Nik's Poulan Thread

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I have done business with Lil Red Barn in the past, ordered some clutch drums for the large McCulloch saws. They did notify me they were out of stock, had to find a new supplier, and eventually I received my parts. I was in no hurry so not a big deal.

I recently pull the fuel tank out of my 3400, I removed the stop switch and wire which seemed to help quite a bit. I found I had to poke and pry to get the stop wire back in place once the tank was reinstalled but it did tuck nicely out of the way so I don't expect any rubbing on the flywheel.

Mark
 
Honestly it should just twist out with a little finesse once switch is out, cap is off,

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
 
This is a comparison showing differences in Oem Piston # 28338 and Lil Red replacement Piston. The Piston pin end Chamfered on Oem, Piston pin bosses are built up a little more ,appear to be stronger on Oem, thicker rings, circlips, Piston wall is a little thicker, Piston is pinned and ring ends are cupped on LiL Red piston.
The Piston fits easily upon installation with a little heat applied to Piston Top Dome, no problem installalling.
You see in the Pic l got the Piston turned around now.
 

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I've never seen one with the pins lined up like that; all of the pinned rings I've work with were offset anywhere from 45 to 120°.

Curious...

Mark
The other Oem Piston is same design only with the thin rings Butt end type, Lil Red followed same Poulan design but thicker ring.
Maybe other members can help answer why Poulan stacked the alignment Pins this way.
 
Ok, need a lil help on this. Trying to pull my fuel tank on my 3400 and can't seem to make it move but one ince. What's y'all guys handyman secret weapon besides duck tape? When I put the tank in a few years back it just slide right in with no problem. Tank is clean all around and don't see what could be binding it in place.

Steve
Like others mentioned ,removing the kill switch wire helps. I use a screw driver to pry it up. However be careful you don't pierce the tank.
 
I'm pulling everything on it this time. Last time I put a good used cylinder and new lil red barn piston kit in and pressured tested and vacc tested. Splitting case this time, starting to leak oil. Will also install a new cotter pin. Will probably paint before assembling it to, just have to seal off the holes paint don't need to be in.

Steve
 
Other case I stripped off all the parts to build this on had a bad lower rod bearing, one roller got to the top of the piston and wasn't pretty. Saw would start and run but had a knocking noise, piston was hitting crankshaft on bottom center stroke.

Steve
 
While tearing it down for a good cleanup I noticed oil leaking from seam in the tank, probably the reason the shop put the spot of red paint on it. Guess they didn't want to go to the trouble of splitting the case to fix it.

As long as I was this far, I decided to press the bearings and seals out, quite a lot of stuff packed in there too.

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I got everything cleaned up.

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I was looking through another XXV IPL and saw there was no case gasket (this one had one when I took it apart) so I started putting it back together using Threebond but when I got it together the crankshaft would not rotate, evidently a gasket is actually needed.

So Poulan fans, I am looking for an IPL for the Deluxe Super 25, intake gasket, cylinder gasket, and the crankcase gasket. Need a set of rings as well, not sure if it was like that when I took it apart or if I managed to chip a bit of one end of the bottom ring but I will put a new set in while I'm at it.

Mark
 
I picked up a set of rings for my s25da from Otto Engine Works http://www.ringspacers.com/rangcast.htm. They are the Maytag washer rings - they come in a set of 6, 4 of which will work for the 1 1/2" 38cc. Randy (hotshot) put me on to them.

Those oil pumps diaphragms can be rebuilt. The pump cover can be modified as well to help alleviate sealing issues with the crankcase. @hotshot has it down pat.
 
I picked up a set of rings for my s25da from Otto Engine Works http://www.ringspacers.com/rangcast.htm. They are the Maytag washer rings - they come in a set of 6, 4 of which will work for the 1 1/2" 38cc. Randy (hotshot) put me on to them.

Those oil pumps diaphragms can be rebuilt. The pump cover can be modified as well to help alleviate sealing issues with the crankcase. @hotshot has it down pat.

Hey Cory!

Mark,
The Otto rings are from a Maytag model 72 twin cylinder, and a true 1/16" thick & 1.50" diameter. Don't buy the Greek's S25DA rings, as they are metric 1.5mm & so they are already 0.005" too thin. Wished that peckerhead would have put that info in his Caber ad...

Check Poulan's or Jacks Small websites first, as believe it or not some gaskets, rod end needle bearings, & the crank seals are still available.

Crank side bearings are standard Koyo/Timken bh98. IPLs are available on either of tbe above websites too.

There's single gaskets & even a CC/cyl base/intake gasket set on Fleabay too.
 
While tearing it down for a good cleanup I noticed oil leaking from seam in the tank, probably the reason the shop put the spot of red paint on it. Guess they didn't want to go to the trouble of splitting the case to fix it.

As long as I was this far, I decided to press the bearings and seals out, quite a lot of stuff packed in there too.

View attachment 567892

I got everything cleaned up.

View attachment 567893

View attachment 567894

I was looking through another XXV IPL and saw there was no case gasket (this one had one when I took it apart) so I started putting it back together using Threebond but when I got it together the crankshaft would not rotate, evidently a gasket is actually needed.

So Poulan fans, I am looking for an IPL for the Deluxe Super 25, intake gasket, cylinder gasket, and the crankcase gasket. Need a set of rings as well, not sure if it was like that when I took it apart or if I managed to chip a bit of one end of the bottom ring but I will put a new set in while I'm at it.

Mark


With compression like that, you really don't need rings. Seals are OEM 530019051 SKF 5510 National/Timken 313156.

Here is the PDF with scans of all the gaskets, just print them out at 100 percent and you have templetes for cutting out gaskets.
 

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Had to flush cut a couple stumps the other day. A 5200 dose a good job with it. I used a 32" bar and full sequence 75DP semi chisel chain. I hand sharpened the chain before I went and got half way through setting the rakers when I noticed I had grabbed the .030 raker gauge instead of the .025 that was needed.

The 5200 didn't give a S***. Pulled handfulls of chips out in a hurry. 100_0672 (Custom).JPG
 
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