New Split-fire 3265 Arrived!

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Waylan said, "...........and several others with the log lift attempting to raise about a 24" round that I am guessing weighs around 150 lbs or so...."
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Perhaps you better double that weight. I believe oak, for example, would weigh about 200 lb per foot if 24" in dia. Check the chart upstairs. :dizzy:
 
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Suspension is fairly soft. The real issue as I see it is the axle is not wide enough. The wheel on the side of the log lift should extend at least to the edge of the log lift IMO.

In another thread wood doctor said my weight guesstimate of 150 pounds for the oak round may be off. So I looked up green weights for various oaks, calculated a 24" round, 16" long, averaging 60 lb/cf, the round could weigh around 250 pounds. The tree was cut down a week ago, cut into rounds the same day and I rolled them onto my trailer. I am guessing the diameter is 24", and the length is close to 16", but I did not put a tape to either dimension.

Either way, even if it did weigh 250 pounds, that is still 30% less than their rating on the log lift. And their video on their website shows a much larger log being lifted, then the guy rolls an additional 16" or so round onto the log lift and lifts them both with no tipping from the splitter. I am sure it is a larger unit than I have, and looks to be unsuspended.

Waylan
 
Log Lift Overrated

Waylan, it sound like they overrated that log lift. Perhaps they figured not too many customers would be cutting hardwoods like oak, ash and locust that are really dense, even when dry.

A friend of mine and I just cut up a 28" dia. mulberry tree that was green. The 24" to 28" dia. logs at 16" lengths could not even be lifted by both of us onto either a wheelbarrow or my truck's tailgate. We finally got ramps and dragged them on board with a winch.

I said afterwards, "John, next time we tow the splitter to the big rounds and process them at the drop." HeHeHeHeh :dizzy:
 
yeah you'd certainly benefit from a wider stance, but you might gain something by stiffining up the suspension. how much i don't know, never tried. i don't know a lot about the torsion setup, i've always used leaf springs.

your estimate of the log weight is probably too low as stated but as you mentioned if its rated to pick up 350 it better pick up 350 and if they are smart they would engineer it to pick up a lot more than that to avoid any legal trouble.

i'm not trying to ad fuel to the fire or to stir it up and upset you more, just agreeing more and more each time i look at those pictures that i'd be right in the same boat as you. almost to the point where i'd tell them i want my money back. its one thing to ad a log lift to an existing splitter that you made, its quite another to have to modify someone else's product because their design doesn't work correctly.
 
With the axle blocked up, essentially taking any spring out of the suspension, the splitter still tipped with the same load applied, so I don't think the solution is to just remove the suspension. I think the wheel needs to extend out as far as the edge of the log lift.......or at least pretty close. Right now it is set 10" or so inside of it.

Right now I am going to give Matt with split-fire the opportunity to see what he is willing to do to satisfy me.........and I kinda think he will since he has been super nice so far.

Otherwise I will let Visa battle it out. The splitter has lots of potential to be great, and I am sure that if it didn't want to tip I would be ecstatic with it right now. But as it is I feel I paid a premium for something I did not receive.

Just keeping my fingers crossed that I can work something out with split-fire. All I plan to ask for is the funds for materials needed to make it work right. I can do the labor...........I would also like my warranty to remain intact as part of the deal.

Waylan
 
Waylan for a quick fix try securing the oppisite axle side from the lift. Maybe a long stake or something of that design pounded into the ground and affix the axle to it.

Seems like that lift design was not thought out enough in the design stages. Some oak 24"X24" rounds can weigh in excess of 300lbs and what good is a lift that cant pick heavy rounds up. You spent good $$ on that splitter and lift option, and its the manufacturers bad to put that lift combo on that splitter chassis.
 
There are alot of easy solutions to the problem and thanks for the suggestion...........but if I spend $3300 on a splitter, I don't want to have to carry a stake, rope or chain, and big hammer and stake the splitter down everytime just to use it. It should do whatever I ask of it as long as it is within the mfg's ratings. If I had attempted to lift a 355 pound log and that is what caused the tipping problem I would have said "wow, when they rated the log lift at 350 they meant 350", but I couldn't have really complained too much.

I agree that it was a poor choice to offer the log lift for that chassis without modifications. I am surprised that all the searching and reading I did prior to purchasing that no one else had the same experience I have had.

I definitely think I can fix it to make it work..........just surprised is all.

Waylan
 
There are alot of easy solutions to the problem and thanks for the suggestion...........but if I spend $3300 on a splitter, I don't want to have to carry a stake, rope or chain, and big hammer and stake the splitter down everytime just to use it. It should do whatever I ask of it as long as it is within the mfg's ratings. If I had attempted to lift a 355 pound log and that is what caused the tipping problem I would have said "wow, when they rated the log lift at 350 they meant 350", but I couldn't have really complained too much.

I agree that it was a poor choice to offer the log lift for that chassis without modifications. I am surprised that all the searching and reading I did prior to purchasing that no one else had the same experience I have had.

I definitely think I can fix it to make it work..........just surprised is all.

Waylan


I agree totally. I would be screaming at the rep IF he could not fix the wrong.

Good luck and keep us posted on the manufacturers remedy.
 
Matt from Split-Fire has emailed me back today..........he was out yesterday. He assures me they will resolve the problem and I will be taken care of.

He said the video was of a 4290 and the axle is 1.5 inches wider on the log lift side but the splitter weighs over a 100 pounds more and that most likely makes the biggest difference.

I will post what their suggestion is to make things right. Stay tuned.

