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Old Poulan Oiler Problems

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by BikerBill, Jan 20, 2013.

  1. BikerBill

    BikerBill ArboristSite Lurker

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    I recently purchased ($20) a ~25 year old Craftsman-branded Poulan chainsaw, model number 358.355051. It’s a 2.0 cubic inch 16 inch saw. I rebuilt the carburetor and the engine now runs fine. The chain was on backwards so I fixed that. The oiler doesn’t work, unless you call oiling the bench and not the chain working. The oil leak was due to missing gaskets on either side of the oil pump/oil metering assembly. I fabricated some gaskets from sheet gasket stock and that fixed the leak. But the oiler still didn’t work. After noodling around the internet I realized the oil supply tube from the oil pump was completely missing. So I bought some fuel line and made a replacement. But the oiler still didn’t work. I removed the oil pump body assembly 530010195. I put a hose on the end with the oil metering disk and tried to blow through it—no air flow. I rinsed the oil pump body assembly in throttle body cleaner. Now if I blow hard there’s some airflow but it doesn’t seem likely to be enough. If I suck air from other end (the barbed fitting) it’s better, i.e. I can suck air out of the barb but can’t blow air back into the barb. But that’s not how the “pump” operates. So it seems like that check valve is bad.

    Of course 530010195 is a discontinued part. I searched eBay and found some one way check valves with 1/8” barbs and figured I could replace the failed “pump” with one of them. I would plan to save and use the oil metering disk. But then I ran across a few postings where people say the usual problem with these saws is another check valve, one mounts under the clutch assembly, PN 530069142. That PN is now also discontinued. I haven’t taken that valve out yet. But it doesn’t seem likely I’d be able to make a work around for it.

    So my questions are: Is there some way I can resuscitate or rebuild the 69142 valve? Instead of try to cobble together home brew versions of both check valves am I better off trying to retrofit a manual oiler pump? If I could get a pump that would screw into the oil fill hole that would be pretty simple. Overall, the saw is in very good condition and doesn’t seem to have seen much use. If I can fix the oiling problem I’m sure the saw would fulfill my occasional home owner needs.

    BTW, I assume the function of the 69142 valve is to allow ambient air to flow into the crankcase so oil can flow out? And the function of the 10195 valve is to prevent oil from being sucked back into the crankcase? Is blow-by from around the piston the force that pushes oil to the chain? I am brand new to chain saws so I apologize if these are dopey questions.
     
  2. jammin_with_j

    jammin_with_j ArboristSite Operative

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    You can rebuild these check valves. If you search for "Poulan Micro XXV" in the search function you should be able to bring up threads on this. I bought the duckbill valve online for very little and took a flat file and filed the screen off of the fitting, took a dental pick and removed the old duckbill valve, cleaned the metal housing and put in a new duckbill valve. It took very little time and did not cost much. It solved the problem for me.

    I searched on a common online auction site (e bay) and looked for duckbill valves. The one I used was a homelite branded one (69451), it worked very well and I think I ordered half a dozen or so in case I needed them in the future.

    Its good to take a good look at the air filter in the saw, with the age the air filter could be toast and by running the saw with a degrading filter you could pull crap into the carb. The fuel lines also get hard and dry on these saws, so take a look at that as well.

    Here are some helpful threads I used with my micro xxv;

    http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/120981.htm

    http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/157888.htm
     
  3. bikesandcars

    bikesandcars ArboristSite Operative

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    The pump is a check-valve with the ability to suck from the pump body (through the foam) and out the barbed end to the chain. Sucking on that line should produce air flow, blowing should not.

    The oil tank pressurization check valve allows crank case pressure to pressurize the oil container so the oil goes thorugh the "pump" body and out the tube to the chain. That is a check valve so it pressurizes the chamber and doesn't just move air around ( or suck oil into the crank case).

    I suggest either your pressurization check valve is clogged, or your oil tank has an air leak.

    does that make sense?
     
  4. BikerBill

    BikerBill ArboristSite Lurker

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    Now We're Getting Somewhere!

    Man, I wish I had found this site several weeks earlier--it would have saved me a lot time figuring out the operation of the oiler. You guys are great. I searched as jammin_with_j suggested and found two pages from the factory service manual that explain in detail and with diagrams how the system works and where all the components are located. I never would have found the check valve behind the clutch without it. I was able to remove the tank pressurization check valve without removing the clutch assembly, despite reading that I'd need to do so. Hey, I'm OK with that. I'm able to both blow and suck air through that valve so clearly it's toast. A solvent rinse of the valve didn't fix the problem. Surprisingly I was able to snag a new/old stock valve on eBay!

    The other check valve in the "pump" body seems OK, based on sucking and blowing on the barb. So after I get the tank pressurization check valve installed I'll see if I'm back in business. I'll keep the duckbill rehab process in mind in case I need it. Thanks a bunch for your valuable information.
     
  5. BikerBill

    BikerBill ArboristSite Lurker

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    Oiler Fixed!!

    OK, so I got my new OEM tank pressurization check valve from eBay and installed it. I fired up the power head and for the first time I see oil flowing from the oiler port. As others have commented, oil also continues to flow after you shut the saw off. But opening the oil fill cap relieves the pressure in the oil tank and stops the oil flow. So it looks like I'm in business. Thanks again for the help with this.
     
  6. jammin_with_j

    jammin_with_j ArboristSite Operative

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    I think all of the credit on this one goes to Modifiedmark, he was the person who helped me with my micro xxv. Great to hear you got it working well, the NLA check valves can be hard to come by, next time you might have to rebuild one of your old ones. Good luck
     

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