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Cuttin to live, livin to cut
Love the old iron. Thanks for all the info fellas!
Power Products Thread....any and all info welcome.
- Thread starter wigglesworth
- Start date
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cpr: That ain't no leaf blower. Sound like a real chainsaw.
Power Products carb. needs help.
Thanks to you all for guidence I got the Wards Powr Kraft/Hoffco 480 running after a fashon.
Major problem is with the carb.. If I open the H jet screw even a 1/4 turn off the seat, it blubbers and 4 strokes and won't accelerate at all. If I have it closed or nearly so it will respond to the trigger somewhat but lacks any real power. The L jet screw is open about 1 turn.
I cleaned the carb. body in Chem Dip and then in lacquer thinner. Blew all the passages I found with Gumout. Needle and seat looked OK so I just put a new diaphram in as the old one was like a pane of glass. I didn't see anything that looked like welsh plugs.
Did I miss something?
Would a bad spark plug act like this? I cleaned and set the points and now have a good fat spark.
Thanks to you all for guidence I got the Wards Powr Kraft/Hoffco 480 running after a fashon.
Major problem is with the carb.. If I open the H jet screw even a 1/4 turn off the seat, it blubbers and 4 strokes and won't accelerate at all. If I have it closed or nearly so it will respond to the trigger somewhat but lacks any real power. The L jet screw is open about 1 turn.
I cleaned the carb. body in Chem Dip and then in lacquer thinner. Blew all the passages I found with Gumout. Needle and seat looked OK so I just put a new diaphram in as the old one was like a pane of glass. I didn't see anything that looked like welsh plugs.
Did I miss something?
Would a bad spark plug act like this? I cleaned and set the points and now have a good fat spark.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Love that Silver King Randy.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Thanks cpr, that was a gift from an old friend as was the big Lancaster.
The AH58 is a Power Bee, thinkin' on upgrading the intake.
The AH58 is a Power Bee, thinkin' on upgrading the intake.
Is the little rubber valve seat washer in position down inside the brass seat housing? It's pretty tiny.
Is the inlet needle spring there?
Is the metering diaphragm installed so that the rivet on the diaphragm contacts the stem of the needle?
The metering diaphragm gasket goes between the diaphragm and the carburetor body on some models and, on other models, the diaphragm goes between the carburetor body and the metering diaphragm gasket. If the sequence is wrong, then the height will be off. If you aren't sure, get the Tecumseh model # off of the carb. I've got a couple of old Tecumseh manuals & I can try to see if I can (A) Find the carb. (B) Check the diaphragm/gasket sequence for you.
Dang nab it, you're quick. I deleted the post when I found the problem.
That's exactly what was missing. That tiny little pup didn't show his face untill I had both new and old brass 'seat housings' next to each other.
Dark outside or I'd try to run him.
Thanks
Carl.
Wards Powr Kraft runs and cuts.
Fired him up this morning after getting the needle/seat thing fixed last night. I have the L needle open about a 1/4 turn and the H needle closed. Somewhere in the scan Mr. Bow Saw posted got my attention about a drilled passage on some Techumseh carbs and starting with both needles closed.
That passage may need to be a tad smaller as he goes in and out of four stroking while cutting. If you maintain the right amount of pressure on the bar you can get him to run clean.
The vibes are really strong and you watch the bar whip back and forth while cutting.
What a hoot!
View attachment 211894
Fired him up this morning after getting the needle/seat thing fixed last night. I have the L needle open about a 1/4 turn and the H needle closed. Somewhere in the scan Mr. Bow Saw posted got my attention about a drilled passage on some Techumseh carbs and starting with both needles closed.
That passage may need to be a tad smaller as he goes in and out of four stroking while cutting. If you maintain the right amount of pressure on the bar you can get him to run clean.
The vibes are really strong and you watch the bar whip back and forth while cutting.
What a hoot!
View attachment 211894
David Bradley, Looking for information.
I picked up this nice old David Bradley Gear Reduction saw. Model # 917.60005 at an Auction Yesterday.
The saw looks to be in great condition, and had not been sitting long. I plan on tearing it down, cleaning it up, get it running, and put a nice coat of paint on to make a Good show saw.
The problem is, I normally only work on Remingtons, and I would like to have some more information on this before I start working on it. Any information you could give me on rebuilding this saw would be a great help. IPL's, Service Manuals, or some personal experience would be awesome.
