Poulan S25DA ignition question

[Modifiedmark]

Hard to say without seeing it or hearing it here in front of me. Lots of variables.

Your compression check bothers me, as your gauge must not be right. It won't even start with only 30lbs compression.

8 out of 10 times your method of checking spark is fine. I use a regular spark tester as it seems sometimes a plug will fire the way you tested it but not have enough spark to fire under compression. The spark tester seems to put a tougher test on the ign.

No offence but , did you rebuild the carb right? Did you get the diaphrams back in the correct order? Did you get the needle's lever set right? Did you clean under the welch plugs?

Just yesterday I wasn't paying attention when putting a kit in a 029 and put the diaphrams in wrong!


Edit, man them other guys are fast and replied while I was still typing!!!

 

[Ganz]

I'm sure I put the carb kit in correctly. I don't know what the welch plug is though. The kit came with a little metal plug in it but I wasn't sure where it went. The saw runs the same after the kit as it did before I put it in. I was going to pick up a new spark plug this week and try that too. I don't think it will help but it's cheap enough.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

it is possible the saw is ok just the fuel it uses could be bad fuel

not saying that just saying been known to happen that water in a fuel tanks at stations

some saws are not met to run on ethanol fuel so if that is what is being used could very well be the culprit

worth checking out anyhow

not saying it is the problem but if everything else checks out ok then its has to be ethonol fuel causing the issue

 

[Dadatwins]

I had a few of those saws that had bad on / off switches also, that would give me fits. The saw would ground out while running. Sometimes give a jolt when turning them off. Check the wiring conecting the switch and try to run it without the switch connected to eliminate that problem.

 

[J.W Younger]

I,ve never messed with a 2stroke with points but a 4stroke with a close point gap will retard spark timing. looking at this anouther way the spark occurs when the points open. a gap diff of 20 deg can change timing several degrees. like I said no experience with 2 strokes.

 

[Ganz]

I,ve never messed with a 2stroke with points but a 4stroke with a close point gap will retard spark timing. looking at this anouther way the spark occurs when the points open. a gap diff of 20 deg can change timing several degrees. like I said no experience with 2 strokes.

Are you saying if my points are not gapped correctly it could cause this problem?

 

[thomas72]

Did you pull the welch plugs out of the carb? Since it has points I would clean those and set them to factory specs then replace the condencer as well. Also look and make sure the reed valve does not have in obstructions in it holding it open that is a common problem with those type of poulans. If you need the gap # for the points I can look that up for you if you want.

 

[Ganz]

Did you pull the welch plugs out of the carb? Since it has points I would clean those and set them to factory specs then replace the condencer as well. Also look and make sure the reed valve does not have in obstructions in it holding it open that is a common problem with those type of poulans. If you need the gap # for the points I can look that up for you if you want.

What are the welch plugs?

Points, condensor, new. Haven't checked the gap on them since I installed them. Reed valve, done

 

[Modifiedmark]

The welch plug is the little metal plug that came in the kit, that you said you didnt know what it was. Kinda touchy to change.

The point gap is .015 if I remember right. It should say on the points cover.

 

[Ganz]

The welch plug is the little metal plug that came in the kit, that you said you didnt know what it was. Kinda touchy to change.

So what the best way to change it? I still have and can take the carb apart again. Do I just pry it out of there?

 

[Modifiedmark]

I hate to answer this question. You have to be real carefull and most time it don't have to be changed.

There's small holes in the carb under the welch plug that can be plugged up which is why you have to remove the plug to clean it out.

I'm not real good at explaining it.

Did you do another compression test with another gauge yet?

 

[Ganz]

Did you do another compression test with another gauge yet?

No worries bro, I'm hoping to get the compression checked again this weekend I'll get back to you after my findings. Just trying to find out as much as possible.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

No worries bro, I'm hoping to get the compression checked again this weekend I'll get back to you after my findings. Just trying to find out as much as possible.

ganz i notice this thread stopped have u ever got her running ?

 

[Ganz]

Thanks for asking, but no I don't have it running yet.
This winter has been so long and cold I haven't felt like going out and working on it. Today we finally had a nice day and I was out in the garage. I put a spark tester on it and the spark seems to be sporadic. You can definately tell it's not sparking consistantly. So I plan on looking at it in the next few weeks if the weather stays nice. I was going to check the gap on the points and maybe I'll switch the coil out with the other saw I have. Still haven't gotten the compression checked yet, need to do that too. I just got frustrated with it and threw it on the shelf for a while. I'm sure I'll be back with questions.

Thanks again for checking in.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

ok thanks
calvin

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Are you saying if my points are not gapped correctly it could cause this problem?

Yes, on my micro XXV, if the points aren't gapped right the saw is a bear to start at best; most of the time it will not even run if the points are off. The good news is they are usually good for years once you replace them. I've also got two S25DA's that have the points in them and one S25DA that has the EI, I'm not 100% convinced, but I think the points saws are easier to start when everything is right. I've had stupid things cause any of them to give me fits though; anything from bad plugs, bad on/off switches, bad fuel cap vents to the fuel filters falling off in the tank (right after replacing the fuel line & filter!). Good luck, they're great little saws when they're right, I have a residential heat & air man that has been using them for years to cut out his houses, says he just can't get used to the newer saws.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yes, on my micro XXV, if the points aren't gapped right the saw is a bear to start at best; most of the time it will not even run if the points are off. The good news is they are usually good for years once you replace them. I've also got two S25DA's that have the points in them and one S25DA that has the EI, I'm not 100% convinced, but I think the points saws are easier to start when everything is right. I've had stupid things cause any of them to give me fits though; anything from bad plugs, bad on/off switches, bad fuel cap vents to the fuel filters falling off in the tank (right after replacing the fuel line & filter!). Good luck, they're great little saws when they're right, I have a residential heat & air man that has been using them for years to cut out his houses, says he just can't get used to the newer saws.

I agree that a properly working point ign seems to start easier. Seems they spark better at lower rpms