Nik's Poulan Thread

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For you weekend wood warriors that do a decent amount of cutting for firewood, how many of you wear chaps or protective pants when you cut and what do you wear and what works well?
I just got a pair last year, I wouldn't cut with out them now.
A good friend of my Dad cuts on a county crew. Last year he showed me a pair that one his guys were wearing. That made up my mind up for me.

Thanks, Brian
 
Fellows,

I am hoping to put my s25da together this weekend with new rings etc. I am looking for anything to be careful with in regard to the oil pump and check valve - particularly cleaning/soaking of the valve/pump etc. I am well versed with the 3400-4000 series but not with this one.

As for rings, there are no locating pins. How are we staggering the gaps?

Thanks - Cory
 
For you weekend wood warriors that do a decent amount of cutting for firewood, how many of you wear chaps or protective pants when you cut and what do you wear and what works well?

I wear chaps about 70% of the time, or less. :( I try to anyway. Sometimes its just to dang hot, or I just don't do it.
I found a pair of Poulan Pro labeled chaps on ebay number of years ago. Figured if I was gonna wear chaps, might as well say Poulan on them.

Years ago I had a mishap, and sliced through a pair of Carhart insulated bibs I was wearing. Right across the left thigh & knee area. Cut clean though them, but was LUCKY and didn't even scratch my jeans underneath.

4000Ash007.jpg


Gregg,
 
I just got a pair last year, I wouldn't cut with out them now.
A good friend of my Dad cuts on a county crew. Last year he showed me a pair that one his guys were wearing. That made up my mind up for me.

Thanks, Brian

What kind did you get Brian, I have no experience with them. Sherrill Tree is what ChipsFlyin uses do you have the same? Anything to look for when buying some?
 
I just went and got a pair of Husqvarna ones at my local dealer. There not anything great but I figured anything was better then nothing. I do need to get a pair of suspenders because they do pull on my pants.

Thanks, Brian
 
Do some research. Various styles and levels of protection are available for different uses..., with widely varying prices.

I have a pair of full wrap Labonvilles I got from Bailey's a couple years ago in a promo deal with no shipping for around $65. Serious chaps, but a bit of overkill for my general cutting use. I'd use them more if they were apron chaps.
 
Do some research. Various styles and levels of protection are available for different uses..., with widely varying prices.

I have a pair of full wrap Labonvilles I got from Bailey's a couple years ago in a promo deal with no shipping for around $65. Serious chaps, but a bit of overkill for my general cutting use. I'd use them more if they were apron chaps.

Yeah I would wear them maybe once a weekend during the summer so they don't need to be top of the line by any means.
 
What kind did you get Brian, I have no experience with them. Sherrill Tree is what ChipsFlyin uses do you have the same? Anything to look for when buying some?
I only have Sherrill Tree cause they were an exceptional deal at the flea market and fit my need for what I do. There are several styles and brands that are around $100 or less. The most important thing is that they meet ASTM F 1897-2008 requirements. "ASTM F 1897-2008 standards require that a pair of chaps have the ability to stop a chainsaw turning at 2,750 feet per minute without penetrating the innermost layer of the chaps." (OSHA standard)
 
I only have Sherrill Tree cause they were an exceptional deal at the flea market and fit my need for what I do. There are several styles and brands that are around $100 or less. The most important thing is that they meet ASTM F 1897-2008 requirements. "ASTM F 1897-2008 standards require that a pair of chaps have the ability to stop a chainsaw turning at 2,750 feet per minute without penetrating the innermost layer of the chaps." (OSHA standard)

Thanks Mark, good to know. Maybe I'll post something on the Trading Post, somebody might have some to get rid of.
 
Fellows,

I am hoping to put my s25da together this weekend with new rings etc. I am looking for anything to be careful with in regard to the oil pump and check valve - particularly cleaning/soaking of the valve/pump etc. I am well versed with the 3400-4000 series but not with this one.

As for rings, there are no locating pins. How are we staggering the gaps?

