Newbie - What to do?

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cherring

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Location
Eastern NC
Doing some part-time tree work now that I've retired from my regular job. I've looked at chainsaw mills (Granberg) for casual milling because it seems interesting, but no experience. Reading this forum confirms it's not necessarily as easy as it sounds. Found out yesterday I have a large black walnut that was blown down on my land, so the subject has come back up. The biggest saw I have right now is a Stihl Farm Boss 20" bar, and no mill. Here's a pic of the tree - about 20" in diameter. Guy who tends the land cut it off his fence; you can see a seven foot section he cut at the base lying perpendicular to the first branch.
What do do? Find an experienced mill guy? Invest in a bigger saw and a mill? What's it worth, as is, on the ground?
Thanks for suggestions.
Cliff
 

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Doing some part-time tree work now that I've retired from my regular job. I've looked at chainsaw mills (Granberg) for casual milling because it seems interesting, but no experience. Reading this forum confirms it's not necessarily as easy as it sounds. Found out yesterday I have a large black walnut that was blown down on my land, so the subject has come back up. The biggest saw I have right now is a Stihl Farm Boss 20" bar, and no mill. Here's a pic of the tree - about 20" in diameter. Guy who tends the land cut it off his fence; you can see a seven foot section he cut at the base lying perpendicular to the first branch.
What do do? Find an experienced mill guy? Invest in a bigger saw and a mill? What's it worth, as is, on the ground?
Thanks for suggestions.
Cliff
The angle in the trunk will detract from it's value. A fat straight log is what I seek, tho I mill half fat and other not ideal. To mill that log would cost much more than the wood/ lumber may bring if you lack large enough saw and the other equipment needed to do well. Then the cost of having the rough sawn planks kiln dried and planed. Most of the value in my milling comes from the individual, unique width or size that my mill can produce. See avatar the cannon bar in use is 60" and came a few months after it was ordered. Thursday evening UPS delivered six foot dual saw cannon bar that was ordered late October. With shipping that was about $460.
Milling our own bits is about self sufficiency. We cannot be more efficient money wise than commercial outfits. To come out ahead a fair size woodlot to turn out wood to build our own houses, sheds, barns, other out buildings or special sized beams and posts. This was said not to discourage you from milling, but expectations as to value of one tree are often larger than reality.
I love to see that green wet wood before it starts drying. The look will never be the same. The table top under my arm in avatar will not have those colors again. I enjoy bringing live edge slabs out of logs, commercial Mills are not likely to cut that way for a reasonable cost.
My point of view is mine others will offer other aspects from their experience. Just want you to have fair warning on part of what milling with a chainsaw may entale as I have $3500 or more into two Mills with four saws, bars from 24" to 72" & two reels of chain to turn out what may be required today. I enjoy what I do and look forward to having air dryer lumber in a year or three to make custom wood works.
Welcome hope you enjoy whatever choices you make
 
$3500 would buy ALOT of time for a sawmill... could do 10,000+ bd/ft for that with customer logs.
 
The biggest saw I have right now is a Stihl Farm Boss 20" bar, and no mill

Your FarmBoss saw is either a MS 271 (50cc) or a 290 (56cc), neither of which is all that hefty for milling, but may be do-able for a few slabs of that walnut (though I really wouldn't recommend it). It would be slow and would require you to take breaks often to allow the saw to cool. But before investing further, to get a basic idea of what it takes to mill, try putting your current saw into that tree lengthwise in a 90 degree rip cut (cut sideways into the rings). You don't need to go far, just 6 or 8 inches deep or so, getting fully into the tree. And make sure your chain is sharp. As you'll see, it is a bit different than cross-cutting. And again, don't go too far as you don't want to overheat the saw. To be honest, your saw would be better suited for narrower wood (more in the 8-10" range).

If you had an interest in getting a bigger saw, this may be your chance, and if looking to do milling of trees like that, then you probably shouldn't consider anything smaller than a 70cc class saw (Stihl MS 461, Husky 372, etc), though bigger is always better. A basic Granberg mill will only be a couple hundred bucks and you can do quite a bit with it. You do not need to have a 60" bar, but a 24-28" bar would be a good start.
 
