Okay, seriously need help getting this old stihl running

[Jesse snowden]

I'm at a loss, got a few hunches, but can't get it running...saw is a stihl 056 av super, electronic ignition

So to date:
Bought the saw for 100 bucks, all beat to ****, burned up cylinder, total loss.
Replaced parts-
Piston
Rings
Rod bearings
Muffler
Spark plug
Rebuilt carb from a shop, was pumping plenty of fuel

Honed the cylinder, it's holding pressure, I think 150 when cold? Can't remember the number, but it doesn't leak.

After the top end rebuild, it wouldn't run for more than 20 minutes. Next, I did the ignition fix that is outlined by foggysail here on the site. Finished the fix yesterday. It ran!!! For about 30 minutes with no bar. Now, after trying to start it today I can't even get a sputter. Fuel is leaking out of the carb, a lot of it. It still gets spark, tested multiple times.

Now my hunches are: either the ignition needs to be advanced/retarded. Or somehow in test firing or reassembly the fuel lines got plugged. Which may explain the fuel pouring out the carb and not even a whisper from the motor.... my brain hurts, any suggestions for troubleshooting?

 

[95custmz]

If the saw was all beat to he**, preventative maintenance was probably not the PO's top priority. I would probably go ahead and replace the fuel lines because if they are not clogged, they are probably brittle or not far from cracking. Cheap fix and if it does not resolve your problem, at least you can check that off the troubleshooting list.

 

[tntatro]

My first 056 would only start with the L needle at 3/4 turn from stop. At a full turn it wouldn't even pop. It also leaked fuel out the carb but I ran it that way for quite a while. It ran awesome otherwise. I later found that the metering lever was too high. After adjusting it, it would start at 1 turn out and the leaking is gone or at least dramatically reduced. I think with the metering lever being hooked on they maybe tend to bend up. Even the new metering levers in kits tend to be high. Probably not the problem you are having but something to check.

 

[BobL]

Have you done a crankcase pressure test.

Its a long shot but if you have a small leak that is temperature sensitive it may not open up until it gets fully warmed up.

 

[Jesse snowden]

My first 056 would only start with the L needle at 3/4 turn from stop. At a full turn it wouldn't even pop. It also leaked fuel out the carb but I ran it that way for quite a while. It ran awesome otherwise. I later found that the metering lever was too high. After adjusting it, it would start at 1 turn out and the leaking is gone or at least dramatically reduced. I think with the metering lever being hooked on they maybe tend to bend up. Even the new metering levers in kits tend to be high. Probably not the problem you are having but something to check.

When you say the L needle, you mean the left of the two adjustment screws on the carb right? I think I'll try that tomorrow. That brings up a good question, how do you (also, everyone) setup a carb for its first run? Do you start really lean and slowly work your way up?

 

[Jesse snowden]

Have you done a crankcase pressure test.

Its a long shot but if you have a small leak that is temperature sensitive it may not open up until it gets fully warmed up.

I have not, nor do I know how! I figured the compression test would be the only real important one. But I suppose crank case leakage would drastically affect the suction for fuel intake. Thanks for the tip bob still getting used to 2 stroke motors as opposed to 4 stroke vehicles. Totally different and so darn cool!

 

[95custmz]

You have an "L" and an "H" screw. "L" is the low adjustment screw.

 

[wombler]

That brings up a good question, how do you (also, everyone) setup a carb for its first run? Do you start really lean and slowly work your way up?

Do whatever the manufacturer suggests. That'll almost certainly get it running, even if really badly, so it can warm up and you can start fiddling. In the case of every Stihl I've ever heard of, standard setting is one turn out from firmly seated on both needles.

 

[DaveLindsay]

If you go to the chain saw forum and then go into the stickies section there is a forum dedicated to 051's through to 076's those guys there rebuild them and tinker with them all the time
Regards DaveL

 

[tntatro]

When you say the L needle, you mean the left of the two adjustment screws on the carb right? I think I'll try that tomorrow. That brings up a good question, how do you (also, everyone) setup a carb for its first run? Do you start really lean and slowly work your way up?

