Panther mill II

[Njwoodsman]

After 2 months of waiting I just received my 24 inch panther mill2. I will be using it on my ms660 with a 25 inch b&c. Unfortunately the finish is terrible. The paint is basically melting off of the steel tubing and it has multiple rust spots. It did come with a typed note saying "sorry about the paint". I have not had a chance to mill with it yet. I think I have buyers remorse, after waiting since May for it to arrive it was definitely not what I was expecting fit and finish wise. I'm kicking myself for not getting a granberg

 

[rarefish383]

OH OH, was that brand new, Joe?

 

[Njwoodsman]

Yes it was. Bought it direct from panther pros via his website

 

[BobL]

Some pics would be interesting.

 

[Njwoodsman]

Will try and get some up loaded in the morning

 

[kpantherpro]

hi I am very sorry about the finish, unfortunately at the time we were forced into using a water based finish, until we got things straightened out, add to the mix we we're extremely busy and shorthanded, not a good mix, however those issues have been resolved including lead times of less than a week. I know the finish wasn't that great but I am sure once you used the mill that more than made up for any paint issues. We are striving to become better everyday, I hope that you can overlook the issue and give the mill a fair shot, if you do I think you'll be more than happy.

 

[SDB777]

Sounds like a refund was due.....



Scott (1/2azz stuff sucks, no matter the excuse) B

 

[kimosawboy]

If you waited that long then do yourself a favor and either touch up the paint or break it down and re-paint the entire thing. You dont have to necessarily go out and get some two part epoxy paints. prep it the right way and a couple rattle cans, your good to go.
If Pantherpro guy ever gets some hats or t-shirts maybe he will send some your way. Or better yet you could do some field testing of his prototype stuff!!!!
G Vavra

 

[Venomvpr900]

Sub standard product= lower price. Was the OP's unit cheaper than the ones that now supposedly have the finish problem corrected?

 

[Rudedog]

Sub standard product= lower price. Was the OP's unit cheaper than the ones that now supposedly have the finish problem corrected?

I thought I remembered those being fairly expensive. What about a repaint from Panther??

 

[4x4American]

I second kimosawboy

 

[Lennie]

I ordered my panther pro 2 mill on a sunday not even a month ago and received it in a little over a week with a flawless paint job. I think with any small business they get overloaded and run short of supplies which may be back ordered it self . Panther pro I think did what they had to do to get orders shipped to satisfy the customer. Anyway if your gonna use the mill the paint will get flawed. If it was a gift maybe rattle can it

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

I've had my 42" mill for a while now and really like it. I can understand being a bit turned off by a new one with bad paint but give the mill a try. And the price was very reasonable even shipped from Florida to Hawaii.

 

[Timberframed]

Iv'v had my 60" panthermill for some years now and use it regularly. First thing I did was rattle can it gloss black as it came primed. After time gotta' touch it up now and then as it isn 't allowed to sleep in the house.

 

[Daveman]

I've had a 36 inch model for 3 yrs. good basic mill but needs the following mods:
1-Weld or bolt a bar in the middle and perpendicular to the two bottom rails. This will keep the front end from dropping off the log at the end of the cut. Look at an Alaskan mill and you'll see what I mean.
2. Drill the uprights so that you can put a cross bolt through each to hold your depth setting. Make a spacer block for the depth you want so that the depth stop holes you drillare even/parallel . Use nylon insert nuts so they don't rattle loose. The stock jam bolts will slip if using a saw > 90cc especially an 075/76.
3.Get a couple of inline skate wheels and mount them on the bottom rails in front of where the upright attaches at the power head. This will keep the upright from digging in the log as you mill. Also it is one less axis you have to wrestle as you push the mill down the log.
Other than that it's a bit heavier than the aluminum Alaskan.

Happy milling
Dave

 

[Twindad]

I've had a 36 inch model for 3 yrs. good basic mill but needs the following mods:
1-Weld or bolt a bar in the middle and perpendicular to the two bottom rails. This will keep the front end from dropping off the log at the end of the cut. Look at an Alaskan mill and you'll see what I mean.
2. Drill the uprights so that you can put a cross bolt through each to hold your depth setting. Make a spacer block for the depth you want so that the depth stop holes you drillare even/parallel . Use nylon insert nuts so they don't rattle loose. The stock jam bolts will slip if using a saw > 90cc especially an 075/76.
3.Get a couple of inline skate wheels and mount them on the bottom rails in front of where the upright attaches at the power head. This will keep the upright from digging in the log as you mill. Also it is one less axis you have to wrestle as you push the mill down the log.
Other than that it's a bit heavier than the aluminum Alaskan.

Happy milling
Dave

Great suggestions here, Dave. Could you post a few pictures of your mods?

 

[Daveman]

Fair enough first pic is bottom of mill showing inverted angle iron such that the "v" is pointing down toward the log.

Rollers are offset to allow cutting at an angle - I think that it is easier for the saw and a little quicker. The roller that is further to the left as you view the pic is the leading edge roller, once it contacts log (or tails/board) the saw will pivot until the trailing edge roller makes contact. Inline skate wheels are perfect as they have a oval profile. If you but them make sure you get a pair with bearings in them already.

I would have gotten a closer pic of the angle iron, but am sensitive as to my (lack of) welding skills

 

[Daveman]

Here's a pic of the through bolt to control depth. You should also use a jam nut on the existing bolt to keep it from loosening. I ended up with some funky shaped trapezoidal slabs until I made this mod.

I make no claim as to the originality of the above mods, only the usability. I gleaned them from here and other sites.

Bobl posts have been most informative as to milling info. His progressive raker posts and info have greatly improved my cutting.

Cheers and happy milling
Dave

 

[Twindad]

Thanks. Those are some very helpful mods. I really like the idea of the in-line skate wheel. I've tried to figure out what type of roller would work best.

 

[Daveman]

The inline wheels seem to work best as only a thin portion of the wheel touches the log or rails. The bearings in the wheel help minimize friction as well.

I think I paid less than 10$ for the pair on flea bay. You can orient the wheels so that they are directly across from each other as well - either way wheels are much better than a skid plate which isuch better than nothing.

Happy milling
DS