Pioneer chainsaws
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p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
My p61 western came with them, and it's a strong runner. I don't have another p61 put together yet to compare it to though. From what I have heard it's supposed to help them not load up at long periods of idling, and a little more top end power.
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
They are the same part numbers, basically the same saw. Those are very strong/cool saws.Would Poulan have used a P45 case to make a PP455? I have one here with this tag
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Old fella gary
New Member
Hi,I am new to this site and have found it very informative.I started selling Pioneer saws in 1968 and I have a lot parts for the older saws.I am in need of an ignition module for a P-41,a very hard item as you all know.I am looking forward to contributing to this site.Thank you.
Welcome aboard.
The tag is usually the last thing put on the saw. Either the case half was swapped out or there may have been a lot of mix and match or model numbers or the tags got messed up,
I have the previous generation, a p-40. Points on this model, wonder if you can swap out and go with points on the 41?
Here are some pictures of the p-40, the saw was in good shape with good compression so I had to go over it and repaint. Found out I need a new oil seal in the pump and my nylon pump gear
is on the worn side. Anybody have a spare they can part with? Part number 430880, or assembly 473947. Will buy it or trade some pioneer 1200a parts for it, also have some Homelite xl1,
xl2, husky 35 parts and various clutches.
Here are some pictures of the p-40, the saw was in good shape with good compression so I had to go over it and repaint. Found out I need a new oil seal in the pump and my nylon pump gear
is on the worn side. Anybody have a spare they can part with? Part number 430880, or assembly 473947. Will buy it or trade some pioneer 1200a parts for it, also have some Homelite xl1,
xl2, husky 35 parts and various clutches.
Check to see if the crank has the lobe for operating the points, some early models did but later ones the lobe was dropped. Pioneer had a habit of using up all old stock parts before starting in on new stock on saws that were a carry over model.
I'm not sure if this will work but there seems to be more than a few P41's out of commission due to ignition failures.
This was posted up a while ago by a member and requires a bit of fabrication but it may work on the P41 as well. I don't know if it will but have a look.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pioneer-p61-no-spark.130254/#post-6018940
It's also worth noting that Hoggwood (Cory) has been messing around with a lot of coils for the Homelite / Pioneer/ Pioneer Partner Prestolite blue coils and found the coil from a 254 Husky to work. Needs a bit of fab to mount it.
Read here to the end of page 526
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/homelite-chainsaws.101147/page-525#post-6101938
Read here to the end of page 526
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/homelite-chainsaws.101147/page-525#post-6101938
p41 has diff coil/module. farmlite, farmsaw have blue coil. haven't looked in my p42 yet. haven't needed to.
openin up more worms... are cranks, flywheels different?
openin up more worms... are cranks, flywheels different?
Hey I just joined this site. I was just given a Pioneer Partner p42. The rings and piston are toast and couldn't find a piston. So Im going to try something that may not work. I ordered a new Poulan Pro 455 cylinder. I read somewhere that it can be installed. What I cant find is a picture of the left side case from a 455 or 655 or something with a boost port to see the differences in the case and what I'll need to modify so I have a smooth transition to the third transfer. Does someone have one they can take a picture of and post it on here. I'll make it work either way but it would be nice to have a starting point. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
hillwilliam
ArboristSite Operative
Welcome to AS!
Anyone is welcome to correct me if I'm wrong, but the 455 top end should bolt right up to the P42 bottom end. It's a different boost port setup from that of a 655BP, though that's not an issue here anyway.
You'll want to find out for sure why the P42 top end fried (vac test/ pressure test). The reed block seal or the reed block itself are, by far, the most likely sources of an air leak on a Pioneer. In fact, that's the only place(s) I've had air leaks in 35 years of running Pioneers. Just my personal experience.
I think you'll enjoy a really cool saw!
It will bolt up. Per the IPL for the 455 it has a matching cutout for the airflow into the third port like the standard 2 transfers. I'm planning on grinding that area out to basically match the cases to the cylinder. I just can't find a picture of the inside of a 455 case to see how it was from the factory
I'm completely rebuilding it. I'm a motorcycle mechanic by trade and I build dozens of 2 stroke race motors for local racers. So all that will be addressed. It looks like it was straight gassed
I'm completely rebuilding it. I'm a motorcycle mechanic by trade and I build dozens of 2 stroke race motors for local racers. So all that will be addressed. It looks like it was straight gassed
Thank you Thank you Thank you. Exactly what I needed. Is there a reason the insides of the cases are painted in the crank pocket? I ask because a painted slick surface is the exact opposite of what you want. Fuel will want to stick to it and hinders atomization. It should be rough around an 80 grit. Just don't know what these cases are made of. Assuming aluminum but I heard magnesium also and I'm not sure how raw magnesium reacts to gas
mathewsdxt75
Arboristsit lurker
Has anyone had any luck making an air filter for a P28 or similar? I need a couple of them. Any pictures on a homemade one I'd be grateful.
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