Thanks - Cory

Only thing different to note is that you won't pass a pressure test during your build without plugging the oil pump impulse hole -OR- you can glue the gasket to the diaphragm on the hole edge -OR- the best & permanent fix is to cut a slot in the cap and JB weld a metal bridge in. There was a good post on that not too long ago.

Did you go with new 1-1/2" Otto Maytag washing machine piston rings?

No need to position the end gaps in the cylinder, just stagger them 180 degrees from each other to start, as there is no keeper pin as you well noted. Just like the old Lawnboy mowers.

I just finished a fifth S25DA saw rebuild with the metal strip JB welded in, and it works great. Now I need to go back and rework the other oiler caps....
 
Believe me when I say, I'm far from being the chief of the safety police. I do wear a hard hat, although it is plastic. When ever I am felling trees. Yes, I got bonked on the head once back in 2008. Dead limb caught me while just wearing just a ball cap. Thought the lights were gonna go out for a while there, but didn't.

So old dogs can learn new tricks, or learn to be safer. :dizzy: I have always worn gloves while working in the wood. I don't generally wear hearing protection except when milling, or at a GTG when your running a bunch of loud saws.
Matter of fact the main reason I bought a pair of chaps, was that at some GTG's, folks will make it mandatory, or at least prefer you wear them. I can understand that.

Not only do chaps offer the obvious added protection from your saw chain. They work pretty well in the brush and briers also. LOL I don't know if all chaps are the same, i suppose they are. Mine are black, and they do get hot in warm weather.

Gregg,
 
Only thing different to note is that you won't pass a pressure test during your build without plugging the oil pump impulse hole -OR- you can glue the gasket to the diaphragm on the hole edge -OR- the best & permanent fix is to cut a slot in the cap and JB weld a metal bridge in. There was a good post on that not too long ago.

Did you go with new 1-1/2" Otto Maytag washing machine piston rings?

No need to position the end gaps in the cylinder, just stagger them 180 degrees from each other to start, as there is no keeper pin as you well noted. Just like the old Lawnboy mowers.

I just finished a fifth S25DA saw rebuild with the metal strip JB welded in, and it works great. Now I need to go back and rework the other oiler caps....

I will have to search for that post as I am definately not up to speed on these pumps. I gather they passed air to the atmosphere readily? Weird.
I have never heard of Otto rings. I went via The Greek. I am hoping they work out.
 
Believe me when I say, I'm far from being the chief of the safety police. I do wear a hard hat, although it is plastic. When ever I am felling trees. Yes, I got bonked on the head once back in 2008. Dead limb caught me while just wearing just a ball cap. Thought the lights were gonna go out for a while there, but didn't.

So old dogs can learn new tricks, or learn to be safer. :dizzy: I have always worn gloves while working in the wood. I don't generally wear hearing protection except when milling, or at a GTG when your running a bunch of loud saws.
Matter of fact the main reason I bought a pair of chaps, was that at some GTG's, folks will make it mandatory, or at least prefer you wear them. I can understand that.

Not only do chaps offer the obvious added protection from your saw chain. They work pretty well in the brush and briers also. LOL I don't know if all chaps are the same, i suppose they are. Mine are black, and they do get hot in warm weather.

Gregg,

Good stuff Gregg!
 
First weird thing with the oil pump on the s25da... Service manual dated 1984 shows the diaphragm gasket against the body, then the diaphragm then the cover. This one had never been cracked and had the diaphragm against the body, then the gasket and cover. Bassakwards from the factory to what the manual states. I can see how the diaphram is getting pulled into the impulse channel in the top cover in spite of the gasket bridging the channel somewhat.

At this point I will do the opposite of what the manual states for reinstallation and keep it as is :dizzy:. I did trowel some Motoseal on to level the the indentation in the gasket as well as to the back of the diaphragm prior to setting it on the gasket.

New rings went in fine and jug is seated in Motoseal for the evening.
 
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