OTC compression gauge off?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

crotchclimber

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Nov 21, 2013
Messages
419
Reaction score
249
Location
Frederick , CO
I tried out my new gauge yesterday and it showed 30psi on a 661 with a scored c&p which sounded about right. Today I tried it on two 200ts with new pistons we got from lone wolf and it was only reading 120psi versus the 160psi on his US Gauge brand. Anyone else had an inaccurate otc gauge? I'm pulling it until it stops going up and it's not leaking since it doesn't go down.
 
I tried out my new gauge yesterday and it showed 30psi on a 661 with a scored c&p which sounded about right. Today I tried it on two 200ts with new pistons we got from lone wolf and it was only reading 120psi versus the 160psi on his US Gauge brand. Anyone else had an inaccurate otc gauge? I'm pulling it until it stops going up and it's not leaking since it doesn't go down.
Put up an online link to your otc gauge model.
 
Like HarleyT says, put up a post to your model OTC.

My humble opinion: OTC tools are usually good and right on. (do not do anything to void the new tool warranty)
We need to know the model because if you got the Automotive compression gauge I won't read correct for chainsaws and small CC engines.

If it's the model for chainsaws and small cc engines, first check the gauge itself and compare it too a 100 psi air compressor. If the gauge reads correctly replace the Schrader valve and try again. (assuming the valve is at the spark plug adapter)
and the spark plug adapter has to be snugged down good (not tight but snug) against the o ring or it will leak around the threads and cause a low reading.

General chainsaw compression gauge info about trying to get a correct read listed below:

Here is a link to some good info about trying to get compression gauges to read correctly on chainsaws and schrader valves to use in the tester. Read all of the pages at this link.


http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/compression-tester-issues.310133/


I got 3 of the Napa 700-9556 compression gauge Schrader valves today after the local NAPA ordered from their warehouse. The come 5 in a box and you can buy them each @ approx. $2.20 each. They worked A-ok. One was defective out of it's sealed package, was not spring loaded on back check due to a broken spring, noticed immediately before attempting install for test. Most NAPA guys will think you are crazy for not just using a tire valve, not realizing they are special valves for a OLD Model NAPA NLA (no longer available) compression gauge

One reason the wimpy schrader valves go bad readily is the spring is so weak that just a small piece of carbon can get in the seal and they won't re-seat fast enough to hold the complete high compression pulse even though they will hold a reading.

Note where I modded some auto tires valves to read correctly by cutting and weaking the spring, but the long modded schrader valves will not fit into some compression gauges fittings. (I just happened to have a pile of the long auto schrader valves in my tire flat fixing stuff was why I tried the mod and was not aware of the NAPA schrader valves at a reasonable price at the time I was building a homemade compression gauge for saws and playing with schrader valve spring pressure so as to get a homemade tester to read the same as my store bought gauge. I now have two different compression gauges that read same and correct. (one tester is homemade using the tips in the above link)

Some of them little special schrader valves are priced around $15 apiece plus shipping.:eek::cry:

I had a guy (auto mechanic) bring me is own Stihl chainsaw, MS290 sometime back that he had put a new piston and cylinder into because his Auto compression gauge was reading low comp and read even lower with the new jug and piston. Saw would not start good or stay running when started. He did not know his auto compression gauge was not being truthful to him.
The saw had a bad carb. He will remember that one for a long time.
 
I tried out my new gauge yesterday and it showed 30psi on a 661 with a scored c&p which sounded about right. Today I tried it on two 200ts with new pistons we got from lone wolf and it was only reading 120psi versus the 160psi on his US Gauge brand. Anyone else had an inaccurate otc gauge? I'm pulling it until it stops going up and it's not leaking since it doesn't go down.
Just checking, what is your sequence for checking compression?

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
 
Like HarleyT says, put up a post to your model OTC.

My humble opinion: OTC tools are usually good and right on. (do not do anything to void the new tool warranty)
We need to know the model because if you got the Automotive compression gauge I won't read correct for chainsaws and small CC engines.

If it's the model for chainsaws and small cc engines, first check the gauge itself and compare it too a 100 psi air compressor. If the gauge reads correctly replace the Schrader valve and try again. (assuming the valve is at the spark plug adapter)
and the spark plug adapter has to be snugged down good (not tight but snug) against the o ring or it will leak around the threads and cause a low reading.

