new project: milling BIG beech/mill build.

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markvanzee

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dear milling friends,

I have started a new project lately, I've bought a beech logs that measures 1.85 meter/ 73'' at the butt and is 5 meters long (196'') It weights 9.5 tons. I have been chainsaw milling since i was 18, so a couple of years of experience but this is my largest log so far. but i only cut maybe 2 logs a year because I don't really have the space to mill the logs. but gladly my employer let me delivery this log to my work so I can mill it there. this really helps because I can also use all the equipment; forklifts, woodworking/metalwork equipment.

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stihl880 with 48'' for scale

I have a 42'' alaskan style mill but logosol/stihl (the red frame) with a 48'' bar and i have a logosol big mill basic system. But I have always been intrigued by the dual head milling setups. and since I usually cut slabs for table tabs etc. I have had a couple situations were I have been slabbing freehand because my other mill couldn't handle the logs.

so I've started making a new dual-headed mill. this will run a 87'' bar, with 404 stihl ripping chain. I've constructed the mill with aluminium profiles 40 x 80 mm, and made the rest out of metal. i've used the existing holes in the bar to mount the bar to the mill. I figured this was better than bar clamps since this would allow me to remove the chain for sharpening easiers. for this reason I also plan on running without clutch cover. only a clamp plate. I will add another safety guard so don't worry..

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the big problem that occurs with these long bars is bar sag. I have fitted a couple plates to tension the bar, this seems to work, at first the bar had sagged quite a bit even with the 2 powerheads. but I was able to remove this sag with the adjustment bolts.

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I plan on making 2 U-shaped guide shoes under the mill to run over rails. I have aluminium 100x100 rails to run over. I have a variable speed 12volt winch that I put rope on to run the mill. both the chainsaws have remote throttles. I'm looking forward to milling this log! I have access to a gopro to mill the process.

any advice on thickness/drying of the slabs? I thought cutting them about 120 mm thick (5'') but I have no experience with drying/warping of slabs these size. I know beech does move a lot. I can bring the slabs to the lumber mill across to street, to have them dried, but i'm afraid they have very little to no experience drying this stuff. I'm thinking about buying a logosol sauno kiln, any experiences? would love to hear.

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some more pictures of the log:

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Wow. What a great project. The grain in that log must be very interesting. Sorry I cannot offer any suggestions, but the grain looks like it will make the drying a 'beech' unless you can find someone who can steam dry it. I also have read somewhere your countrymen are experts in this technique, so there should be a commercial kiln operator that will be able to help you or at least offer some advice.

Good luck and please keep us up to date with the progress.
 
thanks for the link, looks interesting. I believe the logosol sauno wood kiln is based on this principle too.
Thank you. I thought they would be too small for your slabs but I see they do two sizes of dryer and you build the actual kiln/charge box. If you stay within the capacity or max dimensions of the 4 kW dryer, can you build it long and wide enough to take some of these slabs? I do not know what those dimensions are for these kilns but it would be good to know.

Occasionally I have many interesting forks and wavy grain chunks of wood I pile up for my wood turning friend. I think one of those kilns might be a superb option for him - if he roughed out the bowls from green timber then put them in the kiln, they may dry faster, with less defects, and retain colour better.

Hmmm, thanks for nothing, now I have another bit of equipment on my wish list that I can't afford.
:)
 
That looks awesome! I'm using the Sauno Kiln from logosol and i'm happy with it. I usually dry 2" thick slabs and they be dry within five weeks. Looking forward to seeing more pics from you.
 
That was a great paper!!! I'd love to be able to dry beech in 3 days!!! it's a super cool principle too! using increased atmospheric pressure quickly move the moisture out of the wood. I'm sure i'd burn down the garage if i attempted this myself.....:blob2:
 
I would imagine with all those leaders you will have issues with cracks and warping. Hopefully they hold up though. Good luck!
 
Nice work on the mill build. Cool project and interesting tree. I agree with BigOakAdot that you are likely to have a lot of movement in the slabs. 5" is really thick. If it was me, I would go 3-3.5". They will still be incredibly heavy. Look forward to seeing the inside.
 
My (limited) experience with beech is that it is very difficult to air dry without excessive movement. I've also had bad luck with cracking. I hope the kiln you are considering will help with your slabs.

Here are a couple of threads on my experience milling and then air drying some 48" wide beech slabs.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/not-quite-beach-milling.250069/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/problem-drying-large-thick-beech-slabs.257506/

Several of these slabs were so thoroughly cracked after only partial drying that I wound up cutting them down into much smaller pieces, basically table leg and pepper mill sized. Quite a waste! Others that did not crack as bad still wound up cupping so much as they dried that in order to have any thickness remaining after they were flattened I had to rip them in half.

And these slabs were clear wood from the trunk of a tree. Looking at your piece I have to +1 for BigOakAdot's comment, slabs from that will be a real challenge to dry. I think your losses will be high even with the most gentle kiln drying. However, if I had that log I would definitely mill it too! Hope to see more pictures of it as you progress.

Dan
 
I figured this was better than bar clamps since this would allow me to remove the chain for sharpening easiers. for this reason I also plan on running without clutch cover. only a clamp plate. I will add another safety guard so don't worry..

When I tried that, sawdust, resin and bar oil ended up all over the RHS of the powerhead including the cylinder fins, and the filter blocked up quicker. Adding a minimal guard to help shoot the sawdust and oil away from the saw really helps. The Exhaust of my 880 also further shoots the sawdust away from the operators feet so I never have to walk in or on sawdust.
 
When I tried that, sawdust, resin and bar oil ended up all over the RHS of the powerhead including the cylinder fins, and the filter blocked up quicker. Adding a minimal guard to help shoot the sawdust and oil away from the saw really helps. The Exhaust of my 880 also further shoots the sawdust away from the operators feet so I never have to walk in or on sawdust.

thanks Bob, I'm going to make a guard to redirect the shavings/oil etc.
 
Nice work! Looks like its running great. I hope everything keeps going well and that you get a bunch of really nice lumber out of that log. Hoping to see more video as things progress.
 
Any thoughts to sealing the log ends with something..? Only reason I ask is some logs will dry out and check/crack at the ends and make that part of the log waste... Is that an issue with this?
 
Are there any pictures of the big beech log slabs please? By now they should be out of the kiln and hopefully not looking like giant crinkle-cut potato chips or corrugated roofing.
 
Hi KiwiBro,

I do not have any pictures of the dry slabs yet, I have been milling today, have cut 2 slabs of the BIG BEECH log. (the log in the vid is a different log)
these slabs will go straight into the kiln, no air drying so i guess these will be drying for the next 2 months at least. I have been filming the milling process today and will post this as soon as i get the video ready.

mark
 
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