On the 056 the L will be on the right. If you clean all the sawdust off you can see there is an H and L next to each one. If all is how it should be then it should start with the screws one turn out from gently seated on a Tillotson carburetor. If you have a Walbro carburetor then the H has to be turned all the way in (gently seated) and kept there or it won't start. You can try different settings on the carburetor, from half a turn out to a turn and a half. Just don't have it wide open if it starts and is set lean on the H. If you adjust the metering lever then you have to take it out to bend it. If you leave it in you might damage the tip of the inlet needle. The part that is forked should be level with the surface.

 

[christopher allen sutton]

you'r tank could be building up pressure causing the needle valve to stick open so make sure the cap vent is working And when first run a new saw try low (factory one and a half)then open it one quarter more
with the correct mixture of the gas it should smoke a little more than usual now the high as i remember is one turn so go an extra quarter out the idea is to keep everything oiled while breaking it in on a new saw you run these settings for 5 tanks then you lean out (turn to the right) low setting until the when you hit the trigger it reves instantly then the high open saw wide open adjust high in until you get the highest unbroken rpms then back it up till it goes down about 500 rpm always use the stihl oil mix with fuel stabilizer AND NEVER USE ETHANOL (PS.ya'll will like me after ya get to know me)

 

[Jesse snowden]

Well.....as most things like this end up, I believe this....was entirely my fault. Haha I tried messing with all the carb settings and still nothing. Decided to take off the flywheel and check my work on the ignition. A screw had worked its way loose and was stuck to one of the magnets inside the flywheel. I was still getting spark, so I'm hoping putting it all back together with some thread lock will save my ass. Will advise this evening.

 

[Jesse snowden]

I believe the saw is now garbage. You can see the faint rectangular outline of the drive shaft where the key used to be attached. I must have sheered it off while pulling the flywheel. I've spent a total of about 300 dollars now on this saw and all its parts. What to do, what to do...

 

[BlueRider]

one thing that

 

[tntatro]

Use a marker and mark just above the flywheel key on that shoulder before the threads. Then when you put the flywheel back on you can line it up with the key slot in the flywheel. You probably didn't put the flywheel on tight enough. You don't need the key, you just need to line it up correctly and tighten it up enough.

 

[christopher allen sutton]

hey do you cut big trees because the 56 is a man killer so i know you'r not cutting fire wood i got a friend thats got a 66 mag i gave him a 56 2 years ago all it needed was a muffler i'll see if i can get it back i'm not in it for the money so don't worry but i don't know what the shipping will be for a 35+pound saw and if i can get the 66 that would be even better but there isn't a saw that can touch the torque of the 56 i believe.

 

[tntatro]

Or you can give that piece of garbage to me.

 

[BlueRider]

those keys are designed to sheer. you need to dig the rest of the key out of the slot in the drive shaft and out of the slot in the flywheel. it will be difficult because it is galled, which is a fancy word for saying it is smeared so hard that it nearly melted to it. All you need is a new key. Either buy one or use key stock or even brass , but don't be tempted to use something hard like stainless. You want it that to be the week point so you don't break something more expensive to fix.
So yes you were getting a spark but at the wrong point in the stroke. some one suggested lining up the broken parts and using locktite to hold it. It might work but the first time you get a back fire on start up it will spin. Thats probably what did it the first time.

There is an aftermarket remote ignition module that uses the stock triger. This retains the stock timeing and is what I did on my 075. not sure what that is you have .

 

[tntatro]

What ever you do, make sure you put the flywheel on tight enough. Otherwise it will spin again, key or no key.

 

[Jesse snowden]

You gentlemen are the web-MD of chainsaws. After a small meltdown and subsequent heavy breathing through a crazy straw to calm down, I used a hacksaw blade to put a small knick in the shaft tip to line them up. SUCCESS!!!!! Spent an hour cutting rounds and tuning the carb. Keep your fingers crossed for me, the maiden voyage of this saw will be slabbing a 3 foot wide black locust that fell in a yard 6 months ago.