Ported Husqvarna 372xpw

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Grind the ---- out of it. If it is your stuff do what you want. Goodness, not like your asking what oil to run.

And seriously not a single comment on the greasy cylinder, probably ran HR1 and stuff.

You're right it's his and he's free to do what he want's to it. I was simply trying to give him constrictive criticism, he didn't take kindly to it. :cheers:
 
Grind the ---- out of it. If it is your stuff do what you want. Goodness, not like your asking what oil to run.

And seriously not a single comment on the greasy cylinder, probably ran HR1 and stuff.

I have no idea what was ran through it before, but I will tell you it wasn't good. It's been deep in the woods of southern Douglas county all it's life. Those old school loggers come up with some pretty crude oil. Here's what the piston looked like when I got the saw.
2015-08-09 23.30.40.jpg
It had a huge carbon slug roached to it from bad fuel. I decided to try the mod using this piston since the rings didn't get roached, and the ring lands didn't get scuffed too bad. It ran just fine for testing, so I trusted modding up another good used one and put new oem rings on.
 
No, a faster unrestricted flow vs. a lesser flow from restrictions is the issue.

I'd be very interested to hear info on any experience you have with opening up lowers excessively. I can't find anything with any pics or other information other than the "guess this piston" thread Snelling started a while ago. He had good results with that saw. I don't know how long it held up, but I'm assuming it still cuts.
My next thought is to see if crankcase stuffer cups from the 576 will fit it.

IMG_0797.JPG IMG_0798.JPG IMG_0799.JPG

372 worked for me
 
Wow, just saw this thread, 5 pages already. But it's a good topic : porting, a different recipe than the "norm", a well respected saw... Popcorn!

I think a lot of people have doubts about methods that stray from the norm. Videos showing stock/modded would always help convince people.

Also, a 372xpw is 75cc, lots of torque, and a 24"-28" bar territory saw. If you only need a 20-24" bar get a 60cc saw. Cutting smaller wood like 18" pine will likely be more a factor of chain speed than torque. I think that could be one reason it smoked the 660. Got anything bigger to test that saw with?
 
Wow, just saw this thread, 5 pages already. But it's a good topic : porting, a different recipe than the "norm", a well respected saw... Popcorn!

I think a lot of people have doubts about methods that stray from the norm. Videos showing stock/modded would always help convince people.

Also, a 372xpw is 75cc, lots of torque, and a 24"-28" bar territory saw. If you only need a 20-24" bar get a 60cc saw. Cutting smaller wood like 18" pine will likely be more a factor of chain speed than torque. I think that could be one reason it smoked the 660. Got anything bigger to test that saw with?

I agree. In larger hardwood the 660 would likely be ahead.
 
Wow, just saw this thread, 5 pages already. But it's a good topic : porting, a different recipe than the "norm", a well respected saw... Popcorn!

I think a lot of people have doubts about methods that stray from the norm. Videos showing stock/modded would always help convince people.

Also, a 372xpw is 75cc, lots of torque, and a 24"-28" bar territory saw. If you only need a 20-24" bar get a 60cc saw. Cutting smaller wood like 18" pine will likely be more a factor of chain speed than torque. I think that could be one reason it smoked the 660. Got anything bigger to test that saw with?

Well they're both running 32" bar set ups in 25" hardwood. I don't expect the 372 to keep up with the 660 with a 40" in bigger wood, but who knows, maybe it will. We'll soon find out.
 
Chainsaw Jim, I was refer to the open transfer 42 cylinder wcorey posted as the greasy mess. After you are done grinding the ---- out of the saw go out there and run the ---- out of it, just flog it. In my opinion that is the aspect of the modified build threads that is lacking the most,dedicated saw flogging. Have some fun with it.
 
I applaud what you're doing. For me, there's FAR more satisfaction in building your own saw. Anyone can buy one. Kudos for taking a stab at it. That's how all of us got started. You have to start somewhere.

As far as the windowed piston...The saw I did it on responded favorably, as documented in the thread I did...The one you mentioned earlier. I now get those kinds of gains without the windows. Perhaps I should go back in my personal saw and window the piston again and see how it goes. After all, it only costs <$50 for a new piston.
 
I applaud what you're doing. For me, there's FAR more satisfaction in building your own saw. Anyone can buy one. Kudos for taking a stab at it. That's how all of us got started. You have to start somewhere.

As far as the windowed piston...The saw I did it on responded favorably, as documented in the thread I did...The one you mentioned earlier. I now get those kinds of gains without the windows. Perhaps I should go back in my personal saw and window the piston again and see how it goes. After all, it only costs <$50 for a new piston.

I'm sure this saw has much more potential. There's the option of pop up, the transfer timing hasn't been touched, muffler tuning, maybe the stuffer cup from a 576xp fits it and improves there too.
Maybe decking it will work out too. It's already free ported as it is, so a bit more might not hurt.
 
Porting a saw is fun... even if it's not at it's peak potential, you can say I did it myself... as long as you're happy with it and don't have mad customers, who cares? I started with a Husky L65, which are torquey but dogs at the top end.. After several iterations of porting, it went from being a saw that chugs at 7000 RPM in the cut to 9500.. fellow who tried it (with a not very sharp chain) compared it to a 288... I haven't run one, so what can I say... it sounds optimistic to me. What I can say is that even though it may still have the same amount of torque at the lower end, since it has much less than at the top end it doesn't feel as torquey anymore.. it's also pretty thirsty, but I have aggressive numbers all around on it.

The first porting job was just blending the transfers (closed, bottom fed) and case, and adding about 8* to the exhaust and intake durations, along with a base gasket delete... that really woke it up, really pulled hard, but it's never enough.
Second time around it got a MUCH bigger carb (11/16th bore vs 9/16th), probably another 5* timing on intake and exhaust (pushing 176* now) and a empty muffler.. it screamed, and fell on it's face in the cut, impossible to tune due to massive amounts of intake reversion from excessive timing.... back to the drawing board
3rd time I chopped most of the closed transfer port out, windowed the piston, and did a lot more work on the transfer ports in general, that got rid of the tuning problems since the transfers were now able to flow more, the crankcase emptied out better and thus helped keep the intake flowing in the same direction and it's much better now.. I also reduced the intake by a couple degrees. Now, it runs at 9-10K in the cut, 4 strokes at 12,500 and doesn't fall on it's face anymore.

I'd love to be able to put it on a dyno, as that would tell me exactly where I've gained and where I've lost, and with real numbers. I think I did alright on a saw that used to be 4.5hp@8000 RPM, I figure it's about 6-7hp@9500 now.

Next it's getting a pipe!
 
Here's a thought. The 346, 372, & 390 are all very similar in design. Has anyone ever tried a windowed piston in a 346 or 385/390? Vaguely, I'm wondering of I windowed a 390. If so, it's been too long to remember the details. Maybe someone else can find the thread if I did. I know I've never tried it on a 346.
 
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