Old Saws for milling

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sawjunky23

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Looking at buying a portable mill to cut up some lumber for barn stalls, any of you guys have any luck milling with an older saw like a Husky 480 or a Homelite 925? I dont wnat to dump a bunch of money right off the bat, but want something with some cc's for milling
 
The saw is probably the biggest piece of the puzzle. I got a mini mill ordered to hopefuly compliment my McCulloch 10-10s.
 
I don't know much about those models but, when I asked the same question as you a year or so ago, the gurus in the chainsaw post advised against older saws for milling due to parts availability. That being said, I again don't know if parts are readily available for the models you mentioned. I had asked about an 056 I think and they suggested an 066/660 or a 394/395. I had to wait until funds became available but it was worth it I think. Just my experience.
 
925 is 80cc so how big of a mill are you planning on using?
 
Those are two old Homelites. The Super 1050 my Dad bought new back in the early 70's and still runs. The other one is an XL 924 with a 30 in bar and it still runs also. Last year I retired them, not because they weren't holding up their end. I was just ready to try a new saw and had the money. I bought a new Stihl 660 and it works just fine. It's lighter, has a decomp, so it's easier to start than the 1050, and much, much quieter. I guess the biggest thing about the new saw is it's so much smoother, I can really feel the difference in my hands and fingers. The 1050 would kick back and rip your fingers off when starting it. The 924 has a decomp so it's easy to start. I use regular chain because my saws do double duty as working and firewood saws. Make sure the chain is sharp and don't dog it and the old saws will serve you well. The one thing I noticed about the 1050 with 404 chain, is when I hit a nail once, it jumped but you could hardly tell any difference in it cutting. At 5 or 6000 rpm, it only dulled 2 or 3 teeth. When I got a 3 1/2 inch deck screw mixed in with the 3 inch screws I hold my ladder down with, and the 660 hit the one longer screw, it stopped cutting instantly. At 10 or 12000 rpm, it hit every tooth on the chain, Joe.
 
925 is 80cc so how big of a mill are you planning on using?
I am looking at picking up the panther pro. It is listed as a 22" and recomends a 28 inch bar. The biggerst saw I have right now is a Jred 2065. I run a 28 on it occasionaly but I dont think it will hold up milling. My theroy is I would rather have over kill than work the snot out of a smaller saw.
And my 2065 is my go to firewood saw so I hate to blow er up, I'd be hurtin
 
I am looking at picking up the panther pro. It is listed as a 22" and recomends a 28 inch bar. The biggerst saw I have right now is a Jred 2065. I run a 28 on it occasionaly but I dont think it will hold up milling. My theroy is I would rather have over kill than work the snot out of a smaller saw.
And my 2065 is my go to firewood saw so I hate to blow er up, I'd be hurtin
Yeah the 2065 is a little smaller than I would want to use for 20" wide cuts. A dolmar 6400/6421 has a little more torque and can be easily upgraded to a 79cc for $200 or a 84cc for around $100
 
I used a husqvarna 2100 for a couple of years and never had a problem with it. Fast smooth cuts with a 42 inch bar on a 48 inch panther mill. As Grande Dog said easy to refuel and way easier to fill the bar oil than my 3120. I now use it for edging with a logosol timber jig.
 
How many board feet of timber are you thinking about milling?
I know about nothing when it comes to building barns or stalls in them....but I am thinking you're going to need more then four or five boards. That said, maybe getting someone to come over with a portable bandmill might just be a better idea. Or even think about getting a intro-model bandmill for your self. A big saw has a big price tag sometimes....and if they don't have the price tag to go with them, how much money will you need to throw at them while they are getting repaired?

I have milled small amounts of timber with a MS390 and 24" bar. The saw was new, and I was running it with 40:1 instead of the 50:1 called for by Stihl. I only put maybe 15-18 hours of running time on this saw before selling it to get something with a 'little more in the butt'{a Stihl 064}.
I have put many hours on the Stihl 064 w/36" ripping set-up, it is in need of a bunch of TLC now. I just got a Jonsered 2094 'Mastermind porting' done for a better low end milling set-up....the saw was running when it left, but once it was opened up(Randy found a bunch of 'stuff' inside that needed fixing-and fix it he did).

All that said. I use a WoodMizer LT-10 to mill boards and such with.....the saws only mill in a manner to 'whittle them down to useable size' for the bandsaw mill.




Scott (have fun, not more work) B
 
My first mill saw was an 075. Ran it for about a year and switched to an 084 for ease of refueling/oiling in the cut. I really only like to do pretty big stuff so I wanted grunt. I thought the 075 was a good first saw to try out. There are lots of them around and so you can get them relatively cheaply and can get parts for them (mostly used, of course).

I bought 075 on ebay. When I decided to get the 084, I looked around on here. I am glad I did - got a better price and a better saw.

Good luck!
 
If you're going to do a lot of thinner boards a Norwood style mill may be your best bet. The ports ill uses an extension ladder as a frame to ride down. Much quicker than the Alaskan style for making lots of boards.
 
If time is not a concern and your just in it for the enjoyment then any saw close to 100cc will work for you. The best part for me is pulling off the first slab and seeing what is hidden in each log. If chainsaw milling brings you satisfaction and supplies the lumber you need then it's a win no matter the equipment being used.
 
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