New saw compression

[Deleted member 135597]

. That's a good idea....I am goin to start putting some chains I don't use in bags with a little squirt of WD-40.... I try to only alternate between 2-chains for each bar(for wear reasons)....I actually seen that I need to dress my 20" stihl bar, it's not a replaceable sprocket tip just a regular roller tip style....I need to get a pro-stihl 20" bar....I got a Oregon power-match I use on the 461, it don't have that much use so we will see how it wears....

I tell ya I got a Oregon 520 grinder and I love it..... hell it don't take no time to grind a 25" chain, and I think it makes a great cutting edge...I made a few test cuts with a RS chain in some ash and had some good long chips.....once you kind of get the hang of it and know what cutter profile you want, it becomes fun and easy(for me anyway)!!!!View attachment 540504View attachment 540506

I have the same grinder. What angles are you doing? Mine is set up 30/60/0. I'm actually playing around with files now thinking I can get the chains sharper. I'm using a stihl fg2 file guide. My plan is to grind the chains to keep cutter size consistent then giving them a couple file strokes.

 

[Khntr85]

I have the same grinder. What angles are you doing? Mine is set up 30/60/0. I'm actually playing around with files now thinking I can get the chains sharper. I'm using a stihl fg2 file guide. My plan is to grind the chains to keep cutter size consistent then giving them a couple file strokes.

Yes I went 30/60/0 on that one.... see I also think you can get the chain sharper hand filing.....however a light bulb went off when a local guy told me "yes hand filing will get the chain sharper, but does a sharpenrwood chiesel do better than a wood chisel with the correct angle"...basically saying if the chain is to sharp the angle will not hold up near as long....

So with that said I love it right now...and the time it saves me is a huge bonus compared to hand filing....

I will add that I will always hand file, just not nearly as much now!!!!

 

[Khntr85]

Oh and I have a grandberg bar-clamp file and let me tell you I can get a chain way to sharp with that damn thing!!!!!

I used to use it a lot to correct my angles!!!!

 

[Karla]

Woody - Thats is what I do also, In the field I keep a few chains with me so, I can keep cutting and swap chains or even chainsaws, or If I stop for lunch in the woods, I always have my files with me, and will dress up the chain a little during a quick lunch break, then back to cutting. I can usually tell by feel or just watching my cutting that the chainsaw is getting dull, especially If I have to apply a little extra pressure to get thru a log or I just start seeing dust and not big wood chips. Even though I am very careful and conscious of not filing one side more than the other or careful not to change the angle its almost inevitable it will happen with hand sharpening. However after several filings, I take it to the grinder to correct all the problems. The only dislike of grinders is you do lose more metal grinding teeth than sharpening with a file and just dressing it a little in the field, and that is also being careful with how much even very small amounts, It seems like the teeth disappear quickly on a grinder versus a file method. Anyhow I use a combination of both and believe that the sharpest chain is the best way to really cut wood. Lol.

Just fell a big red oak yesterday behind my shop, and it went the wrong way, ugh I did have it planned correctly but only mistake was the tree has been dead for the second year, and was in pretty bad condition about 70 feet tall, I should have taken it down last year. I wanted it to go straight back away from my shop, but it actually broke one of my wedges and went off to the side, the good news is it didn't fall backwards and come down on my steel roof building that would have been really ugly. Lol.

 

[Deleted member 135597]

Woody - Thats is what I do also, In the field I keep a few chains with me so, I can keep cutting and swap chains or even chainsaws, or If I stop for lunch in the woods, I always have my files with me, and will dress up the chain a little during a quick lunch break, then back to cutting. I can usually tell by feel or just watching my cutting that the chainsaw is getting dull, especially If I have to apply a little extra pressure to get thru a log or I just start seeing dust and not big wood chips. Even though I am very careful and conscious of not filing one side more than the other or careful not to change the angle its almost inevitable it will happen with hand sharpening. However after several filings, I take it to the grinder to correct all the problems. The only dislike of grinders is you do lose more metal grinding teeth than sharpening with a file and just dressing it a little in the field, and that is also being careful with how much even very small amounts, It seems like the teeth disappear quickly on a grinder versus a file method. Anyhow I use a combination of both and believe that the sharpest chain is the best way to really cut wood. Lol.

Just fell a big red oak yesterday behind my shop, and it went the wrong way, ugh I did have it planned correctly but only mistake was the tree has been dead for the second year, and was in pretty bad condition about 70 feet tall, I should have taken it down last year. I wanted it to go straight back away from my shop, but it actually broke one of my wedges and went off to the side, the good news is it didn't fall backwards and come down on my steel roof building that would have been really ugly. Lol.

yeah those rotten trees are tricky for me too. glad it didn't hit your shop!

 

[Ryan'smilling]

yeah those rotten trees are tricky for me too. glad it didn't hit your shop!

I started using an open faced notch a few years ago. I only go deep enough to get 70-80% of the diameter of the tree. One benefit I've found is for partially rotten and hollow trees. By only cutting in a few inches as opposed to half way into the thing, I usually am left with a much healthier hinge. I've felled several over mature red oaks, and after I get them on the ground it's cool to see how much healthier the fibers are where I made the hinge than where they would have been with a traditional or Humboldt face cut.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Wow that says a lot....did you notice if the bar had a lot of flexibility or did it seem plenty rigid.....

I didn't have a regular solid 28" bar right there to compare it to. I only made a few cuts with the thing actually, but it seemed plenty rigid. If you're someone who pries the piece out of the face cut (what's that piece called anyway?) then maybe it's not for you, but it was a seriously nice bar. I know there's a thread redbull660 did that compares rigidity and weights of lots of bars including this one, but I don't know where it is. Anyway, his was the bar I ran. That dude seriously put some effort into trying literally dozens of bars and that's the one he settled on as the very best. When we talked he said he's gonna sell almost all his bars and keep 2 28" tsumara light bars and a 41" cannon. Out of probably 200 (I'm guessing here)that he tried.

 

[Deleted member 135597]

All the bars locked and loaded. 32,28, and 25 are ES LIGHT bars and the 20 is an E bar

 

[Khntr85]

I didn't have a regular solid 28" bar right there to compare it to. I only made a few cuts with the thing actually, but it seemed plenty rigid. If you're someone who pries the piece out of the face cut (what's that piece called anyway?) then maybe it's not for you, but it was a seriously nice bar. I know there's a thread redbull660 did that compares rigidity and weights of lots of bars including this one, but I don't know where it is. Anyway, his was the bar I ran. That dude seriously put some effort into trying literally dozens of bars and that's the one he settled on as the very best. When we talked he said he's gonna sell almost all his bars and keep 2 28" tsumara light bars and a 41" cannon. Out of probably 200 (I'm guessing here)that he tried.

I did see the videos he made very nice of him.....