Waylan
 
Matt's suggestion per email today:

"Waylan,

Here’s what I did find out. The original log splitter that you had ordered (without suspension) can lift 350 lbs, at 370 lbs it starts to tip. What I am going to do is try and make a bracket the will fit onto your reservoir or the 2 x 2 tube that hold the suspension mount and support the spindle. I think this must be where the problem is. I took some pictures on my phone and on the weekend I will try to save them to my computer and send them to you. My problem right now is that I don’t have another 3265 here with the suspension that I can make a bracket with. As soon as I have one I am going to get it made up for you, which will likely be next week."

Here is my reply:

"Matt,

What if I come up with a list of materials I need to do the axle the way I want and split-fire reimburse me for the materials? I am proficient at fabrication work, have a welder, plasma cutter, etc.

I would want larger tires (more flotation if not aired to max psi, somewhat of a suspension effect) and a wider axle. I could unbolt the torsion suspension with spindles and wheels and send them back to you.

For a ballpark figure I am thinking for around 300 I could do what I am talking about. Let me know what you think. Of course, i would send photos after I finish."

Here is Matt's response:

"Waylan,

If you would prefer to do it that way that is fine with me. You just send the axle and wheel ass. back to me and I will credit you $300. I’m pretty sure that $300 will cover your cost on parts plus a bunch of labor. I would suggest not to make it too wide because it just makes it harder to move around with your atv and takes up a lot more room for storage. Like I said the biggest problem I think is the torsion suspension is giving, will send you those pictures when I manage to get them off my phone."

And my last response:

"Matt,

I am not trying to get any compensation for my labor. The 13" tire and wheel assemblies I saw at tractor supply were $99 each. A ready-made axle with hubs was $119. If I JUST bought those 3 pieces I would be looking at about $350 after tax is added. There is another trailer supply company in town I am planning on checking prices at, but they are normally a little higher on their prices. Like I said, I do not want anything for my labor.

I will send your axle and wheel assemblies back Monday.

I will not make the axle stick out further than the log lift...........if I can get the log lift to fit between trees then the axle being shorter will be no problem."

So to wrap it all up, Matt wanted to make a bracket to lock out the suspension with hopes that it would solve the tipping. Personally I would rather use larger tires that can have a more give to them on the road, easier to roll around by hand, and extend the axle just shy of how far the log lift sticks out when fully raised. I think Matt feels I am trying to stick it to split-fire, regardless, he has agreed to my terms. I am satisfied he has agreed to it, but don't like someone feeling I am trying to pull one over on them. Not to mention the trouble of modifying something that should've never left their factory unless it met their ratings. In the end I feel I will be happy with what I add to their design.

I also plan to extend the tongue 3'........as it is you can't turn sharp with the log lift raised or else the atv will contact the log lift. A longer tongue should reduce the tongue weight at the hitch making it easier to maneuver by hand, and the larger tires should make rolling easier. I will add photos to my photobucket page and post here when they are loaded.

Waylan
 
it sounds like they are willing to work with you.

i give them credit for that.it looks too low to me and that is even with the suspension.

i'm glad i went American.all i added was the front table.machine has been flawless.i love it.best wood splitter i have ever used.well thought out and built.

i don't think i can buy another small engine if it isn't a Honda.
 
Redid split-fire axle

Hey guys........this is my first run at correcting the tipping. I may make the axle a little shorter on the log lift side, haven't decided yet.

Works great now!
 
Update: Besides the changing the axle width, there are a couple other modifications I am in the process of making on the split-fire. One is extending the tongue, and the other I am still pondering over is making an air dam to prevent warm engine air blowing towards the operator. Yesterday I used a cutting disc on an angle grinder and cut the welds on the hitch and removed the hitch. The 2" square tubing extended out about 5 1/2" past the 6" x 6" beam. I welded an 18 1/2" long piece of 2" square tubing to the bottom of the existing 2" square tubing, overlapping the extended portion by 5 1/2". This allows the splitter to be at the proper working height while attached to my atv, and extends the tongue about 13" so that the log lift doesn't hit my atv when turning sharp. I forgot to take photos but will do so soon and post them to my photobucket album. I will also update the the thread when I decide on the air dam.

Waylan
 
sounds like a lot of BS.

i think i would have just asked for my money back.no one should have to spend that much money on something and then have to modify it.
no company should ship out a product they haven't made sure operates correctly.
 
I agree about the axle width not being enough to prevent tipping. Problem there is I would probably be out shipping both ways..........to the tune of $300 each way.

The extended tongue is not something offered and is just me customizing the splitter per my personal preference. $10 in metal and it is fine with me now.

The air diverter from the warm engine air is something Matt says they've never had a complaint on. My eyes get irritated easily, and it picks up some sawdust and dirt......not enough to see but enough to notice when it gets in my eyes. Probably $5 in sheet metal and a little fab work and it will be good to go. I originally made an air diverter out of cardboard that worked great, just not sturdy enough to last.

In all honesty, I probably could've found minor flaws in anything I bought........a little change here or there........the only thing I could not handle on the split-fire is it tipping with the large rounds. Since I was going to redo it, I decided to just go ahead and get larger tires for easier rolling and more suspension on a lightly inflated tire. He has said they will pick up the bill on that, so we will see.

After the air diverter is in place I think I will be ecstatic with the splitter. It really is a piece of art in the way it is designed, and it's alot more compact and easy enough to maneuver by hand and some of the larger heavier units would be impossible to do the same. I will post photos when I get it finished and painted.

Waylan

Waylan
 
as a temporary fix you could take one of those screw into the ground dog tie-out things, wrap a rope around the side of the splitter that lift and then connect it to the tie down. its red-necky but it would be a good fix if your soil would hold it, until you built a permanent fix....:monkey:
 
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