Thanks
DFF110
I picked up this nice old David Bradley Gear Reduction saw. Model # 917.60005 at an Auction Yesterday.
The saw looks to be in great condition, and had not been sitting long. I plan on tearing it down, cleaning it up, get it running, and put a nice coat of paint on to make a Good show saw.
The problem is, I normally only work on Remingtons, and I would like to have some more information on this before I start working on it. Any information you could give me on rebuilding this saw would be a great help. IPL's, Service Manuals, or some personal experience would be awesome.
Thanks
DFF110
little possum
Crash and Burn
Check the piston through the exhaust port, clean the points, install a carb kit most likely, and off to the races you go! But expect to be there all day 
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Visually inspect, don't rely on the comp tester. I got discouraged when a new p & c blew 95 psi... Then I found out that was new spec.
Also, don't overtighten the jug, they're notorious for breaking the ears, especially the 8.1.
Also, don't overtighten the jug, they're notorious for breaking the ears, especially the 8.1.
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These old saws are amazing. I got out the David Bradley again today. Put some fresh gas in, and opened up the fuel shut-off. (Which is hard to find, and isn't labeled at all)
With-in 10 pulls it was up and running again, had to adjust the carb to get it to run smooth. Chain was still sharp and it tore through a nice oak log like it was butter. It is amazing what you can get at a sale for $25.
This is the first Gear Redution saw I have owned, and I'm unsure about final tuning for the carb. I have always been under the assumption that gear reduction saws should always spin at a lower rpm, and have a lot of tourqe to really dig into a log, and just chew through.
Can anyone give me some insight on this. I don' t want to lean it out too much, run too fast, and ruin the saw.
Thanks
Dustin
With-in 10 pulls it was up and running again, had to adjust the carb to get it to run smooth. Chain was still sharp and it tore through a nice oak log like it was butter. It is amazing what you can get at a sale for $25.
This is the first Gear Redution saw I have owned, and I'm unsure about final tuning for the carb. I have always been under the assumption that gear reduction saws should always spin at a lower rpm, and have a lot of tourqe to really dig into a log, and just chew through.
Can anyone give me some insight on this. I don' t want to lean it out too much, run too fast, and ruin the saw.
Thanks
Dustin
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Tune it like a regular vintage saw, it should 4 stroke out of the cut and clean up at WOT. They need to be tuned while working or you will be way lean.
The myth that gear-drives rev slow is a hang over from the early 1950s.
Get your mitts on a late 60s or early '70s McCulloch or Homelite, they rev pretty good and have a feel of power you will not get with any other saw. The 87cc Mac 660 can buck 8 foot logs all day long and you won't get drowsy doing it. The 6-7 cube models pull heavy chain on a 72" bar with little effort.
Keep in mind that a gear-drive will continue cutting in a bind long after a direct-drive would have stalled, often resulting with the saw walking out of the kerf, with surprising speed and force. Never have any part of your body in line with a chainsaw, any chainsaw, however a hit from a 40+ pound alloy torpedo can cause considerable damage. We aren't talking about mere cuts here, shattered bones and internal injuries can result.
The myth that gear-drives rev slow is a hang over from the early 1950s.
Get your mitts on a late 60s or early '70s McCulloch or Homelite, they rev pretty good and have a feel of power you will not get with any other saw. The 87cc Mac 660 can buck 8 foot logs all day long and you won't get drowsy doing it. The 6-7 cube models pull heavy chain on a 72" bar with little effort.
Keep in mind that a gear-drive will continue cutting in a bind long after a direct-drive would have stalled, often resulting with the saw walking out of the kerf, with surprising speed and force. Never have any part of your body in line with a chainsaw, any chainsaw, however a hit from a 40+ pound alloy torpedo can cause considerable damage. We aren't talking about mere cuts here, shattered bones and internal injuries can result.
My Lombard F-54, AH-47 engine. It's a runner, but needs the carb gone through. I have new rings I was going to put in but read on here the compression on these is fairly low to start with, so I haven't done it yet.
I'm trying to fix an old Bolens 3600 gear drive for a friend and it is missing the starter. It is an AH47 PP with a clockwise Fairbanks- Morse starter. The saw runs fine but starting it with a rope wraped around the starter cup is not optimal. If anyone has one they would like to sell or trade please let me know.
I got one off evilbay just to salvage the starter dog engagement bits. I now have a leftover cover, pulley and spring if you need that much. AH480 engine. Look at lawnmower parts also.
They are reversible by the way.
