PILTZ: Master HOT SAW builder (...not)

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Just what is he doing to them to say their HOT saws? Longer bar and bigger dawgs? Is that it?

Oh, do not forget the LARGER RIM DRIVES!

But yah, that's it. Really long 3/8 low profile bars, PS3 full chisel loops, big rim drives, BIG Dawgs, and certain stock Stihl saws.
 
Oh, do not forget the LARGER RIM DRIVES!

But yah, that's it. Really long 3/8 low profile bars, PS3 full chisel loops, big rim drives, BIG Dawgs, and certain stock Stihl saws.
I know nothing about making a hot saw or even rebuilding one, but none of those are going to make a HOT saw. And those huge Dawgs look stupid on a small saw. Guess he figures they might come in handy when that 261 starts cutting giant redwood trees.lol
 
SS, if you like those dawgs on the 261, look at the big dawgs on this 180C. Notice the hand placement on the top handle. Apparently it is best to grip it there on the side to avoid getting in the way of the brake paddle should you experience any kick-back and the bar is heading into your face (not...).



Looks like his mother is there in the background at a safe distance.
 
I know nothing about making a hot saw or even rebuilding one, but none of those are going to make a HOT saw. And those huge Dawgs look stupid on a small saw. Guess he figures they might come in handy when that 261 starts cutting giant redwood trees.lol

All depends on your skewed perception of "Hot Saw". According to him its just a saw that cuts faster than stock. According to him this can be acheived by changing "gears" (i.e. chain pitch, driver teeth # and chisel chain lol!).

And he said clearly, big dawgs prevent kickback. Duh
 
And he said clearly, big dawgs prevent kickback. Duh

Notice that in the 180c video, he is not dawged in at all. So how that prevents kick-back is a mystery that only he can answer. Seems confident enough to not need to have his left hand on the top handle, when it will be needed to set the brake in a kick-back situation. But what do I know.
 
You guys correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't running a bar that's too big for the saw wear it out prematurily? Wouldn't it be hard on the clutch and engine. I would think so.

Yep. All chain speed and no torque on those loops with a larger rim drive puts a lot more torque on the clutch and engine. Those saws will bog like mad and have to be feathered all the time. I bet he edited out a bunch of cuts where he bogs the saws. He used to warn people about doing these kinds of cuts with these saws, but he has since removed them. The large dawgs on a 180 plastic case would also snap the plastic mounts if they were levered on very hard. Same with the bar mounts on a 180 with a long bar.

Basic principles about levers, torque and kickback seem to be lacking in his tiny little brain.
 
You guys correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't running a bar that's too big for the saw wear it out prematurily? Wouldn't it be hard on the clutch and engine. I would think so.

Well according to him his kits ease the strain, what ever that means. This is part of his reply on a youtube video...:
"Hot Rod Kits does ease the strain at any given bar length giving you a longer life saw. Factory length bars for the MS170 are 14 inch or under. We recommend the 16 inch kit for the MS170 but it will run 18 inch. ..."
 
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