General chainsaw compression gauge info about trying to get a correct read listed below:

Here is a link to some good info about trying to get compression gauges to read correctly on chainsaws and schrader valves to use in the tester. Read all of the pages at this link.


http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/compression-tester-issues.310133/


I got 3 of the Napa 700-9556 compression gauge Schrader valves today after the local NAPA ordered from their warehouse. The come 5 in a box and you can buy them each @ approx. $2.20 each. They worked A-ok. One was defective out of it's sealed package, was not spring loaded on back check due to a broken spring, noticed immediately before attempting install for test. Most NAPA guys will think you are crazy for not just using a tire valve, not realizing they are special valves for a OLD Model NAPA NLA (no longer available) compression gauge

One reason the wimpy schrader valves go bad readily is the spring is so weak that just a small piece of carbon can get in the seal and they won't re-seat fast enough to hold the complete high compression pulse even though they will hold a reading.

Note where I modded some auto tires valves to read correctly by cutting and weaking the spring, but the long modded schrader valves will not fit into some compression gauges fittings. (I just happened to have a pile of the long auto schrader valves in my tire flat fixing stuff was why I tried the mod and was not aware of the NAPA schrader valves at a reasonable price at the time I was building a homemade compression gauge for saws and playing with schrader valve spring pressure so as to get a homemade tester to read the same as my store bought gauge. I now have two different compression gauges that read same and correct. (one tester is homemade using the tips in the above link)

Some of them little special schrader valves are priced around $15 apiece plus shipping.:eek::cry:

I had a guy (auto mechanic) bring me is own Stihl chainsaw, MS290 sometime back that he had put a new piston and cylinder into because his Auto compression gauge was reading low comp and read even lower with the new jug and piston. Saw would not start good or stay running when started. He did not know his auto compression gauge was not being truthful to him.
The saw had a bad carb. He will remember that one for a long time.

Excellent post, @Okie - plenty of good tech here.
 
I. Just use a normal gaug3, same as used on cars. No trouble here. Most says read 120-170.
 
It is the OTC model 5605. So yes it is an automotive one. I didn't know there was a special one needed for small engines. I searched on here which to get and a lot said otc/snap on so that's what I got. Wrong model? Is there an adapter available that will make it accurate? Looks like the problem is in the valve at the end of the hose? Kinda confusing amount of info on this
 
Variables affect the reading, like location of the valve, screw in depth, etc. I never explored it much, as I only give a reading if I am selling a whole saw, and I post a pic of the saw hooked up to the gauge with a current reading.
here is an article I pulled up:

https://www.mullengineering.com/rt/files/2_tech_docs/THE TRUTH ABOUT COMPRESSION TESTING.pdf
Good article. Makes sense that if the hose tip takes up less space than the spark plug in a small volume cylinder it will read low. Probably what is going on. I bought it as a diagnostic tool but I'll have to see what I can do to get it more accurate in chainsaws.
 
I tried out my new gauge yesterday and it showed 30psi on a 661 with a scored c&p which sounded about right. Today I tried it on two 200ts with new pistons we got from lone wolf and it was only reading 120psi versus the 160psi on his US Gauge brand. Anyone else had an inaccurate otc gauge? I'm pulling it until it stops going up and it's not leaking since it doesn't go down.
Your 5000 foot elevation would knock off 15 or 20 lbs for one .
 
Good article. Makes sense that if the hose tip takes up less space than the spark plug in a small volume cylinder it will read low. Probably what is going on. I bought it as a diagnostic tool but I'll have to see what I can do to get it more accurate in chainsaws.
Send me the gauge if you want and I will measure it with 3 other gauges.
 
i need a new compression gauge, what do yall recommend 14mm. i have 10mm stihl. and mac compression test. need something for 2 cycles
 
Automotive gauges work just fine. All the shops i have worked in use either an Snap on or Mac gauges. Check yours against a good working one or with a compressor as posted before.
 
I tried out my new gauge yesterday and it showed 30psi on a 661 with a scored c&p which sounded about right. Today I tried it on two 200ts with new pistons we got from lone wolf and it was only reading 120psi versus the 160psi on his US Gauge brand. Anyone else had an inaccurate otc gauge? I'm pulling it until it stops going up and it's not leaking since it doesn't go down.
I have never seen 30 psi on anything. I have seen 60 as the lowest on a bad seize.
 
And if you think that the location of the valve, size and shape of the fitting, and the little bit of extra space won't make a difference. Put a saw together with no base gasket...........
 
OTC makes the tester for Snap-On from what I read. I suppose you would have to make sure the volume of the test fitting exactly makes the volume of the spark plug it is replacing to be totally accurate. Does Stihl or Husqvarna sell compression testers that match the common plugs?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top