Olympyk, Olympic, Oleo Mac, Emak, Efco, Blitz, Folux, Spartan, Spartacus thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hi,

Nearly five years ago I shared some pics of a (re-badged) 264F deluxe project saw that I picked up in Canberra. With the help of a similar model parts saw and new bar and chain it has been resurrected, and I must say it brings a smile to my face as the bar disappears into timber whilst at full song.

There is still a problem however: the flange area above the oiler journal where the bar mounts to the body has suffered damage, so a significant amount of oil leaks from this area - please see pics. would it be possible to lay a weld in the damaged area and then sand it back down to provide a better mating surface for the bar? What about 'JB Weld', I know North Americans love that stuff and use it everywhere, but would it be suitable for this repair?

Cheers.

P.S: Big thanks to eBayer 'frawleyssawshop' for shipping bar and chain to Australia for a fair price. Recommended.

DSC_4392.JPG DSC_4401ed.jpg DSC_4402ed.jpg DSC_4404ed.jpg DSC_4394.JPG DSC_4396.JPG DSC_4397.JPG
 
That's a tough one. You would have to be one heck of a welder to pull that off. I hope you found new chain guide plates.
 
Does anyone know of a source for an air filter for a olympyk 251? Or know a retrofit where I can still used the air filter cover.
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi,

Nearly five years ago I shared some pics of a (re-badged) 264F deluxe project saw that I picked up in Canberra. With the help of a similar model parts saw and new bar and chain it has been resurrected, and I must say it brings a smile to my face as the bar disappears into timber whilst at full song.

There is still a problem however: the flange area above the oiler journal where the bar mounts to the body has suffered damage, so a significant amount of oil leaks from this area - please see pics. would it be possible to lay a weld in the damaged area and then sand it back down to provide a better mating surface for the bar? What about 'JB Weld', I know North Americans love that stuff and use it everywhere, but would it be suitable for this repair?

Cheers.

P.S: Big thanks to eBayer 'frawleyssawshop' for shipping bar and chain to Australia for a fair price. Recommended.

View attachment 545899 View attachment 545903 View attachment 545904 View attachment 545905 View attachment 545900 View attachment 545901 View attachment 545902
that's a compression area,, so I believe jb would work.. but get it scrupously clean,, before you apply the jb. hit with some 80 grit,,for more adhesion strength......
 
easy with tig........

Like I said you would have to be real good with the tungsten. Seems that the weld is always stronger than whet the weld is on. Especially with magnesium. I'm thinking of when guys would try repairing dirt bike engines and cases.
 
I'll try and source some new guide plates, but I'll probably have to get them from the US, that's if I can find them at all. (I just found one on lawnmowerparts for $3.95, but they want $35.99 to shio to Aust) From memory guide plates from similar models of the same vintage fit, so I'll check that out.

Good suggestion on the gasket as well. I've got some gasket paper lying around.

Another option would be to source a crankcase and replace it entirely: last resort if I can't find a competent welder...
 
Does anyone know of a source for an air filter for a olympyk 251? Or know a retrofit where I can still used the air filter cover.
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Brandon,
Do you still have the filter? If so, just re cover with a non organic fabric and hot glue. Did so with no problem. If you dont have the old one then thats a different problem. Just sayin
 
Brandon,
Do you still have the filter? If so, just re cover with a non organic fabric and hot glue. Did so with no problem. If you dont have the old one then thats a different problem. Just sayin

I still have the filter. That is a great idea. Thanks. I may try that. A guy here has a filter but it is a little pricy but not bad. Where could I get this type of fabric. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I went to a fabric store for mine. My criteria was that you could see light (air flow) through it but not see through it. Also, lightweight and non organic. Be sure to clean the flocking out.
Others have used felt
I used hot glue
Might ask again on the ark ok etc forum on another site
Cant hurt trying
 
A yella saw for yella wood. Cub Cadet 5018
13fb9c671c1840f12915e1410864413a.jpg


Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk
 
Hi,

Nearly five years ago I shared some pics of a (re-badged) 264F deluxe project saw that I picked up in Canberra. With the help of a similar model parts saw and new bar and chain it has been resurrected, and I must say it brings a smile to my face as the bar disappears into timber whilst at full song.

There is still a problem however: the flange area above the oiler journal where the bar mounts to the body has suffered damage, so a significant amount of oil leaks from this area - please see pics. would it be possible to lay a weld in the damaged area and then sand it back down to provide a better mating surface for the bar? What about 'JB Weld', I know North Americans love that stuff and use it everywhere, but would it be suitable for this repair?

Cheers.

P.S: Big thanks to eBayer 'frawleyssawshop' for shipping bar and chain to Australia for a fair price. Recommended.

View attachment 545899 View attachment 545903 View attachment 545904 View attachment 545905 View attachment 545900 View attachment 545901 View attachment 545902

I was thinking. I used a Oregon Bar with a Husqvarna 009 mount on my 284. Everything matches up except for the width of the stud slot. I bet a Husqvarna guide plate for a 268, 272.... (Oregon 009 large mount) will work or come real close. There are cheapo aftermarket 2 packs shipped form china for AU 3.10. It may be worth the risk.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2pk-Engi...260161?hash=item33a5e01cc1:g:l7UAAOSwA3dYeLb3

s-l1600.jpg

Here's the actual Husqvarna part # 501444401
s-l1600.jpg
 
Back
Top