jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good question, what I found was after searching Google, was from a place called mymowerparts.com which had a pdf but I just don't see tourque specs on it.Do they make one?
Good question, what I found was after searching Google, was from a place called mymowerparts.com which had a pdf but I just don't see tourque specs on it.Do they make one?
Very rarely does a ring pass the exhaust port floor by much.When you say " rings don't pass that area"
Don't the rings totally pass over both area below and above the exhaust port? Obviously above, I just didn't check how far below (I would but have the piston off already)
Oh, then that's good. Because those marks I was worrying aboutVery rarely does a ring pass the exhaust port floor by much.
Anyone have a service manual for the 262 that covers my serial #. Trying to get all the tourque setting for the screws and such
The one I found online doesn't have that info.
Thanks for the manual sawTroll, reading the operating manual on this saw I can't believe they call for adjusting this carb 1 turn out, of course they go on to descr8be 4-cycling and a little more fine tuning procedure but I think whom ever did the replacement on this carb did the one turn got her running and said "I fixed it"There is a "universal" 1997 one that covers most Husky models then current (minus the 371xp), but I don't think it lists any torque specs.
Anyway, here it is:
to get her running. But of course it needs more than one turn and whom ever worked on this in the past didn't fine tune it at all. And was running a lot of oil, because the exhaust port was caked and the muffler had a 32nd of dry build up in it, that literally chipped off. So I think they substituted a richer mix for a richer carb.One turn out is just the starting point of course, and a very common one.
You read me right, lol. I figured for a saw of this size cc's would need more than one turn out. I thought that would be too lean. Another thing you schooled me on is the oil mix. Too much oil would actually make the mix leaner?The basic adjustment on this model is one turn out on both the H and L. It may need a little more (or less) for optimal setting, but "of course it needs more than one turn" is off the mark, as I read that expression.
More oil in the gas actually means the saw will run leaner (not richer), as the will be less gas in the mix (it is displaced by oil). This is a minor factor though, and it doesn't take much change in the carb settings to compensate.
I agree it is likely (from the pics) that this saw have been run with too much and/or sub-standard oil, building excessive carbon. A carbon "cake" that got into the bore may have caused the damage, but we don't really know that.
You read me right, lol. I figured for a saw of this size cc's would need more than one turn out. I thought that would be too lean. Another thing you schooled me on is the oil mix. Too much oil would actually make the mix leaner?
The handle spring supposed to do that. Mine is working just may increase the lift angle on that spring so it holds it better.My 266XP had some play as do my other saws. There is no spring that keeps the handle tight leaning forward.
The saw was made 1995 week 47. At that price it hardly is possible to make a bad deal on a 262xp that is reasonably complete.
There are 60cc saws with better AV and about the same performance out there today, but it still is the iconic 60cc saw.
The saw isn't old enough to likely have any of the somewhat iconic parts though, like the non decomp KS cylinder, or the HDA-87 carb, it is likely to have the more common decomp MAHLE, and HDA-120. This is how most of them are though.
Of course parts may have been swapped, and MAHLE, KS and Gilardoni all made OEM cylinders for that model.
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