Opinions on a 262xp purchase

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Do they make one?
Good question, what I found was after searching Google, was from a place called mymowerparts.com which had a pdf but I just don't see tourque specs on it.
 
Is the torque for the head bolts the same as some other huskys 8-10nm ??
 
So just reassembled and wanted to see where the carb settings were at. The high screw was one full turn out....that's it and the low the same. Now I know why this was burning up.
 
Anyone have a service manual for the 262 that covers my serial #. Trying to get all the tourque setting for the screws and such
The one I found online doesn't have that info.

There is a "universal" 1997 one that covers most Husky models then current (minus the 371xp), but I don't think it lists any torque specs.

Anyway, here it is:
 

Attachments

  • 1997 WS manual.pdf
    3.8 MB · Views: 12
There is a "universal" 1997 one that covers most Husky models then current (minus the 371xp), but I don't think it lists any torque specs.

Anyway, here it is:
Thanks for the manual sawTroll, reading the operating manual on this saw I can't believe they call for adjusting this carb 1 turn out, of course they go on to descr8be 4-cycling and a little more fine tuning procedure but I think whom ever did the replacement on this carb did the one turn got her running and said "I fixed it"
 
One turn out is just the starting point of course, and a very common one.
to get her running. But of course it needs more than one turn and whom ever worked on this in the past didn't fine tune it at all. And was running a lot of oil, because the exhaust port was caked and the muffler had a 32nd of dry build up in it, that literally chipped off. So I think they substituted a richer mix for a richer carb.
 
The basic adjustment on this model is one turn out on both the H and L. It may need a little more (or less) for optimal setting, but "of course it needs more than one turn" is off the mark, as I read that expression.

More oil in the gas actually means the saw will run leaner (not richer), as the will be less gas in the mix (it is displaced by oil). This is a minor factor though, and it doesn't take much change in the carb settings to compensate.

I agree it is likely (from the pics) that this saw have been run with too much and/or sub-standard oil, building excessive carbon. A carbon "flake" that got into the bore may have caused the damage, but we don't really know that.
 
The basic adjustment on this model is one turn out on both the H and L. It may need a little more (or less) for optimal setting, but "of course it needs more than one turn" is off the mark, as I read that expression.

More oil in the gas actually means the saw will run leaner (not richer), as the will be less gas in the mix (it is displaced by oil). This is a minor factor though, and it doesn't take much change in the carb settings to compensate.

I agree it is likely (from the pics) that this saw have been run with too much and/or sub-standard oil, building excessive carbon. A carbon "cake" that got into the bore may have caused the damage, but we don't really know that.
You read me right, lol. I figured for a saw of this size cc's would need more than one turn out. I thought that would be too lean. Another thing you schooled me on is the oil mix. Too much oil would actually make the mix leaner?
 
The size of the saw has little/no bearing on the number of turns in/out of the carb. The carb is sized according to the fuel needs of the saw. Most carbs (as ST mentioned) have a starting point of 1 turn out on the high & low needle. This gets the saw running. It it up to the operator to fine tune/adjust the needles to get the saw to run optimally.
 
You read me right, lol. I figured for a saw of this size cc's would need more than one turn out. I thought that would be too lean. Another thing you schooled me on is the oil mix. Too much oil would actually make the mix leaner?

Yes, the gas to air mix will be leaner with the same carb setting.

This is of course not an issue if you tune the carb properly for each fuel (to oil) mix.
 
So I have this saw all back together and running great. Rechecked the piston after some running and no scoring of any kind, but will recheck again in the future.
So I put the new brake band in and brake handle spring. My question is do these 262s have a lot of rear moment on the brake handle while the brake is deactivated? Seams really sloppy. It works fine, but since it was broken when I got her, I have nothing to compare it to.
 
My 266XP had some play as do my other saws. There is no spring that keeps the handle tight leaning forward.
The handle spring supposed to do that. Mine is working just may increase the lift angle on that spring so it holds it better.
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Didn't want to start a new carb thread unless this goes no where.
On this 262xp it has a Walbro 114a carb.
I read the earlier of these came with an hda-87 and was later "downsized" to an hda-120, thus lowering it's horsepower?
Now is the Hda-144 a replacement for the 87 and giving this newer 262 more hp than it came with out of the box? Not looking to make this a race saw, just wondering g where the 144a fits in.
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Read sawTrolls earlier reply (I meant to put that before my post obviously)
 
The saw was made 1995 week 47. At that price it hardly is possible to make a bad deal on a 262xp that is reasonably complete.

There are 60cc saws with better AV and about the same performance out there today, but it still is the iconic 60cc saw.

The saw isn't old enough to likely have any of the somewhat iconic parts though, like the non decomp KS cylinder, or the HDA-87 carb, it is likely to have the more common decomp MAHLE, and HDA-120. This is how most of them are though.

Of course parts may have been swapped, and MAHLE, KS and Gilardoni all made OEM cylinders for that model.
 
The -144 is the same size as the -120, not as the -87.

Be aware that a larger carb doesn't always mean more power - somewhat simplified, it does only when it its size is the "weakest link" among the parts involved in making power.
It usually helps more on a ported and muffler modded saw, than on a stock one - unless the original was badly undersized (doesn't apply here).

The specs of the 262xp didn't go down when they went from the -87 to the -120.
 
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