My dad has done that a few times, i always say "Didn't take you long to look at that".
Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I cut up a bunch of cookies today for the wife's endeavors from 6" up to 14" and used my souped up 2600. It was having some oiler issues but I think I got that fixed, mostly just plugged up but it still seems to want to plug up the oiler slot in the bar too easy.
I'll tell you this, this ported little bastard will not run when set to 4 stroke like we're used to doing, it likes it on the lean side. It is still keeping the plug light brown so thats fine, I put the tach on it as it sounded fast, it was bumping 13,800 with just a hint of 4 stroking. Running 20LPX chain, its a small wood demon.
I'll tell you this, this ported little bastard will not run when set to 4 stroke like we're used to doing, it likes it on the lean side. It is still keeping the plug light brown so thats fine, I put the tach on it as it sounded fast, it was bumping 13,800 with just a hint of 4 stroking. Running 20LPX chain, its a small wood demon.
Please say you're running it alittle rich on oil.
Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Hey guys, anyone know off hand what diameter fuel line a 2300 takes? Popped the top cover off the new to me saw and the fuel line was rock hard and actually pulled away from the nipple on the carb.
Poured a little gas in the carb and it roared to life instantly. Going to be a nice little saw when I swap the 16" bar for a 12".
Poured a little gas in the carb and it roared to life instantly. Going to be a nice little saw when I swap the 16" bar for a 12".
Running the same as always for all saws...
About 40-1
I used to run 50-1 in everything and would still, but found the 40-1 better on my mind for the antiques.
Either 3/32 or 1/8" ID by 3/16 OD on the 2300 line. I prefer the 3/32 as it will not kink as easy.
Thank you!
Yeah I like short bars.
I'd be interested in even a couple 12 and/or 14" bars in 041 pattern.
I have been working on this saw. Poulan 505 and I needed a gas tank for it so I used a 2083.
Eliminated the base gasket. Squish is now around .028"
Finger ports.
Cleaned up all other ports and matched the muffler to the port.
Muffler modded.
Advanced the timing.
Unlimited coil from a Husky 55.
Plugged the de-comp.
Taching out right now with 28" bar and chain no load 13,800 and still 4 stroking.
It does not look like much but it gets with the program. Put a smile on my face.
Thanks to Jer. Johnson for the worm gear on the oiler. A hard item to find.
First pic is with the 2 cycle mix in the crankcase to look for any leaks at the seals. I let it sit for about 4 hours and would randomly turn the crank to a different positon. The Jeremiah Johnson tip.
Finger ports. 
Eliminated the base gasket. Squish is now around .028"
Finger ports.
Cleaned up all other ports and matched the muffler to the port.
Muffler modded.
Advanced the timing.
Unlimited coil from a Husky 55.
Plugged the de-comp.
Taching out right now with 28" bar and chain no load 13,800 and still 4 stroking.
It does not look like much but it gets with the program. Put a smile on my face.
Thanks to Jer. Johnson for the worm gear on the oiler. A hard item to find.
First pic is with the 2 cycle mix in the crankcase to look for any leaks at the seals. I let it sit for about 4 hours and would randomly turn the crank to a different positon. The Jeremiah Johnson tip.
Finger ports.
When putting the 505 together I did not notice the crank shaft had 2 slots cut into it for the fly wheel key. So as luck would have it I got it on 180* out of timing. When I first tried to start it I got a flame and backfire through the muffler. Because I had advanced the timing I thought maybe I had sheared the key at first so that is when I took the fly wheel off to discover 2 slots. I think someone else ran into this before but I forgot about it.
They are all good runners. I will have to get out to another GTG next year and bring the 5 saw plan out with me. You would get a kick out of the lastest 505.
Why would you plug the decomp? Those saws have fragile plastic recoil pulleys that are NLA now days..
I even converted the non decomp 475's I had to decomp for that reason.
Well when I modify a saw like this one I always plug the demomp. . I never use them on the saws that still have them which is most of them.
Just personal preference. I think everything on these saws are now NLA and you make a good point and something to consider. Easy enough to put a decomp back in but then would I use it.
That's genius!
Neat idea, but is the equivalent to only doing a very low pressure test of the seals..., as in atmospheric. A vac test may still suck air through the same seals..., and a lot of other places when the cylinder and intake assembly are in place. But the case and bearings would be nice and clean!
This is something I agree with. That test with oil is only good for a drastic leak which would only happen with a screw up when putting new seals in anyway.
I used to be the same way but have taught myself to use them on the few saws that I have that do have them. Most the time anyway. LOL
I have had to replace those broken plastic pulleys before on those so I think about those...
When you think about it, there is a lot of fragile in the whole on those saws..
Similar threads
