-of the hitch frame?
Locust Cutter
Sawing for Sanity
Yes you could, but you could likely buy an aluminum truncated triangle box with lock a lot cheaper than fabricating one. It would also be much more corrosion resistant than steel, except for the possibility of the galvanic corrosion where the aluminum and steel would meet if there were no rubber grommets or pads to separate them.
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, but in the frame would have given more room less space taken up. There will be some sort of box there, just not in the opening. I have to pop in to make sure the lights, have reverse lights.
When you put the chain box in the tongue it creates another, the drop leg is underneath. It is amazing how the trailer can get unhooked in a puddle so you get wet crawling under to pick the drop leg up. The jack is easier to place just behind the coupler, get a short ball mount and drop the gate on the truck before its final location, then give it another inch or two. Then you are covered for the majority of vehicles to drop tailgates when hooked up without hitting the jack.
Like this one.
Not sure if they have built the tongue but I like it about 5 1/2' long opposed to the 4' that many trailer mfg like to build them. I prefer the jack to be mounted between the deck and ball. If it's close to the ball like in the a-frame couplers its tough to open the tail gate and if its close to the deck I feel cramped with certain items on the deck. I often put my excavator bucket up in the wire mesh chain storage area. Also I like round tube welded in between stake pockets for tie down points.
Locust Cutter
Sawing for Sanity
I guess (not that it's truly needed) but I'd like a pair pf 3-4K drop-leg jack mounted on the outward edges, akin to a GN trailer. Then the the handle could be on the side, with a box or chain tray in the tongue and the drop-legs would be easily accessible.
