Ok..I'll start one. Who has built MS660's using After Market parts??

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

weimedog

Addicted to ArboristSite
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Apr 9, 2004
Messages
5,425
Reaction score
4,708
Location
Central New York
Please tell your story and show some pics or vids....I would be interested in how others have made those blended OEM/AM saws work and see the trials and tribulations...In particular did you have to "tweak" it to make it run as well as you wanted?? My 56mm version really didn't need tweaks...the 54mm's will get some over time...

Also interested in the differences if you used the OEM carbs & ignitions vs. swapping over to AM parts.
 
Why not go to an aftermarket bigbore piston and cylinder,more cc's. I would carefully check the parts first for any little flaws that may need detailing. Be sure all the ports have a good chamfer,if not you must put a good chamfer on them,this is critical for long engine life and no sudden blow-ups. Also if you can find factory(Husky and Stihl) rings of the same diameter and thickness then I would replace the aftermarket rings if possible... Do some careful port mods,modify the muffler,add a second outlet. Then add a freshly rebuilt 064 carb if you can find one,they do not have the governer that tries to flood the engine and limit revs at high speed. As for the 660's ignition I'm not sure if there is a version without a rev limiter that will fit,I'm guessing the old 064 flywheel and ignition probably doesn't fit...I think someone here knows more on that...
 
I am going to have build one of these!!!

I really enjoyed my Chusky build. Going to give it a real workout this weekend.
 
Great video!

Would it be worth trying to add some epoxy to the floor of the exhaust port to eliminate the free port?
 
Great video!

Would it be worth trying to add some epoxy to the floor of the exhaust port to eliminate the free port?

I really don't think its enough on the Farmertec cylinder to matter based on how my saw runs. Because the primary compression is pretty high the bleed off of pressure is just enough to notice at idle. The first one I did was worse than the one in the video...(Nothing like that crap cylinder though!) And as I mentioned, they are strong regardless.. I think just check to see if its not larger than .010 and then enjoy the thing if its not! Not certain epoxy could endure the heat anyway....maybe we could try for chits and grins on that crap "partsangle" cylinder!

HOW does that 372 run??
 
I cut some with it yesterday. Ran about a tank through it cutting up some small blow down. Runs pretty good. Seems to have good power. I noodled a bar length chunk (20") and it pulled great.

I cleaned it up last night and dressed the chain. I'm going to lean it out a little and shoot some video today.
 
I have been wanting to get a Granberg mill.

Would you have any reservations using your 660 clones on a mill? Would you use the standard bore or the big bore?
 
I have been wanting to get a Granberg mill.

Would you have any reservations using your 660 clones on a mill? Would you use the standard bore or the big bore?

Probably would build a 56mm version for milling and no, I wouldn't have any reservations at this point :)


Understand the free port will act like an air leak if its bad enough.....so I fattened up the tune a bit at first. Then set it where the plug said it was happy. I've had enough time to say neither saw gets hot under extended cuts... the 54mm is a safer bet, but for the cost... I'd just go for the 56mm and what's the worst that could happen??
 
Working on uploading Video.

Pulls a 32" full skip! Cuts cookies! Starts great, runs great, didn't blow up!!! I call it a win!
 
Back
Top