$3500 would buy ALOT of time for a sawmill... could do 10,000+ bd/ft for that with customer logs.
Saw Mills or BSM's can't get the table top under my arm in the avatar. Which is my point. I've acquired over 6 or 7 years that much $ equiptment to be able to get to the site and slice off pieces that are unavailable other wize.
A woodmizer that can slice 3 foot live edge, used wood cost ten times or more my investment, of which a good percentage would come back when I end this part of wood working. Is there a saw mill you know of which would slice live edge slabs. They aren't set up for it, CSM's are from the get go. The specialty cuts are the place for me to get ROI from unusual bits.
Boomer87 & I got together for an impromptu gtg in mouscoutah Ill , he took /posted pic,s on this thread. CSM worked well in that situation, doesn't in others. I've got three pecan slabs that would not be worth pulling a BSM or paying special set up charges to standing mill. I was just sharing what & why I do and have the stuff I use, 046 ms-460 661 and an 066 that I need to replace rings. That is $ I mentioned, another $1500 in bars that allow for the occasional big slice(-;
Your mileage may vary
 
Saw Mills or BSM's can't get the table top under my arm in the avatar. Which is my point. I've acquired over 6 or 7 years that much $ equiptment to be able to get to the site and slice off pieces that are unavailable other wize.
A woodmizer that can slice 3 foot live edge, used wood cost ten times or more my investment, of which a good percentage would come back when I end this part of wood working. Is there a saw mill you know of which would slice live edge slabs. They aren't set up for it, CSM's are from the get go. The specialty cuts are the place for me to get ROI from unusual bits.
Boomer87 & I got together for an impromptu gtg in mouscoutah Ill , he took /posted pic,s on this thread. CSM worked well in that situation, doesn't in others. I've got three pecan slabs that would not be worth pulling a BSM or paying special set up charges to standing mill. I was just sharing what & why I do and have the stuff I use, 046 ms-460 661 and an 066 that I need to replace rings. That is $ I mentioned, another $1500 in bars that allow for the occasional big slice(-;
Your mileage may vary

Sure, we do live edge boards for customers once in a while. Can do about 36" or so on an LT40 Woodmizer. It's not hard to do at all.
Way faster than using a chainsaw and much less waste to sawdust.

Point I was making was about checking locally. Spending ~$100/hr to get logs cut up may be the better choice.
 
Thanks to all who have responded so far. Good advice, much what I expected. I'm still interested in chainsaw milling, but need to recognize my limitations and keep it as a hobby pursuit.
Boogedy_Man, I'm just East of Fayetteville, not sure if you're close. What I may do is try to find someone close by who is willing to come mill it. I don't have a trailer big enough to carry a huge section to a mill.
Might pick up a Granberg or the like at some point and start experimenting on a beginner scale. I also have a long, straight pine that blew down that I haven't cleaned up.
Thanks again to all. More suggestions welcome.
Cliff
 
If you can tinker with a kit or have a buddy that can help, you can keep the budget intact with AM saws and mills. I have $270 in my Huztl 660 + ~$12 for threebond 1184. Holzfforma 36" mills are shipping for $152 and occasionally go on sale for less...mine was $79 delivered. A 42" PowerMatch goes for around $80-$90 if you shop around. Rip chains will run $40 ea and less depending on sales and bulk orders or you can bargain shop regular chain and re-profile to rip for considerably less. My 42" loops cost me a lot less and some labor. My brand new rig totaled $453 ready to cut and slabs max capacity red oak great.

 
@cherring What is your end goal with the wood? Do you woodwork? Or are you wanting to mill this lumber up to sell it?

If you are into Woodworking and have access to more trees and always wanted to try out milling, then yes, this lumber will be worth your investment into a bigger saw and your effort. (even better to just take it to the saw mill, pay $200 and have it done while you wait.)

If you are going to sell the lumber, it will be a wash. Invest in milling it, stacking it, drying it and then trying to sell it. (so many different variables that could eat up your profit, full of nails, twisting when drying, market for buyers)

I CSM because my time and effort will be worth the end result (woodworking lumber). Also I have young kids, so time is flying right now and letting the slabs sit for a year or so is no big deal.

Good Luck and let us know what you end up doing!
 
Boogedy_Man, I'm just East of Fayetteville, not sure if you're close.

I'm a bit far to be practical, unfortunately. I'm closest to Swansboro, so probably 3 hours or so. Not a lot of chainsaw milling happening in these parts.

Wife and I actually closed on a deal today for a Timberking B20, a bobcat loader, woodmizer edger, and some other equipment and inventory. It'll be a few weeks before we're up an operating, but we're surely looking forward to it!


Dan
 
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